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Old 01-10-2019, 08:27 AM   #1
belgian
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Default Rover Gauge Reading

Range Rover Classic 3.9

I show the following rovergauge readings.
Symptoms:
-Won't maintain normal idle speed when warming up.
- Once warm, stalls if not applying throttle.

Looking at the readings (with my limited knowledge), it seems that the following are in line:
Foot was on the throttle maintaining RPM's.
- TPS
- Idle bypass
- MAF

O2 sensors definitely seem weird.
Any advice here? Am I missing something? No codes.

Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:40 AM   #2
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Sounds like it could use a throttle body clean up or maybe throttle positioning sensor
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:04 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singingcanel View Post
Sounds like it could use a throttle body clean up or maybe throttle positioning sensor
Good point, I should have mentioned that I have the following (new):

https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductD...e=0&eq=&key=it

But doesn't the reading look correct?

Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:24 PM   #4
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generally at idle the TPS should not be 9-11% the tps should show 0.. the IACV provides the air to keep the engine running at idle.

I would make sure the cable is allowing it to close all the way.


The RN TPS will require a plug chang most likely and it shows they include it with the TPS - a 95 generally has a square plug. it will work. The square ones are NLA.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:52 PM   #5
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Its the round ones that are NLA. If you have a round TPS, some cutting and splicing is needed but they work fine.
You say you were on the throttle to prevent a stall? Lets go with basics. Check plugs/gap, replace as necessary....One step at a time.

BTW have you cleaned the MAF and IAC? Does the engine still stall if the MAF is disconnected?
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:25 PM   #6
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Default Rover Gauge Reading

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
generally at idle the TPS should not be 9-11% the tps should show 0.. the IACV provides the air to keep the engine running at idle.

He said he had some throttle being used to prevent it from stalling so the reading looks correct.
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
He said he had some throttle being used to prevent it from stalling so the reading looks correct.
Thanks! Correct... I was applying throttle. IF not, the warm engine would stall.
I installed the new TPS conversion. So that would hopefully not be an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky View Post
Lets go with basics. Check plugs/gap, replace as necessary....One step at a time.

BTW have you cleaned the MAF and IAC? Does the engine still stall if the MAF is disconnected?
-IAC is new
-I have tried a different spare MAF (including a spare new aftermarket one).
-Plugs and wires are new-ish (Champions, not some fancy kind). Gap on these should be fine.


No changes here. But I have not checked the air gap on the distributor, I guess I can do that next.
I'll also check to see what happens when I disconnect the MAF.
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:48 AM   #8
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Have you set the base idle as per the manual? Have you set the timing? Can you hear the idle bypass working?
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:16 AM   #9
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Any leaky intake hoses?
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:34 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the input here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Have you set the base idle as per the manual? Have you set the timing? Can you hear the idle bypass working?
Timing is correct. Even changed out the vacuum advance unit since the old one was broken.

I did not set base idle per the manual. I was under the impression that you do not have to reset that. Especially since it was running fine before. Therefore there is a different cause to the bad idle? Resetting base idle would mask that problem? Please tell me if I am wrong though.

What do you mean with "Idle bypass working"?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky View Post
Any leaky intake hoses?
All good here. the hose past the MAF to the intake is only 1 year old.
(together with all other vacuum hoses/ flame trap hose etc).
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