Recent content by OH+D

I believe its made by Waeco/Dometic but thats just based on looking at it. It looks exactly the same as the other branded fridges (ironman etc). I'd remove the TF decals and call it a day.

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5730 Well worth owning. There are alternatives you can buy as well with a little creativity.

You do not have to remove the radiator. I use a compact 3/8 drive air impact gun with a shaved down 15/16 socket (height cut down so that the well is only as deep as the bolt head). This fits between the crank pulley and radiator with room to spare. You may find that the crank pulley seal...

The same exact ad popped up on the Vermont Craigslist today. I flagged it.

We'll be leaving the greater Boston area on the evening of Wednesday 10/11 headed for URE. I have room available to bring parts down or bring them back with me. No cost. Due to tight scheduling I wont be able to deviate much off my route there and back, but PM me and let me know what'd needed...

Removing/replacing like for like (especially a V6 with tons of room) is easy. That is 1/10th the effort of an engine conversion. In addition to the electronics, which would likely amount to 100+ hours of problem solving, we'd also need a custom machined adapter and possibly flywheel to mate the...

The fiber optic MOST ring is strictly for the infotainment system, not powertrain or body control. It may be a relatively easy swap (compared to swapping any other engine into an LR3) due to the J1939 (CAN bus) interface that the 2.8 has. It would depend on what outputs are available. Would have...

Hi Doug, replacing the bottom rail would not be an issue. Could you help me get in touch with Trey? Cheers

In search of 110 second row doors, early 83/84 split style with the removable door top. Will consider any condition. Cheers

If the cap/rotor are of age I'd start there. That would at least rule them out. Be cautious of which replacement parts you buy as the quality varies widely. "Lucas" branded parts have been the absolute worst lately. If its not the cap/rotor I'd move on to the ignition module. Adam

So long as people live in corrosive environments and don't wash the underside/engine compartments of their vehicles regularly, and so long as they don't clean out the sunroof (and cowl) drain pans of debris, we will always have those problems. Just like cleaning the gutters on a home. Adam

My commentary was regarding regular Rotella T 15W40, not the T6 synthetic 5W40. However, for the price, my preference remains Castrol 0W40 (under $30 for a 5 qt jug).

Be cautious of Rotella. It is a bulk diesel truck oil aimed at commercial operators who change 10 gallons of oil at a time, once a month (think value). The catchy brand name has earned it an undeserved following, in my opinion. Further reading available on bobistheoilguy.com for those inclined.

Battery voltage issues (from the battery itself or poor quality connections) are by far the most common cause of electrical faults in these vehicles. However corrosion in the CAN bus, especially at the transfer case control module connector, is also a common culprit. The brake switch is also...

I use Castrol Syntec 0W40 in my personal Rovers. The most important thing is to have a xW40 weight or better. xW30 is not the correct weight for Rover V8s. Adam