Help with rear window tracks

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DRYANKNPUL

Active member
I changed my oil last week so now I think I can take the whole thing apart. I bought some anti rattle window tracks from garrison outfitters. I got the rivets drilled out, but I can not get the window frames out. Any tips would be appreciated.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
DRYANKNPUL said:
I changed my oil last week so now I think I can take the whole thing apart. I bought some anti rattle window tracks from garrison outfitters. I got the rivets drilled out, but I can not get the window frames out. Any tips would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

There is a double sided tape (I think that is what it is) that is between the frame and the body. The frame also fits very tightly in the body. Have someone push out from the inside and someone on the outside catch it. You might have to tap it a little bit. It is probably stuck with the tape.
 
javelinadave

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
David,
If your plastic window tracks are falling apart now is the time to change them too. Zack at Rovers North procured them for me along with new double sided weather stripping and they were both pretty cheap. I also had the glass tinted while it was out of the frame. The tinter thanked me for that.
 
D

DRYANKNPUL

Active member
javelinadave said:
David,
If your plastic window tracks are falling apart now is the time to change them too. Zack at Rovers North procured them for me along with new double sided weather stripping and they were both pretty cheap. I also had the glass tinted while it was out of the frame. The tinter thanked me for that.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm going to do the same. I didn't realize I needed to change the tracks but it's apparent I need to. I didn't thnk about getting them tinted while the glass is out, but that makes sense. The video made it look so easy. Reminds me of the time I had an accidental discharge of several grosses of bottle rockets in my K5 Blazer. I ordered new carpet out of a Whitney catalogue and ended up driving around while sitting on a lard bucket for about a month before I could get it all back together.
 
AdamSanta85

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
I would love to see some pics of this job.

My sliding windows while are working fine look a little "scuzzy" in the tracks and I see myself stripping that area and rebuilding/cleaning it at some point.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
AdamSanta85 said:
I would love to see some pics of this job.

My sliding windows while are working fine look a little "scuzzy" in the tracks and I see myself stripping that area and rebuilding/cleaning it at some point.
Click to expand...

Garrison Outfitters has step by step videos on Youtube showing how to do it.
 
D

DRYANKNPUL

Active member
AdamSanta85 said:
I would love to see some pics of this job.

My sliding windows while are working fine look a little "scuzzy" in the tracks and I see myself stripping that area and rebuilding/cleaning it at some point.
Click to expand...

I'll be happy to take some photos. The first step is to remove the rubber filler strip that goes inside the frame. This was an easy step for me because mine blew out a while back. The next step was to drill out the rivets. Fairly easy. Take the river heads off the bit shank after two or three. They get tough to get off once you have twenty stuck on it. That's where I got to before my project came to a screeching halt.
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So the Garrison part is not actually all that is needed to fix leaky/rattling windows?
 
D

DRYANKNPUL

Active member
RBBailey said:
So the Garrison part is not actually all that is needed to fix leaky/rattling windows?
Click to expand...

No. The videos are a little misleading. I called Zack like Dave said and ordered the plastic rails and the double sided weather stripping. The windows were a bitch to get out. The Garrison video shows them removing a window without any double sided weather stripping and reinstalling without the stripping. I pounded on the corners for a while and eventually got a corner to break free about 5mm. From there it was basically pulling on the frame from the outside until it broke free. Then you have to clean the stripping off the window frame and the body opening. I am waiting for the parts to get here before I can reinstall. I think I'll rebuild the transmission while I wait.
 
G

ghoregon

Active member
I'm also going to be addressing my window rattles with the Garrison Outfitters kit.

Any tips on the double sided weather stripping (I think LR PN is MUC1008). Is this what you all have used for the job or is there a more widely available, perhaps superior, product available from the likes of 3M?

Thanks,
Greg
 
javelinadave

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
I used the LR weather stripping. All I did was peel off the old, clean it well and stuck on the new stuff. I then put the window in place and riveted it in. The toughest part is pushing in the rubber gasket that covers the rivets.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I was kind of annoyed that the kit didn't include the double sided tape. I did the job on the street in Brooklyn, so I couldn't leave the window assembly out while I waited for a new seal. My window frames leak pretty badly at this point. I just need to order some new rivets and do it again.
 
G

ghoregon

Active member
I traded emails with Paul at Garrison Outfitters today. Here is what he said about replacing the foam tape:

Actually the foam stays adhered to the inside of the window frame. Everyone just re-uses it. We?ve sold hundreds of these with no issues. If you prefer to replace the foam any of your Land Rover parts websites will have it but we?ve never had an issue.

You might want to take a look at your plastic runners however. If they?re cracked or split, I would use this opportunity to replace them as well.

Best,
Paul

Paul Shkut
Garrison Outfitters LLC
4804 Laurel Canyon Boulevard #565
Valley Village, CA, 91607
(310) 869-3057
http://www.garrisonoutfitters.com
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
My windows didn't leak until I removed the windows and reinstalled them with the original foam. YMMV.
 
D

DRYANKNPUL

Active member
I finally figured out why I had so much trouble getting the windows out. They were reset with black silicone. I tried everything to get it off, and eventually damaged the paint with goo off. I finally took it to my body guy and he had to scrape it off which damaged some more of the paint. He got it off and gave it a fifteen foot paint repair. I have the frames slicked up and most of the new parts ready to go back on. I overlooked the plastic inside the middle pillar and its cracked on both of them. I've come this far and want to get it right. I had to drill out the screws that held the frame together. I'm certain I made this way more difficult than it should have been. Just make sure you get all the parts before taking the windows out. It has been quieter driving it without the windows in.
 
Dan kemper

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
I just reused the old with zero issues. Stayed adhered to framed as paul mentioned in his response. The pneumatic riveter also helped get a good and consistent seal
 
javelinadave

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
When I did mine I also ordered metal window locks from Masai to replace the failing plastic locks.
http://www.masai4x4.com/Catches-Land-Rover-Defender-side-rear-window-catches-kit-p18362454

60886953.jpg
 
RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Garrison pieces in place now can't open window. Locked better than it was with the latch! LOL!


Silicone spray? Hummmmmmm.....
 
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