Door waist seals

[Tbaumer]

I seem to be paralyzing myself with research.
I have the oddball doors with roll up windows, but before exterior push button handles (1986).
Looking to order new front door waist seals (before removing my existing), I check my Land Rover parts catalog for part # and now I'm confused ;

Land Rover parts catalog shows waist seals #MTC8473 (inner) & #MTC8474 (outer).
Seems easy enough, but it also shows a waist capping #MUC3928 (RH) & #MUC3929 (LH) that I am unsure of because I don't see it on my door.

I went online and found the original seals superseded to another part #, but available !
I haven't located waist capping online yet, NLA where I checked, but I'm not sure I need it. Although my outer seals do seem to be two separate parts...

I turned to my Rovers North catalog & see waist seals W/O waist capping (except for a NAS soft top door).

Pretty sure I can start removing to find my answer, but I was hoping to leave it together until I have the new parts.

 

[DefendersNW]

There are exterior and interior waist seals - the exterior is the rubber lip to keep water out, the inner is the felt faced rubber bit to keep the glass from contacting the horizontal frame.

 

[Tbaumer]

So the waist capping (#9 in one of the diagrams) is not for my style door?
Is the outer waist seal a single piece?
It looks like two pieces - especially when I look at the rear door seal also.
They both have an upper horizontal rubber and a lower. When I separated it to see if it was all one piece, the brittle rubber just breaks off, so I can't tell.

 

[CDN38]

it's all a 1 piece part for the outer seal. (newer style)

ALR5980 from the fronts

ARL5982 rear right

ALR5981 left rear

...if I am not mistaken

 

[Tbaumer]

I went ahead and took it apart to see it is indeed one piece.
Too much research before ordering replacements made a simple thing seem complicated.
Sometimes it's better to just dive in.
Found out that, while my door insides look good, the felt runner that goes around the window is rusted out.
Time to order more parts!

 

[rocky]

Dont lose any! Your style of door is made of unobtanium.

 

[CDN38]

You are going to need to dis-assemble the whole door, and remove the glass. Probably end up destroying the black plastic filler pieces around the window opening when you remove the rotted channel.

 

[Tbaumer]

I'm pulling a bunch of part numbers together for the front & back doors.
I'll add the plastic filler and division pieces to my order.

 

[DefendersNW]

I'm pulling a bunch of part numbers together for the front & back doors.
I'll add the plastic filler and division pieces to my order.

If you are patient and lucky, all the screws will come out and the fillers will survive. Driving off the screw heads is a viable alterative.

Get a #1 phillips and drag it along the inner window channel to find all the screws.

Should have everything you need on the shelf if you run into problems.

 

[LostChord]

Did you ever get your doors back together? Any special tips for the waist seal removal/install?

 

[Tbaumer]

All my door seals have been replaced with new, except the seal between the door and the body.
The waist seals (inner & outer) are simple press on. I removed some rust that I found under the outer waist seal, then treated it with POR15.
I also added a small amount of clear silicone at the corners between the outer waist seals and the filler channels.
Adding sound proofing to the inside of the door skin, new seals, window channels and fasteners, leaves my doors closing with a rattle free satisfying clunk.