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I would think so, perhaps. In theory, I suppose it could work, but I have not done anything with my spare bulkhead yet---just sitting in my cool, dry garage taking up space. :cool:

I have discussed this at length with one of my local Powdercoat folks called applied plastics. They said they could powder coat my bulkhead with a zinc impregnated paint that, although not quite as good as zinc dipped, has remarkable oxidation resilience and long-term anti-corrosive properties...

I actually kind of like it…. Not for that dough though.

I have their expansion tank and power steering. No issues with either, just their shitie radiators. I intentionally didn’t do their sight glass as there are many report on them leaking on ALRO and elsewhere. But doesn’t sound to rampant. If you’re concerned about low level, do a sensor alarm...

It’s definitely Serck, and only recently did Unipart come into the branding, but they‘ve been owned by then as long as I’ve known them, so at least 20 years. Andrew Durbin, their service manager, is who I worked with. Sercks number is (303) 297-0355. Andrew took the comparison hoot and they...

I will say this. If it keeps me cool in HOT summer, at altitude, while towing with AC on—- then I’ll be at peace.

You’d want to size it with a particular intercooler but I know they would. Trails will open soon here and rocks are brutal, loads of shakes (washboard) and bumps and bangs (big rock fields). So I’ll be putting it through paces BUT haven’t hit it hard since it was done. If I recommend...

Right on! I’ll try a pair!

I was a fan of allisport and even promoted them to friends briefly based on the weld quality. For about 2 months. I’ll never speak highly about them again. 2 months of use till I leaked. they offered to take a look to see if it qualified for warranty, just send it back, freight both ways on...

Your call, but probably a bad thread for this discussion.

Right on! Very cool. What sort of amps or watts do the bulbs draw?

The more I think about it….. particularly with power bleeder which I also have…. You want to keep a bubble from propagating…so remove the first bubble at the first caliper (drivers side front for LHD) and work back seems to make sense to me. more sense than if you pump the brakes….

I want to do an electric vac pump for my LS. What did you go with/what is a good electric vac pump?

I always advocate cool, dry air And when folks saw how much pipe I ran just to cool it, people scratched head—I dig your cooling radiator, wish I did that. Folks underestimate It. It’ll be interesting now which paint you’ll go with now….I sort of prefer that motocryl

Just thought it was cool. all new LT230's. https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/lt230-new/

Yes. I always use a shim or two. When I don't, even with genuine, it compresses the door side too much and the door won't close without a slam. You shouldn't have to slam a door to get a good seal. Now the aspect that the door bends over time is an entirely different obstacle and one that...

Could be you need to shim the hinge out. It often pinches the bulkhead portion of seal which can’t compress enough for B pillar side. Shims can help that.

I was in fish-eye hell at one point. I tried filling the craters while wet, never get it right. Took those panels down to bare metal as I couldn't get past them on one section--even had to re-prime. I was frustrated. Same equipment as other panels---just this one was my nemesis even after...

Is your air cool and dry enough? I ran an extra 30’ of pipe out of my compressor and the a dryer then my hose before I got that under control, but there are many things that contribute. Usually too little paint on the orange peel, increasing amount usually laid that down.

Didn’t ya search a while for that?