1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

Engine is rebuilt. Found a kit on Ebay for the ISF motors which are built in the same factory. A full rebuild kit with crank, pistons, sleeves, valves, springs, bearings, gaskets, etc was only around $1500. I am reusing my original pistons (new ones are smaller to fit the sleeves), but did change out all 4 connecting rods. all clearances looked within spec and overall, its a very easy engine to work on. I will put more details in another thread.

I installed the aluminum oil pan yesterday and have plenty of room above my axle. But I'm also running 14 inch coilovers and 37 inch tires. The real pain is the new dipstick and that it doesn't seem to fit anywhere decent. I built a small bracket to try and give it more stability, but any feedback on how you routed the new dipstick tube is appreciated. The whole tube is shorter than stock and I put it almsot directly up, snaking by the starter. The oil capacity jumps from 5 quarts to 9+ quarts. I am also looking at installing an real oil pressure gauge. The Murphy gauge is simply 44psi if it senses any oil pressure, not very useful.
 
This is what quickserve shows the metal oil pan and dipstick configuration looks like. Will this help your configuration? Need any of these part numbers for brackets etc? There are other configurations for the metal oil pan I think as well.
Dipstick metal oil pan.png

Metal Pan parts.png
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
For the manual oil pressure, I used the port right behind the oil cooler:
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You may also note that I twisted off the warning stud on the sender. Ooops. I have the wire in place for the next time I change the oil at which time I will change the sender---which sucks because I just changed the oil and I totally forgot to do that. I should tie the new sender to one of the jugs of oil as a reminder....which I think I will actually do...

The dip stick is a bit short, I agree. I don't mind where it is routed---which comes up to the side of the Turbo outlet. I do have to reach between my AC lines and Webasto coolant hose, but nothing too bad and I am able to check with the engine hot, albeit carefully.
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I made a simple bracket that just attaches to the Turbo outlet v-band clamp. I just put another lock nut on the clamp and made a simple 90 degree angle that slips onto the clamps bolt and the dipstick just bolts to that.
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This is what quickserve shows the metal oil pan and dipstick configuration looks like. Will this help your configuration? Need any of these part numbers for brackets etc? There are other configurations for the metal oil pan I think as well.
View attachment 31111
View attachment 31112

Here are some part numbers I got from a thread on FB:

Oil Pan: #5318048
Oil Dipstick: #5343280
Oil Plug: #5343291
Hexagon Flange Head Cap Screw for Plug: M5x0.8x16
Spare oil pan gasket: #5254612

I have the aluminum oil pan and gasket on the shelf and saving for when I re-do the engine mounts. I plan on getting the dipstick but if you have the bracket part number I would really appreciate it.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Here are some part numbers I got from a thread on FB:

Oil Pan: #5318048
Oil Dipstick: #5343280
Oil Plug: #5343291
Hexagon Flange Head Cap Screw for Plug: M5x0.8x16
Spare oil pan gasket: #5254612

I have the aluminum oil pan and gasket on the shelf and saving for when I re-do the engine mounts. I plan on getting the dipstick but if you have the bracket part number I would really appreciate it.
Yeah, that was me that posted that on the FB thread. So I know those are all correct. The bracket I just manufactured. I drilled a couple holes and bent it at 90° and that was that. Piece of cake.
 
Yeah, that was me that posted that on the FB thread. So I know those are all correct. The bracket I just manufactured. I drilled a couple holes and bent it at 90° and that was that. Piece of cake.
I thought it was you but wasn't 100% certain - sorry for not mentioning you. I had it copied and saved in my Defender parts/specs .txt file 👍
 
Here are some part numbers I got from a thread on FB:

Oil Pan: #5318048
Oil Dipstick: #5343280
Oil Plug: #5343291
Hexagon Flange Head Cap Screw for Plug: M5x0.8x16
Spare oil pan gasket: #5254612

I have the aluminum oil pan and gasket on the shelf and saving for when I re-do the engine mounts. I plan on getting the dipstick but if you have the bracket part number I would really appreciate it.

Here are the breakdowns for pan and dipstick setup to ensure it can work as needed.
Metal Pan parts.png
Metal oil pan Dipstick parts breakdown.png
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Here are the breakdowns for pan and dipstick setup to ensure it can work as needed.
View attachment 31122View attachment 31123

Thanks! Just FYI for folks that may not know, most those items come with the pan or with dipstick, so don’t go buying all the numbers in the pic! But great visual and thanks! The two parts I’d suggest getting a spare of are the oil pan gasket #5254612 and possibly the dip stick oring seal #4062328 in case you ever drop the pan again.. Cummins has a fair price at $21+$3. When I first assembled everything, I thought I had a leak from the front cover crankshaft seal as I changed my front cover to integrated filter And they can be finicky—But it turned out, I had a seep from my oil pan gasket and I fortunately had a spare and tried that first. I like to drop the pan every few oil changes so I can inspect anything that’s inside. Just what I like to do. I don’t know why the first one leaked but it did, and when I replaced it, I once again had a leak free truck. So if placing and order, I’d add the gasket, maybe oring but I didn’t replace mine and it didn’t leak. Best practice would be to.
 
Thanks for the info. Wish Cummins was more open with alternate parts list for the 2.8. I've found so many useful parts that would have made my initial conversion easier. Things like OEM intake pipes and bolt on motor mounts. Have to make a thread with the part numbers and pics one of these days
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Has anyone ever found a painted parts catalog for the R2.8? I have the workshop manuals (Vol 1&2) and I would get one if the exist.
 
Just curious if any R2.8 users are using a Sedimenter (in addition to stock filter)?
Not really a sedimenter as far as I know, but here is the breakdown for the fuel filter they use on the qsf2.8 and the optional fuel heater setup for the Water separator as well.
 

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I am already using the stock filter/separator. Just want a visual sedimented for a pre filter to extend the main filter and have a more visual idea when you may have a bad batch of diesel. Just worried about added restriction and I know that is a potential Murphy code as someone here had that happen BUT they were running it through a secondary pump.
 
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