1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

[MountainD]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.

 

[MountainD]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.
View attachment 29398

The lower pan transitions at a diagonal, so I tried to capture that a little but I don't think that matters much. The main thing is the front is ~2" deeper and slopes where the plastic is mainly flat through that section.

 

[donb]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.
View attachment 29398

The lower pan transitions at a diagonal, so I tried to capture that a little but I don't think that matters much. The main thing is the front is ~2" deeper and slopes where the plastic is mainly flat through that section.

MountainD - thank you! (I was out of town and seeing this now hence me posting days later)

I have the long bell R380 with my engine very close to the steering box so pretty close to as far forward as it can go I think.

Besides the strength of the aluminum I am hoping the increase in capacity is a good thing too. I know there is a guy on the FB group that had bearing problems and says it's a known issue (but I don't hear it from too many others on there) and maybe some more oil will help prevent that.

 

[MountainD]

For me, I hate plastic because it’ll degrade and do so even quicker in the presence of heat. Deforming , plasticity or brittleness, that’s my experience with plastic components. I’m looking at my thermostat housing one of these days too. But it’s no joke deeper make sure you get it right. I even articulated axles without springs to check (with plastic oil pan) and lowered engine as much as possible to keep CG as low as I could). I didn’t figure it would be this much closer, but easy enough to fix. Engage bump stop earlier, raise engine, taller springs, or relax diff cover by Tig welding it. I’ll probably do a bump stop pad on the axle so bump stop engages. It’ll limit front articulation which isn’t a plus. Neither raising body nor engine works— both have negative attributes. The best solution to me is to TIG in a scoop in that area the next time I have the pan off.

 

[Spikemd]

Well, I blew up my R2.8. Threw the 3rd cylinder connecting rod bearing with low oil. I'm in process of rebuilding and bought the aluminum oil pan and hoping clearance won't be an issue. But it has like twice the capacity if the plastic one. HIGHLY recommend the upgrade if it fits. Don't know what happened with mine, but it was low on oil. Doesn't drip at all so must be burning a lot more than expected. New crank, connecting rods and putting her back together.

 

[Francois1]

edited my reply on wrong thread.

 

[MountainD]

I’ve been running this combination of oil pan since New really. I also appreciate the larger capacity and it does indeed stick down further. I originally set the engine for the plastic oil pan and when I put the aluminum version in in the same position, it touches the upper part of the differential housing on the axle. So I’m increasing my bump stops to keep that contact from happening by putting a spacer under my already longer bump stops on the passenger side. I don’t seem to be losing much oil but I keep a pretty close eye on such things. So sorry you had to have that happen ! Diesels in general seem to burn a little oil, so I do burn some, but I only drive 3k-4k miles a year and change oil yearly. Ive rebuilt a lot of engines and the ones that I’ve built and done my own maintenance on have been pretty damn spotless. I don’t mind changing my oil with such frequency compared to miles and I always learn something about the engine and parts when I do.

 

[donb]

I have the parts sitting on the shelf to change to the aluminum oil pan and will definitely do after hearing about @Spikemd unfortunate event.

My plan is to swap engine mounts at the same time as I have the Farmstrong / QuickDraw style and it seems the feedback on them is they are on the stiff side. I am leaning towards the Td5/Puma engine mounts and getting the chassis side mount plate from RN (https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rne0263e_td5_engine_bracket_set_for_blank_chassis_defender). I'll update my build thread when I get around to it.

 

[MountainD]

I have the parts sitting on the shelf to change to the aluminum oil pan and will definitely do after hearing about @Spikemd unfortunate event.

My plan is to swap engine mounts at the same time as I have the Farmstrong / QuickDraw style and it seems the feedback on them is they are on the stiff side. I am leaning towards the Td5/Puma engine mounts and getting the chassis side mount plate from RN (https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rne0263e_td5_engine_bracket_set_for_blank_chassis_defender). I'll update my build thread when I get around to it.

I would do the pan swap first, so that you know where to put the mounts to make sure you don't have any interference between the oil pan and the axle at full articulation. It is always a game on how high you can go while keeping the engine/CG as low as possible, particularly if you are staying with the original hood versus the Puma hood (not sure which you are using).

 

[donb]

I would do the pan swap first, so that you know where to put the mounts to make sure you don't have any interference between the oil pan and the axle at full articulation. It is always a game on how high you can go while keeping the engine/CG as low as possible, particularly if you are staying with the original hood versus the Puma hood (not sure which you are using).

That was my plan - it seems to make the most sense. I have a hi-pinion Toyota 3rd member in the front axle so I may have to change that as well. I am also going to change the original style hood to Puma.

 

[MountainD]

Just curious if any R2.8 users are using a Sedimenter (in addition to stock filter)?

 

[KW1985def110]

Just curious if any R2.8 users are using a Sedimenter (in addition to stock filter)?

I have considered a FASS filter system off and on, but laziness and lack of time have won so far.

What are you thinking?

 

[MountainD]

I have considered a FASS filter system off and on, but laziness and lack of time have won so far.

What are you think

A Racor PS120. Just to separate water and get the big stuff. I have it, havent installed it, really wondering if a pump, like one would use on a 200tdi, is even necessary or good idea…

 

[brdhmltn]

Just curious if any R2.8 users are using a Sedimenter (in addition to stock filter)?

I use a sedimenter I bought off Robert Davis on the other site years ago... the one with the glass bowl. I also have an electric fuel pump in line that was intended to be emergency use only - one of the cheap 12D's off amazon. All that runs to the R2.8 fuel filter.

I used 5/8 fuel line and drove around town at slow speeds for months without having an issue. Getting more confident with the engine and pushing the boost more, I've found I need the electric pump on or I will intermittently get a fuel flow error code under high boost/acceleration. If I have the pump on, no issues at all.

I've never gotten junk or water into the sedimenter, but it's there for the 1 in a million case, not normal everyday stuff.

 

[MountainD]

I use a sedimenter I bought off Robert Davis on the other site years ago... the one with the glass bowl. I also have an electric fuel pump in line that was intended to be emergency use only - one of the cheap 12D's off amazon. All that runs to the R2.8 fuel filter.

I used 5/8 fuel line and drove around town at slow speeds for months without having an issue. Getting more confident with the engine and pushing the boost more, I've found I need the electric pump on or I will intermittently get a fuel flow error code under high boost/acceleration. If I have the pump on, no issues at all.

I've never gotten junk or water into the sedimenter, but it's there for the 1 in a million case, not normal everyday stuff.

I'll probably just not use the sedimenter then. I hate introducing elements back into the system when it is working so well.

 

[brdhmltn]

I will probably just put a couple of the cheap 12D's in the underseat storage.

 

[abraded]

You're probably best just removing the inline pump. If the inline pump is not running your then asking the engine to spin the inline pump rotor by suction--no way I can see that this doesn't cause restriction and increased strain on the engine mounted fuel pump. This strategy of putting extra pumps inline never made sense to me. If the engine is specified to have a lift pump you should have one, but extras just create more failure points.

Out of curiosity I just looked at the r2.8 install manual--"The installation of electric priming pumps or lift pumps in the fuel supply line is not recommended. These pumps can add restriction to the system or over-pressurize the engine’s high-pressure common rail (HPCR) fuel pump,
resulting in instability and fault codes."

 

[MountainD]

And this brings it back around to my original concern— if a sedimenter would have a restriction issue with the R2.8. I don’t wanna add a pump but I would add a sedimenter if there were no ill affects. Just trying to find out if anyone’s done that. May have to try. I do have a union for it in my AN lines already but RRoberts was for RH side of frame, not universal like Racor…

 

[abraded]

I can't point to any data to back it up, but don't expect a sedimenter would cause any significant restriction.

On the Robert Davis sedimenter it looks like there are undrilled bosses to swap to reverse mounting. In wonder if you could just drill and tap those and plug the existing ports.

 

[MountainD]

I’d imagine that if there’s bosses that you absolutely could drill it. It’s a simple mechanism so I would say most likely. What I didn’t like about Roberts was that the tube was a separate item and that makes it rather messy. Others may very doesn’t really matter. I have this one install at some point.