110 Slider Design

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I'm designing some sliders for my ex-MOD 110. I want mine to have a notch where the NATO fuel lockers sit; you can get around this by cutting the bottom of the locker doors off but it looks like total shit.

One of the problems I have to solve is mounting. Unlike the 90s (NAS 90s?), there's no tube extending out from the frame that can be used as a mount point. Lacking any readily-available and solid mount points, I was thinking about borrowing an idea from the Dodge RAM world. I bought a set of White Knuckle Offroad sliders for my RAM 2500:

Dodge%20Power%20Wagon%202005-2009%20whiteknuckleoffroad.JPG


2010-2013-ram-rock-sliders-white-knuckle-off-road-5-_595.jpg


The mount is pretty interesting: it has a flat plate that butts up against the outside face of the frame rail. A separate plate is placed against the inside face and the two plates are bolted together, sandwiching the frame in between. On a RAM, this is a stout system, enough to support the weight of the truck sitting on the slider.

I looked at my 110 and there are some good spots where I could sandwich the frame but I'm not sure if it would support a clamped load like this. What do you think?
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
I don't see why the frame wouldn't support it. The 90 sliders mount by having the tube go into the tube on the frame. That tube is just welded to the frame. I don't see how the sandwich plates would be any weaker than that design. Maybe try to use more than two mounting points front and rear?
 
I don't see why the frame wouldn't support it. The 90 sliders mount by having the tube go into the tube on the frame. That tube is just welded to the frame. I don't see how the sandwich plates would be any weaker than that design. Maybe try to use more than two mounting points front and rear?
That tube passes through the frame and is welded to both sides, it's much more resistant to force from any direction.
When I built the sliders on my 90 I used a tube that was a slip fit and long enough to reach the inside of the frame.
Mike
 
Chris,
I've been planning to build sliders for my ex-MOD 110 for years . . . one project of many. But I did find these photos on the web years ago and kept them. It's a good way to deal with the storage box. Like you I didn't want to cut the doors on mine.
I hope this is useful.
Mike
 

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chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
Interesting. So they've basically put a piece of plywood there to fill the gap.

Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of that look. I was thinking about a standard slider design like the Mantecs, but trimming off the top near the rear to accommodate the lockers, then boxing in the trimmed section.

I was going to take the truck to Matt at Rock Ware to get them made on my drive out to Kansas but ran out of time. My plan now is to mock them up with foam core and have some local fab guy build them.
 

DefendersNW

Well-known member
We are building a mantec style with lower section for the lockers for my Tithonus project. No tree bars, and looking for a rear mount point as well...

SW tub crossmember is used for support on some of the versions I have installed, thinking of a modified support to mount the rear of the sliders to the frame.
 
Interesting. So they've basically put a piece of plywood there to fill the gap.

Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of that look. I was thinking about a standard slider design like the Mantecs, but trimming off the top near the rear to accommodate the lockers, then boxing in the trimmed section.

I was going to take the truck to Matt at Rock Ware to get them made on my drive out to Kansas but ran out of time. My plan now is to mock them up with foam core and have some local fab guy build them.

It's not plywood, it's steel tube.
The top of a slider can be notched & boxed to clear the door.
Mike
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Chris, i also like the idea of taking a mantec and or whatever, notch and box and if you want to strengthen build a support that goes to the frame. Should not be too difficult for a fabricator if you don't have access to a welder
 

BenLittle

Well-known member
Callsign: KE7BEN
Yea, I'm not digging the look of the extra piece of steel. Notch and box is the way to go with a legit frame mount. Shouldn't be too difficult.
 
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