Recent content by michael67

I took it to "Austin Rebuilders", a place that specialize in hose fabrication and repair. Seemed to do a good job (admittedly not the prettiest) as well as pressure testing the line. I've encased the section of the metal hoses next to the radiator bracket in rubber hoses.

I've gotten my old 300tdi Elite AC back together enough to charge and run it, but I had to swap back to my original AC tenioner pulley, as the new tensioner pulley sits about 1/8" further out. I thought it was close enough, but eventually the belt slips inward and half rides on the tensioner...

Try spraying with PB Plaster or similar, wait a while and tap with a hammer to get the pin to release. Mine's seized up before too.

Turns out my system is an Elite system, not a RN system. Looks like Elite is no longer in business, or at least not selling Land Rover ACs. I gave up on soldering aluminum - I could never even get test piece to work. I was able to cut out the leaking bit and join the two halves together with...

Yes, but mine doesn't look like that - it's two separate lines. Like I said, mine looks like the RN version, but there's no marking other than a serial number plate as to the true origin. And I can only tell so much from the RN pictures. As to the crimper, it's a metal line and I'd rather...

No, I mean the short line that goes through the firewall. One end connects to the line you show, the other end connects directly to the evaporator. You have to remove the evaporator box/fan assembly from the truck in order to get to the other end of the line.

I've got an AC in my LHD 300 Tdi that looks a lot like the one sold by Rovers North. Install was two owners ago, I'd say late 2000s, 2007 or 2008 maybe. Anyway, between the installer not doing a good job and a cheap-o plastic grommet, a hole wore through the high pressure line where it goes...

Not much to the sending unit and pickup. The pickup is a fixed straw to the bottom of the tank, usually a low spot. The sending unit is a float on the end of an arm connected to a variable resistor. If they work I wouldn't mess with them, except if I were dropping the tank for another reason...

I've had quality issues with stuff from Lucky8. Specifically their polybush lower control arms for the LR4 - one control arm split along the tube that the bushing sits in, about four years after I bought them. Ripped the front axle out of the front diff. Major mess and major expense. This...

I bought a pair of Unitruck mirrors (https://unitruck.com/collections/land-rover-defender-mirrors/products/main-mirror-xl-with-wide-angle-glass-unhtd-manual-left-right) for my 110. Here's a summary of the review: I figured I was in trouble when I opened the box and one of the mirrors fell...

This first thing I did on my Exige was the "green wire" mod, i.e. disable the DRLs. Other than not being able to completely control the lights, the problem was the DRLs were so bright at night I often forgot to turn on the head (and hence tail) lights.

I've had an after market version of that solenoid go out on me within a few months. I replaced it with a genuine VW part about 10 years back - no problem so far.

Just for clarification, when you say you "feel there’s pressure at the intake banjo", did you bleed at the intake banjo?

Have you loosened all the injector lines a bit on the injector side as you crank the engine? I've had to do this.

Get a wiring diagram. I don't know what engine you have, but there's an electrical connection under the hood that allows you to disconnect the rear lights on the 300 Tdi & TD5. I'd start there and Ohm things out, check output voltages, and/or apply voltage.