1991 200TDI to R2.8--couple remaining questions

[MountainD]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.

 

[MountainD]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.
View attachment 29398

The lower pan transitions at a diagonal, so I tried to capture that a little but I don't think that matters much. The main thing is the front is ~2" deeper and slopes where the plastic is mainly flat through that section.

 

[donb]

So, first and foremost---I used the Stubby R380 in my build. most folks I know are using the long nose version, if that transmission at all. So the position of the oil pan in relationship to the front diff will vary based on position. Also, my DIFF, not the axle, intersected the pan which makes sense from the photo as it is on the diagonal of the corner. So take that into account. You can see that there is a protrusion of the pan where it hit and then the pan is actually more narrow an inch or two back, so by moving the engine forward you would have a little more clearance.

The pans are drastically different shapes which accounts for the sizable increase in the oil capacity. Here are the ROUGH dimensions---with the plastic pan on the bottom.
View attachment 29398

The lower pan transitions at a diagonal, so I tried to capture that a little but I don't think that matters much. The main thing is the front is ~2" deeper and slopes where the plastic is mainly flat through that section.

MountainD - thank you! (I was out of town and seeing this now hence me posting days later)

I have the long bell R380 with my engine very close to the steering box so pretty close to as far forward as it can go I think.

Besides the strength of the aluminum I am hoping the increase in capacity is a good thing too. I know there is a guy on the FB group that had bearing problems and says it's a known issue (but I don't hear it from too many others on there) and maybe some more oil will help prevent that.

 

[MountainD]

For me, I hate plastic because it’ll degrade and do so even quicker in the presence of heat. Deforming , plasticity or brittleness, that’s my experience with plastic components. I’m looking at my thermostat housing one of these days too. But it’s no joke deeper make sure you get it right. I even articulated axles without springs to check (with plastic oil pan) and lowered engine as much as possible to keep CG as low as I could). I didn’t figure it would be this much closer, but easy enough to fix. Engage bump stop earlier, raise engine, taller springs, or relax diff cover by Tig welding it. I’ll probably do a bump stop pad on the axle so bump stop engages. It’ll limit front articulation which isn’t a plus. Neither raising body nor engine works— both have negative attributes. The best solution to me is to TIG in a scoop in that area the next time I have the pan off.