Whistle??

[Rivet]

I've had a starting issue with my 2.8TGV for years....it started just before I began rebuilding the 110 5 years ago. It doesn't start instantly anymore (engine only has 1k) and takes minutes to start. Sometimes this requires bleeding the system in various ways.

I noticed that when I hand-prime the system at the filter housing, there is a soft whistle coming from around the IP. Is it normal to hear something while priming? I'm guessing if air is coming out, then surely air is getting in right?

 

[chris snell]

You shouldn't be hearing a whistle at the IP. It might be helpful to find a section of hose (cut an old garden hose or something) and use that as a stethoscope to identify exactly where the whistle is coming from.

You're definitely getting air in the system. Air can ingress through lots of places. I've never seen an IP leak personally so I can't comment on that but to rule out everything else, you should check all of your fittings from the fuel tank forward. Also highly recommend a 12V fuel pump placed inline after your fuel tank. It won't solve your leak issue but will make it trivial to bleed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATX-E8012S

Also, is your lift pump working well?

For a second, I thought your post was about this:

<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:75.0%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Nnzw_i4YmKk?ecver=2" width="480" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>

 

[Rivet]

You shouldn't be hearing a whistle at the IP. It might be helpful to find a section of hose (cut an old garden hose or something) and use that as a stethoscope to identify exactly where the whistle is coming from.

You're definitely getting air in the system. Air can ingress through lots of places. I've never seen an IP leak personally so I can't comment on that but to rule out everything else, you should check all of your fittings from the fuel tank forward. Also highly recommend a 12V fuel pump placed inline after your fuel tank. It won't solve your leak issue but will make it trivial to bleed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATX-E8012S

Also, is your lift pump working well?

For a second, I thought your post was about this:

<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:75.0%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Nnzw_i4YmKk?ecver=2" width="480" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>

Wooo wooooooh haha. I've been trying to narrow down the location of the whistle/leak with hose, pvc and little strips of tissue...no luck yet. I'll start tightening hoses and fittings. I called M&D engineering and they confirmed the only whistle should be from the turbo lol. I can't wait to get this fixed. Any other tricks out there in finding an air leak?

 

[chris snell]

Try spraying some very soapy water on the IP and all hose fittings and look for bubbles.

 

[Rivet]

Man I dousted the IP with soapy water and spent a good hour trying to find a leak at all angles. Got some gnarly round circles on my palms from the fuel primer. I think I'll have to take it to a local shop and have them diagnose. F?&$!

 

[chris snell]

Before you spend the money on that, install a 12V pump inline. You won't have to pump the lift pump anymore, priming will be easy, and I think it actually makes the motor run better when it has a 100% solid fuel supply at all times.

 

[Rivet]

Before you spend the money on that, install a 12V pump inline. You won't have to pump the lift pump anymore, priming will be easy, and I think it actually makes the motor run better when it has a 100% solid fuel supply at all times.

Where is everyone tapping into the ignition? I've been kicking this around.

 

[chris snell]

I added an extra fuse to the fuse box on bulkhead behind the tunnel and shifter. I located an ignition-hot line and cut the spade end off that line and put the cut-and-stripped end of that wire plus a little jumper wire into a fresh spade connector and reconnected it. The jumper wire ran to the next slot over in the fuse box and through a 5A fuse. From there, I ran a wire to a relay in my battery box. The relay powers a Blue Sea fuse panel, which powers the pump and anything else needing switched 12V. I could have just gone from the relay directly to the pump, however. You could even go directly from the bulkhead fuse box to the pump but I wouldn't advise it. Always better to use a relay.

 

[Rivet]

Much appreciated man! In the meantime I picked up a $4 automotive stethoscope and think I've narrowed down the "whistle." I'm thinking it's these screws, but they won't tighten anymore.