Before investing a ton of time searching the internet, I'd just reach out to autosparks (https://www.autosparks.co.uk/) and see if they can help achieve these goals.
dye the cooling system. NAPA #400587 and a UV flashlight. home depot/harbor freight have a few options. Clean that area and run the truck with the dye in it. get the flashlight out and take a good look around.
i'd weld the nut. can chop off and fit a new nut if the threads ever got buggered. Pressurize them (just a few PSI, don't need 150psi for this test) and place in a water bath to confirm they are sealed.
I've really enjoyed this ARB unit that comes in a small tool box. it does the trick with getting air in a few tires. We can also take it with us in any one of our trucks. I don't run air lockers ATM, so no hardwired requirments.
Another note re: ARB, is if a customer has one fail, they or I can...
I pull them. I'll give the housing a clean before I pull and before disassembly. set upright and I use tacky grease on ring and surfaces upon assembly. buy a second kit/o-ring for cheap insurance.
I'd not touch it for now. Get the truck to a stable spot, running smooth as can be. add things to a service window if desired.
Unless there are issues at play, I usually bundle a new tank with a HD tank skid plate along with all the fixings. one and done type deal.
starting to feel like poor grounds are your enemy here.
inspect battery negative terminal, clamp (is it tight?), and cable. follow ground cable and see where it goes; Chassis? Chassis & Driveline? is the cable hard as a rock? show any signs of corrosion or melting?
If you run a jumper cable...
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