Top of door not closing all the way

[roverrange]

Any suggestions on getting the door to close tighter to the gasket? Is it as simple as bending it in or will I risk damaging it?

 

[javelinadave]

You can loosen the window studs and add some weatherstripping to the outside edge of the door. When you retighten the window studs it will make the window tilt inwards. A bit of trial and error and it will eventually close nicely.

 

[chuckc4]

I would NOT try to bend it. From the pic it looks like you have a door top and bottom set up. There are two studs that are threaded on both ends, that screw into each door top. The studs go through a tube in the door bottom and the nut attaches a few inches below the door top, thus tighten the door top to the door bottom. It is less complicated than my written description... Check out this link for a drawing: http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/91

You may need a new gasket between the door top and bottom to get the angle correct for the door to seal along the top. The door top bolts are possibly seized in the tubes, or the threads are seized in the door tops, or the nuts are seized on the end that goes through the doors, or all of the above.

Soak everything in liquid wrench for a few days and hopefully you will at least get the studs out without snapping them. I would suggest stainless studs when you replace everything.

If I am wrong about the two piece doors, then please disregard. Good luck!

 

[roverrange]

Yes only the top is not closing all the way so it is probably an issue with the gasket between the two pieces. Will give that a shot. And definitely will replace all hardware with stainless as I go along. Any suggestions for reasonably priced ss hardwware? Thanks

 

[nas90tdi]

This is fairly common on the military door tops. As Dave suggested, trial and error with some addl. shims or weatherstripping at outside edge. And, yes, it could very well be siezed in there. It is a giant pain in the ass getting snapped door studs out of the window , so be patient and keep putting the PB Blaster or similar to them.

 

[roverrange]

As i get into taking this truck apart and start repairing things, any suggestions on tool sets i am going to need?

 

[chris snell]

The stainless steel options for door top studs just suck right now. The good ones were made by a company called Gulf Coast Rovers, which is no longer in business. They milled flats down the side of the stud so that water could pass through the holes instead of pooling. Atlantic British sells some studs but they are total crap. Mine rusted impossibly to my doors in a couple of months and I damned near destroyed the door getting the tops off.

Dan Chapman was talking about having some GCR knock-offs manufactured. I don't know if he ever got anywhere with that.

 

[roverrange]

If i get specifications on them I could have some machined

 

[javelinadave]

As i get into taking this truck apart and start repairing things, any suggestions on tool sets i am going to need?

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-216pc-mechanics-tool-set/p-00902157000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11
$108
I would also get a set of metric wrenches and a decent volt meter and you should be well on your way to self sufficiency.

 

[chris snell]

As i get into taking this truck apart and start repairing things, any suggestions on tool sets i am going to need?

The best tool set is made iteratively over time. I buy a specialized tool or two with most major projects I do on my truck, to build my set up.

For starters:

• Metric open+box-end combination wrenches, 10mm-19mm
• A pair (2) of open+box-end combination wrenches, 9/16"
• Metric sockets, 10mm - 19mm, shallow, 1/2" drive
• A good 1/2" drive ratchet, about 10-12" (and a longer one, too, if you can)
• A 1/4" drive ratchet
• Metric sockets, 7mm-15mm, shallow, 1/4" drive
• Some 1/4" drive extensions
• 27mm and 30mm impact sockets, 1/2" drive
• 1/2" drive breaker bar or really big ratchet
• Dead-blow hammer
• Medium-sized brass hammer
• Brass drift, roughly 1/2" x 6"
• Various punches, including a center punch
• A hub socket like this
• A fish scale, for doing swivel balls
• A set of Pozidriv screwdrivers (Nearly all of the screws on your truck are Pozidriv. Please use one of these screwdrivers instead of a Phillips!)
• A set of metric feeler gauges (for 300Tdi valve adjustment and possibly other motors)
• A small hacksaw
• Vice grips
• Diagonal cutters
• Needlenose pliers
• Multimeter
• A can of brake parts cleaner on hand
• Kroil, PB Blaster, or Oil of Wintergreen for soaking stuck fasteners

Also nice to have:

• 1/2" drive torque wrench, 20-200lb-f range ideally
• Seal puller/hooks
• Magnets of various sizes, including little tiny ones that you can put inside a rubber glove fingertip to hold a fastener
• A good vise
• A motorized grinder wheel
• A drill
• A MAPP gas torch for removing stubborn fasteners
• Set of bolt extractors (Watch some Youtube videos to learn how to use them before you get one stuck in a fastener forever)
• Bucket Boss tool rolls for your wrenches and ratchets
• TEKTON socket holders (seriously, don't waste your time with any of the others)

 

[Josh-man]

Super common issue as others have said. My experience was to soak the hell out of the nuts and studs with PB BLaster for a bunch of days, and it allowed me to unbolt the door tops and then soak the studs for a couple more days to got them out without worry. I ordered a stainless set from either Atlantic British or RN- and also the seal that goes between the door top and bottom. I couldn't believe how much thicker the new seal was compared to what possibly could have been original from MOD. As others suggested, a new seal will realign things much better. I did actually do some slight bending which helped.

Another suggestion is if the seal doesnt come with adhesive, you will want to stick the seal to the window/top section of the door- that way, if you run with the doors half off, you wont have weird weatherstripping flopping around.