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Sounds like that gets moved to the top of the laundry list. Since the crankcase breather enters the plumbing before the turbo, how do you figure out where the leak is from? No detectable oil loss in the 2,500 miles since I’ve owned it.

Solved. I re-cleaned and one of the lower IC clamps was a little loose. Which begs the question: Does the IC need to be removed and de-greased (de-oiled) occasionally to restore it's cooling capacity? The 300Tdi only has 80k miles on it and runs like a top so wouldn't think the cyclonic...

Started to pull calipers to rebuild then noticed my caliper seal kits do not have any kind of seal which seals the caliper halves. Parts cat. lists 17H8764L that looks like it might be the right style of seal (square section O-ring) but application is for H-K and I've got a V (1997) There are...

Thanks for the info @michael67. Saved me pulling the radiator. And all others, you've convinced me, I suppose I'll re-clean and start seaching after short trips. Thanks, Stephan

It's clean as a cat's a**! I spent over two hours under it with a pressure washer just 500 miles ago and haven't driven it off road or in the rain since. The newly oiled surfaces you see in the photos, have developed in the last 100 miles, but I still can't tell where it is coming from. It's so...

I've got a new oil leak that I can't find. It is definitely engine oil. I suspect the oil cooler but saw nothing when I removed the fan shroud. What part of the radiator is dedicated as oil cooler? It is a few of the bottom rows or just part of the end cap?.....???

Duty on my '97 130 that came in at Baltimore was 2.5% in December of 2021.

CORRECTION! WRONG AMSOIL PRODUCT! Correct is: Amsoil Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90

I certainly tend to not believe a lot of advertising BS. Just choose a name brand oil product that claims to have friction modifiers aimed to slow synchros for smoother shifts to aid those thousands of times we rush a shift. The two that I’m aware of are Redline MTL and Amsoil Manual...

I removed my fuel tank before replacing fuel lines and doing my electric fuel pump/pre-filter mod. Lots of rust and dirt that couldn't be seen with the tank in place. Spent 2 hours under truck with a pressure washer, let it dry overnight then touched up Waxoyl. I see in my photos I have some...

colorrite.com

I always thought I'd re-paint my truck Corris Grey, until I saw it parked to a truly white truck. Now I really love Alpine white.

Successful electric FP/prefilter bracket mock-up! Dismantle and paint brackets. Remove fuel tank so I can do a through pressure wash before touching up Waxoyl. Vapor blaster did beautiful job on water pump housing I have off for the leaking P-gasket. I think I'm going to have it anodized...

Does anyone have a speedometer that physically fits my '97 300TDi 130? Kilometers or miles, doesn't matter. It doesn't even have to work. I just want to ship it to Westach to see if they can rebuild it with their innards and a new face to make it match my other Westach gauges.

They're brand new-in the box.

evilfij, I've got these I'll sell. I didn't like the fact that they don't come with any boot to keep the muck out (like on an H4) but I kept them too long to return. They are from vintageheadlights.com. I'll let 'em go for $320.00 shipped.

Thank you erover82. Sorry. I saw the part no. and didn't read the link.

Thanks for the response but I need to buy a banjo to fit the bolt for use with rubber hose instead of the polyamide.

Does anybody know what size x thread the 300TDi IP fuel inlet banjo bolt is? I'm hoping M14 x 1.5. Stephan

Don’t see in parts files. All obsolete parts?