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Old 09-14-2018, 10:00 AM   #51
donb
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Thanks for the offer for the bolts Robert - I can measure the depths of he bores and get some. I?ll figure that out once I get the engine all prepped for install.

On a plus I finally got the flywheel back. 4 trips to the machine shop a half hour away but I have a new contact for machine work.




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Old 09-14-2018, 02:22 PM   #52
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I think I have the rear main T deal installed correctly. The old setup had the cork seals and one side had half it missing with Right Stuff filling in. Maybe it sealed but seemed like it could be done better. I made the guides out of some scrap aluminum I had laying around from an old dishwasher handle (if it?s aluminum or stainless I save it). That scrap has been on the shelf for years and it was nice in that it was almost the perfect size.

Cleaned and T seals installed - I took them out after the picture and prepped them with Right Stuff


Engine side prepped:


Rear main installed and torqued to 130 N/M


Cut the T deal extra down to 1mm showing:


QUESTION:
Here is a picture of the inside T seal. Should I try and cut the overhang or just leave it?



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Old 09-14-2018, 08:36 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDavisinVA View Post
The 19J is really hard to like up on a LHD with PS,
Always leave the PS pump off during removal and install on all the diesels up to the 200TDI. Never had a problem with alignment. Never, ever remove any interior pieces. Don't pull up with bolts or use alignment bolts. Align, wiggle, turn shaft, wiggle, bang she is home.
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:37 PM   #54
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It would be fab if the site admins would turn on auto resizing of the pics....
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:55 PM   #55
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Quote:
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It would be fab if the site admins would turn on auto resizing of the pics....

I posted full size/larger resolution as I hate researching something and the photos are too small to show certain details. I access N-R from my phone so didn?t notice it doesn?t auto-resize the photos.


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Old 09-15-2018, 06:15 AM   #56
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I left the T seal overhang. Too skured to cut it.
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:39 AM   #57
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Quote:
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I finally got the flywheel back.
Now would be the time to drill the holes to tap the pins out.
You can get a centering drill bit and drill from the top then once the center is sufficiently started, switch to a proper drill bit and drill the hole smaller than the dowel pin hole.
This will leave the step and hole to drive the pins out.
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Old 09-17-2018, 01:53 PM   #58
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Oil pan cleaned and prepped - there was some surface rust so did a quick sand and paint. Doesn?t look great but should protect it for a bit.





Pulled the oil pump to get the ladder frame back in. I originally pulled the 4 bolts and moved the screen to get it off.


Ladder frame and pan sealed with Right Stuff. I think the Right Stuff pushes out a good amount. Bolts I torqued to 25NM. I wired brushed the heads as they were pretty crappy and then used a paint marker after re-installing.







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Old 09-17-2018, 08:45 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDavisinVA View Post
Now would be the time to drill the holes to tap the pins out.

You can get a centering drill bit and drill from the top then once the center is sufficiently started, switch to a proper drill bit and drill the hole smaller than the dowel pin hole.

This will leave the step and hole to drive the pins out.

Seemed like a lot of people recommended to drill holes to tap the pins out. Welding honestly wasn?t bad but if the next person doesn?t have the capability then his might help.


Didn?t need a centering bit - think I used a 3/32? bit.







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Old 09-17-2018, 10:00 PM   #60
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Getting after it. Nice
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