DIY frame swap?

burlsube

Well-known member
I'm looking to start saving/gathering/preparing for a frame swap on my 110 soonish. I had originally just planned on have a local shop do it, but I was wondering if folks thought it was possible to do in the a driveway. I am reasonably technical and have most tools, although I dont have a welder, a lift or . For me doing the swap myself means that I can keep the truck. I'm willing to put in the time. Initially My thought was to park the frame next to the 110 and just move things over in a slow methodical fashion. My concern is that I'm going to bite off more than I can handle. Has any one had similar experiences?
 

donb

Well-known member
Depending on what shape your suspension, brakes and axles are you could make a rolling chassis first and then move the powerplant and body panels over. You could install all new suspension bushings and bearing/brakes in the axles which will help it feel new when done. Also having a rolling chassis is easier to move things around.
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
A frame and engine swap was my first Rover project, totally doable. You really only need a hoist for the motor etc.

Agreed on building a rolling chassis first, even if you put junk axles under the current truck so that you never have an immobile hulk. That also means you can rebuild your original axles before putting them under a new chassis.

A lot of misc items will add up though, there are just so many bushings and things that you don’t really re-use. Plan for that.
 

donb

Well-known member
A frame and engine swap was my first Rover project, totally doable. You really only need a hoist for the motor etc.

Agreed on building a rolling chassis first, even if you put junk axles under the current truck so that you never have an immobile hulk. That also means you can rebuild your original axles before putting them under a new chassis.

A lot of misc items will add up though, there are just so many bushings and things that you don’t really re-use. Plan for that.

Even with a 110 he could get donor axle and suspension parts easy enough where he wouldn't even have to touch the primary vehicle. It would be a great time to convert to rear disks, new brake and fuel lines and like said before the bushings/bearings. The roller could be done as you have time and you can keep driving your current vehicle.

I would do something like this:

- build roller chassis - can be done at your leasure
- swap engine and drivetrain - easy install as the frame is movable and open - probably a few days
- like Doug said swap the body as one piece - a day depending on hoist/rigging needed.
 

burlsube

Well-known member
Thanks.
I like the idea of the rolling chassis.

Is any one aware of a write up on the process? I'm not sure I could rig something up to move the body as I dont have garage or anything capable. There are so many crunchy areas on the body I'm not even confident it could make the move.
 

donb

Well-known member
Thanks.
I like the idea of the rolling chassis.

Is any one aware of a write up on the process? I'm not sure I could rig something up to move the body as I dont have garage or anything capable. There are so many crunchy areas on the body I'm not even confident it could make the move.

How is the bulkhead? And is it RHD?
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
we have done a bunch outside with 4x4's and blocks of wood and cinderblocks and land rover hydraulic jacks back before we had a 12k forklift and the lift in the shop. Body is only bolted to frame in a few places and if done without engine and trans in frame doesnt need to be lifted much @ all. We used to put the engine in after, when doing it that way.
 

chuckc4

Well-known member
Initially My thought was to park the frame next to the 110 and just move things over in a slow methodical fashion.

If you have the space to work side by side the job will be easier, more than doubly so if you pull a good, ready to go roller next to the original donor vehicle.
 

Brrrrt

Member
I did it on my 90 in my 2 car garage with concrete blocks, pieces of wood, 2 pieces of electrical super strut, and 4 bottle jacks. Was quite easy actually, but I did end up replacing a ton “while I was there”...wiring harness, brake lines, hardware, bushings, etc.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
When they say lifting the body it's not like many foot. I did mine by lifting it up and placing a cinder block under each wheel. And used scaffold sections on the sides with 4x4's thru the door openings and Rachel straps taking the weight, note remove doors. The body is not all that heavy once you un-load stuff. When the body is secured and all the mounting bolts/screws etc, take the wheels off lower chassis and drag that suckered out backwards. Remember to take out the rad and front panels & gear lever stuff. Good luck on your quest. Just take your time.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Many ways to do one.
We remove nothing, and keep doors closed (keeps things aligned) and pick them up from underneath which has the added advantage of lowering your lift point keeping things more stable.
 
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