Recent content by pfshoen

Straightening alum is becoming a lost art form. Bondo doesn't stick well with alloy. DA sanders can create enough heat to warp the panel. Pretty sure replacement panels are cheap compared to body shop labor.

I'm not convinced it's a lost cause. Get into it like uc4me says and find out. LR3's are worth saving.

Would be more durable than oem card.

Did these come in different colors? Were the rim edges polished or painted from the factory? The 2-tone finish without a tape line isn't easy to replicate.

Spares are located differently in each type from the factory and use different brackets.

Since oem spares mount at different heights relative to the bed in the 130 vs. 110 HCPU, I don't see how they can use the same mount bracket. If the spare is mounted aft of the wheelwell in a 110 like in a 130, then they could use the same mount, but not the tall one pictured in this thread...

Tire weight was designed to be supported by floor in a 130 and wheelwell on a 110. Otherwise, I would expect the bed sides to deform in short order. A block of wood under the spare with this bracket would support the weight but would mount the spare higher than necessary/ideal. The oem mounts...

The harlequin scheme accentuates the "Lego" Def construction, not that it needs it. Done with the right colors, you could end up with a kind of camoflage. In general, I like Harlequin paintjobs. They're fun.

Looks like it would work as is on a 110 which mounts the spare higher up.

Is there any chance this mount is for the 110 HCPU where the spare fits in front of and on the wheelwell, thus raising it higher than on the 130?

Like anything, condition speaks to value. They go for well under a grand in the UK, but it costs more than that to get one here. They're built like tanks, and there isn't much else like it. Compare price to what other trailers are available. Many are rust buckets, esp the steel tubs.

For the trip, check tires and wheel bearings. Would be good for it to be empty the first time you tow it, as long as there is some tongue weight to keep it from fishtailing. When hooked up the tongue should be pretty level. Working lights are a must.

I'd say the NAS 110's in 1993 and the Grens today occupy similar spaces in the market. But they've built a heckuva lot more Grens than they did NAS 110's. Gren has the advantage of an auto trans but isn't as easy to get in/out. In general, neither are first choices for DD's. I don't think...

Just took apart a rear door on a low mile NAS 90 SW '97. Frame was cracked in several places, along with a bit of rust made it not worth trying to save. I'd never hang a spare on an aluminum Def rear door.

Softtop Rovers are all the rage now. Used to be the economy spec. Now sexy, but not for me. I also prefer a hard shell rather than a tent while camping.