Recent content by michael67

I bought two "DA6449.TR"s Defender 110 1 Inch Lowered Springs (https://www.lrdirect.com/da6449-aleutian-silver-paint-pen) last September, thinking it was two springs - nope, it was two boxes of two springs. I put one box on and am selling the second box. These are great if you've got a 110 FFR...

I wrote up a how-to on defendersource when I fixed mine in 2012 using the dieselgeek seal ("300 Tdi & dieselgeek.com"). Relatively easy job. If I remember, the biggest PITA was removing the shutoff solenoid. Still no leaks after more than 12 years. Never mind, I read your post too quickly -...

OK, sorry for the drop off as I had higher priority issues jump in front. Anyway, I pulled the old ignition switch and it's just a generic ignition switch, not a Defender-specific one. I was going to go ahead and install the new Allmakes PRC2734 switch, but I get 2k+ Ohms (or open) between the...

The new switch does all of those, so no accesssory position then. Anyone know which switch(es) have an accessory position?

Hi, I recently bought a new ignition switch PRC2734 from LR Direct. It included new keys, which was nice. However, there doesn't seem to be an accessory position - the switch can be turned to the run and start positions fine, but I can't turn it backwards. My old switch (not sure of the...

Like you, I've done an AMC 4.2 on my old CJ and now a 300 Tdi. I went with the MLS gasket, no problems after nearly 20k miles. Went with new bolts because I didn't have the complete engine history. I kept my old push rods. Just cleaned both surfaces very well. I also checked for flatness...

For mine, the pulley is visibly off. Mine ran for a 20 minutes before shredding, while I was filling the system with Freon. So we've got Britpart & Allmakes both not aligning properly. Let us know about Dayco.

I took it to "Austin Rebuilders", a place that specialize in hose fabrication and repair. Seemed to do a good job (admittedly not the prettiest) as well as pressure testing the line. I've encased the section of the metal hoses next to the radiator bracket in rubber hoses.

I've gotten my old 300tdi Elite AC back together enough to charge and run it, but I had to swap back to my original AC tenioner pulley, as the new tensioner pulley sits about 1/8" further out. I thought it was close enough, but eventually the belt slips inward and half rides on the tensioner...

Try spraying with PB Plaster or similar, wait a while and tap with a hammer to get the pin to release. Mine's seized up before too.

Turns out my system is an Elite system, not a RN system. Looks like Elite is no longer in business, or at least not selling Land Rover ACs. I gave up on soldering aluminum - I could never even get test piece to work. I was able to cut out the leaking bit and join the two halves together with...

Yes, but mine doesn't look like that - it's two separate lines. Like I said, mine looks like the RN version, but there's no marking other than a serial number plate as to the true origin. And I can only tell so much from the RN pictures. As to the crimper, it's a metal line and I'd rather...

No, I mean the short line that goes through the firewall. One end connects to the line you show, the other end connects directly to the evaporator. You have to remove the evaporator box/fan assembly from the truck in order to get to the other end of the line.

I've got an AC in my LHD 300 Tdi that looks a lot like the one sold by Rovers North. Install was two owners ago, I'd say late 2000s, 2007 or 2008 maybe. Anyway, between the installer not doing a good job and a cheap-o plastic grommet, a hole wore through the high pressure line where it goes...

Not much to the sending unit and pickup. The pickup is a fixed straw to the bottom of the tank, usually a low spot. The sending unit is a float on the end of an arm connected to a variable resistor. If they work I wouldn't mess with them, except if I were dropping the tank for another reason...