Does anybody know where to find a crimper for one of these cast terminal lugs? This one measures 15 mm OD. The 0 AWG hydraulic crimper I bought at Harbor Freight is too small.
Yeah, I've soldered them before but moved away from it because I was concerned that the joint might get hot and release. I gave up on crimping and just soldered anyway. All is good. Thanks for the help guys.
That's why you wouldn't fill the entire depth of the lug with solder, but leave about 1/8-1/4" of strands loose, and stress-relieve it with heavy-duty shrink tubing.The larger concern with soldering is that the solder joints tend to break with vibration and are really hard to diagnose later. Unless it's a static install it's going to let you down.
Yeah, everything is great from the factory on a land rover...That's why you wouldn't fill the entire depth of the lug with solder, but leave about 1/8-1/4" of strands loose, and stress-relieve it with heavy-duty shrink tubing.
Factory battery terminals are soldered.
Okay, battery terminals are soldered from the factory on nearly all vehicles.Yeah, everything is great from the factory on a land rover...
Yes, but it was on an old boat, not a car.Has anyone ever seen a soldered wire connection break from vibration?
Oh they don’t shatter like glass, in fact they look completely fine, but they “break” in the sense that they weren’t properly heated, they’ve degraded, or their contact area breaks free (or always was) resulting in high resistance. All issues you don’t get with a crimped connection.Has anyone ever seen a soldered wire connection break from vibration?
They are utilizing this method to mass produce cables and likely have a robot dropping a pre-measured pellet into an induction heated lug. As stated above, when done properly, a soldered terminal is fantastic and will provide years of service. You can do both if it makes you happy (although it’s sort of unnecessary if you make a decent crimp and use ALST).Okay, battery terminals are soldered from the factory on nearly all vehicles.