Altering seat box

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm thinking more about posting patterns that can be taken to a local sheet metal shop since I can't even make time to finish this one :)! Here are my tool box patterns (without measurements) & a galvanized test piece. Comparison old to new - I just went with a shallower box, since I don't really use it for much & have plenty of storage space in the 110. I figure this will be the side that gets customized more by others, depending on what they use it for. Tool box clamped in place. Looks like I'll be installing a seat box this weekend!

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I had to add a 3/4" offset to the battery box to miss hitting the support arm on my sliders. Alumaseal to fill the cracks, so water and crud don't accumulate where I can't see it. The new seat box can use the old covers. Parking brake lower location - holes drilled.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I had layered angles at the front top edge that gave me a dip down (Land Rover pressed the original seat box panel up to fill this gap), so I added sound liner and sandwiched it with another piece of aluminum. Sound liner in the tool box - I'll top it with a piece of aluminum in the bottom.

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My old tool box has a large plastic plug in the bottom. Is this just to drain/clean? I can't see another purpose for it to be there.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Hit a snag. Placed my Scheel-mann seat brackets & double checked clearance to the doors. I am also installing a Safety Devices interior roll cage that will not allow the new seats to recline - So much for my precise calculations. I have to make the center raised section narrower and lower it 1" to allow moving the seats in enough to clear the roll cage.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Fortunately, the raised section is a separate piece - today I made it 1" lower (which allows the seat edge to clear the raised center), brought the passenger side in 1.5", drivers side .5". Widened each side & made a smaller opening to the tool box, along with a new cover. All so I could squeeze the seat brackets as far in as possible (so much for being able to use some of the original parts). In order to assemble the brackets, and for future access, I drilled a .75" hole in line with the bracket bolt - easy to seal with a grommet. Back to being ready to install it this weekend!


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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Sound lined the seat box bottom & toe kick panel before I fastened the brackets. Cut off the angles that hold the access covers - moving the seat bracket over got in the way.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Success! Seats are in & they miss the roll cage! This took WAY longer than it should have because I had no time to work on it this summer. My patterns are off, due to the changes I made to the completed box to accommodate my rock slider support arms & the internal roll cage, but it turned out pretty good.
Here are some different adjustment pics.

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Covered the seats. Now it's time to do the back floor work, so I can mount the roll cage.
 

ersatzknarf

Active member
Looks great ! Thank you for sharing all that work. Those seats are so wicked awesome, too. Please do share how you like them as you get to use them more and more.
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I haven't updated this in a while. To place the intermediate floor panel - I cleaned up the "heel angle", drilled mounting holes into the seat box rear floor support angle & treated with POR15 to isolate the new metal clips. Installed the seat belt brackets (still need to rivet the upper holes). POR15 the underside of the floor panel, then sound lined it, put foam seals around the edges...

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Mine is bare aluminum at the moment but did 1-2 layers of Dynamat on the underside and inside the battery box.

When I decide to paint the whole truck is when I'll decide what color, etc I paint the interior of the truck. Probably do another layer of Dynamat then also.

I like this idea until I (if I ever) do a full tear down & rebuild. It takes some of the pressure away to not have to finish every piece because every piece I remove needs or reveals more work. I stripped the floor panel except for the stubborn parts & installed the seatbelt & door stops to the Safety Devices rear cage (installed :)).

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Installed the front lower seatbelt brackets. Finished bolting sides & sealed edges to keep dirt & debris out of the cracks.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Added an aluminum panel in the base of the under seat toolbox, so stuff won't stick to the sound liner. Battery box got a panel as well - with supports that allow a 1/2" gap under the battery for drainage.

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I used PCV grommets to let water out & keep crud from getting in. Wire holes drilled. Odyssey battery, Blue Sea fuse block, Maxi fuse & wire ordered.

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