Trekworks Products

erover82

Well-known member
Throughout building the 90, I repeatedly searched for products that I found did not exist. As a result, I developed many of the ideas into finished products. So many hours were poured into designing and making the ideas come alive that I realized it would be a shame not to share them. Perhaps if I found utility from them, others would too. Today I am launching Trekworks, a brand and online retail store with two inaugural products and more on the way.


Because this would not have happened without NAS-ROW, and because @javelinadave threatened me, NAS-ROW members receive a 10% discount with the promo code: NASROWROCKS




Product #1 - Trekworks True 3000K H4 LED Bulbs

I try to think ahead when working on a project, and with the 90 I knew I'd want a good solution for lighting. Holley offers their 7" LED lamps which are nice, but are very expensive and have Holley-branded plastic lenses. LED bulbs on Amazon/eBay produce blueish or greenish light that IMHO looks out of place, and often come with obnoxiously huge heatsinks, fans, and ridiculous/insulting brightness claims.

What about the driver who already has high quality glass lenses headlights, non-round/rectangular headlights (e.g. classic Porsche), or headlights that are simply in good condition? It's a shame to throw them away, and yet halogen bulbs have their disadvantages too. Halogen bulbs produce a pleasant beam in a warm color temperature that is ideal for human night vision, but quickly loose brightness, burn out, consume too much power, create too much heat, and place too much strain on electrical systems (think Defender headlamp switches).

If only there were an LED bulb that we could just plug in and go, with all the benefits of LED technology, and none of the drawbacks. And so, after months of work, the Trekworks True 3000K LED bulbs were born. Initially they are available in H4 size, but more sizes are in the works. Please enjoy and see the site for more details.

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Product #2 - Land Rover Crankshaft & Differential Holding Tool

At one point in the 90 project, I needed to torque the crankshaft bolt to its proper 250 ft lb, but found that I didn't have an elegant way to hold the crankshaft in place to do so. Existing tools were either very expensive, unavailable, huge, or all the above. I also found that when working on differentials and transfer cases I similarly didn't have a good way to hold driveshaft flanges. Soon after, I realized it would be possible to design a tool that could accomplish both tasks, be relatively compact to store, and be less expensive. Thus, the idea for the dual-purpose Crankshaft & Differential Holding Tool was born.

The tool has two bolt patterns, one for each task. It accepts 1/2 drive breaker bars and is made of nickel-plated chromoly tool steel for corrosion resistance and durability. Like a Defender, it is a functional tool, and while the edges are nicely machined smooth, no time was wasted in hiding machining marks. If I make one for working on modern Range Rovers, it'll be smooth and shiny, come in a black case, and cost a lot more. Please see the site for more details.

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Z.G

Well-known member
Having seen the products in person(we’ll be retailing some of them soon), you can purchase with 100% confidence that it’ll exceed expectations. That doesn’t really need to be explained to anyone that follows his build thread
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I love custom tools that make the job easier! Nice design on the crankshaft differential holding tool.
 

LRNAD90

Well-known member
The 'Trekworks True 3000K H4 LED Bulbs' are interesting, but is it really possible to do an 'H4' LED that works correctly with the housing and produces as good a beam pattern without glare? And what is the actual light output? Are they equivalent to a standard 60/50w H4? 100/80w H4?

Maybe reach out to Andrew on the other board and have him add to his comparison thread?
 

blueboy

Well-known member
has high quality glass lenses headlights
Really like this idea as currently have Hella e-Code lens on the RRC and while the light pattern is great, the output with the standard halogen bulb not so much. This could be a nice solution. Best of luck with the business.
 

erover82

Well-known member
The 'Trekworks True 3000K H4 LED Bulbs' are interesting, but is it really possible to do an 'H4' LED that works correctly with the housing and produces as good a beam pattern without glare? And what is the actual light output?

Those were the primary questions when considering if it was possible to produce a good solution. One of my goals is to provide more photos of beam comparisons. Until then here is a summary of the findings. Compared to halogen bulbs in identical housings, the beam pattern is very close, but not identical. However, after comparing both halogen and LED bulbs in different housings, the the halogen-LED deviation in identical housings is within the range of variation between halogen bulbs in different housings. Comparing oncoming views of housings with both bulbs, and moving side to side, there is only a slight difference in angle where light intensity increases perceptibly. As with any lamp, the greatest factor is ensuring they are aimed correctly.

While testing these in multiple vehicles over the winter months, not only observing their performance, but paying extra attention to the headlights of other motorists as well, it dawned on me how the mainstreet reality of automotive lighting juxtaposed the product testing process. Here I was spending late nights out agonizing over beam patterns while testing in multiple vehicles, with multiple housings, taking endless photos with careful exposure settings, and all the meanwhile I'm being blinded by brand new cars with quad-LED retina-roasters, lifted trucks with no subsequent downward beam adjustment, and Honda civics with eBay 120w neon-yellow bulbs. Put in perspective, the slight deviation from a perfect beam pattern was not significant in real world testing, and was certainly no reason to abandon the effort when overall the bulbs performed great.

As for luminous intensity, when compared to halogen bulbs in their best-case scenario: where they have not yet lost up to 20% of initial intensity over their relatively short lifespan, and also not accounting for halogen intensity loss due to high-current draw induced voltage drop in real-world automotive wiring, the LED bulbs are subjectively identical or slightly brighter. Compared to halogen bulbs in less ideal conditions, the LEDs of course perform more competitively. That said, buy the Holley RetroBrights if you want maximum luminous intensity. However, they draw up to 15w (both products are thermally regulated) more power each to do so and also do not project a beam pattern which meets the most stringent of standards.

Luminous flux comparison (low/high):
Hella H4 60/50w - 1650 / 1000
Trekworks 3000K H4 LED - 2118 / 1718
Holley RetroBright 3000K - 3000 / 2000

For additional data please see the integrating sphere test report:

Maybe reach out to Andrew on the other board and have him add to his comparison thread?

Great idea, thanks.
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Wasn't sure if I should put this in the Unboxing Swag Thread or bump Trekworks. In my experience great custom products aren't always available when you want them.
Couple of my favorite upgrades for my 110 are the Psyoptic Development Sliders by madcowdungbeetle (the most unforgettable name ever!) & the aluminum front grill by Tiktaalik - Both NLA until Carter & Jon can be convinced to make more. Since we're talking about NLA products - I now have the previously unavailable Differential Lock Warning MTC 5227 (Thanks Eric!) & a compact Crankshaft/Differential Holding Tool. You can be envious or order your own.

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erover82

Well-known member

NLA for decades, reproduction fuse box differential lock warning plates are now available in both early and late designs!
(MTC5227 and BTR0179)

No expense (or time) was spared in the reproduction of these. Original samples were carefully measured and scanned with each character, period, and comma painstakingly mapped for utmost accuracy. The original screen printing process using Pantone-matched inks on black-anodized aluminum plate was also replicated. Even the proper factory soft-alloy aluminum rivets, and additional backing washers (highly recommended), were sourced to safely secure the new plates. See link above for more photos and details.


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