1985 110 RHD 3 Door

nas90tdi

Well-known member
$32,500.00

Truck started out as a really solid Tithonus. I imported this myself about 3 years ago. I purchased it from Stefan. (V8engine on the forums)

I am reluctantly selling, but I am in the market for a new house and could use the cash instead. This may be my last LR after 20 years and dozens of vehicles. Not sure I have it in me any more and I haven?t driven the truck hardly at all this year. All my time has been spent on my Toyota 70 Series Land Cruiser

So, time to pass it on to someone else.


I have put about 8K miles on it since I bought it. About 4k since I swapped engines.

Link to some pictures:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7jrrx4l9bteeh0j/AAC4z-CQ2YllNe0UEoNTVtT1a?dl=0




Powertrain:

300 TDI engine Aprox 125k miles ( Engine was from UD. Uncle Doug was just passing on what he was told when he bought it. Obviously neither of us have any way to verify this. No engine issues to make me think otherwise, however.)
R380 transmission
1.4 LT230
Power steering with new hoses
Slickshift and new turret and bushing
3.1KW starter (RD)
Alisport full width intercooler and silicone hoses
New exhaust
New radiator with new oil cooler hoses
New injectors (RD)
New Borg&Beck clutch ,pressure plate,throw out bearing
Flywheel resurfaced
New clutch fork
At time of install new timing belt,seals,water pump, and thermostat
All hoses,belts,idler pulley replaced.
Turner rear main installed
New parking brake shoes
New output seal in the T/C. I disassembled the case prior to install. No excessive wear on gears or splines.
New HD front springs. Stock Height


Body:

Smooth 3 door hardtop with 4 windows(needs new felt in tracks)
Rebuilt rear door with SS interior skin
Roll up doors with all new seal,guides, handles,check straps,catches and door cards
New lock cylinders
New wing vents
New bonnet protector
New under bonnet mat
New door seals (3)
Industrial enamel paint
Capping galvanized
New hinges w/ SS screws
New mirrors

Add ons:

Masia HD swing away tire carrier
Not sure what the bumper was. I cut it all up,changed the shape and reinforced it. Built a knock off SG skid plate that attaches to it and the front crossmember.
11K Smittybilt winch with wireless control and synthetic line.
Snorkel with correct 300 TDI intake ducting


Interior:

All gauges new VDO Vision series
(Speedo, egt,fuel,water temp,oil pressure,boost,voltage)
New sender for speedo
New switch stalks
New ignition switch. Not a LR switch. (A proper diesel tractor switch with screw terminals on the back. Will not give you the ignition switch problems everyone has)
New steering wheel
Exmoor sound deadening mat
B-Quiet sound deadening
Acoustic mat on vertical surfaces
48? Drawer in back with underfloor storage in front
3/4? rubber mat under and 1/2? on top to quieten the back
Alacantra headliner with 3 LED strip lights on top
Overhead storage along sides above windows and above drivers seat.
Civilian dash
Tuffy console (raised 4? so you can actually use it for an arm rest.)
Safety devices tub stiffeners,frame mounts and seat belt mounts in rear. All galvanized

Electrical:

Odyssey 2150 battery
All new cables including grounds
BlueSea fuse panel
Tru automatic battery isolator
All accessories and headlight fed by auxiliary fuse panel
Headlights on relays
Wipac LED lights Rear fogs are incandescent.
USB and 12V sockets in console base.
Second battery is a NAPA marine battery. Not the greatest battery, but does the job.
Small inverter
Power for reefer in rear
Tons of little misc parts on the truck are new. I don?t like things that do not work correctly.


I have a few projects I have not gotten to yet.
Radio isn?t worth mentioning. Cheapest thing I could find on Amazon that was waterproof.
The battery box in the fuel locker was a sort of proof of concept, but has held up for a couple of years with no issues. It?s a really high glue content EuroPly. But, my eventual plan was to make the housing out of HDPE and put a slide out on the battery.

When I bought the truck I mostly disassembled it and cleaned up the years of Nato Green and resprayed it with an industrial enamel to hold up to pushing through trees. It has done that very well. Interior is painted with the same paint.
Their are the usual MOD dings here and there. I didn?t really do anything with those as I knew I would just be driving the truck through the woods.
I had all the misc steel sandblasted and galvanized. After the first winter I got tired of the softop leaking and flapping.

I was fortunate enough to find the 3 door hardtop from a forum member for a good deal. ,so I pulled the rollcage and installed it and rebuilt the doors and installed them.

Truck has been 100% trouble free except for regular maintenance stuff. Leaking swivel balls, stuff like that.
Tcase leaks from the input seal , but isn?t enough to motivate me to pull it out and replace it.
Swivel balls are dry. I run 90 wt in my swivels.


The big question-Rust

Hardly any.
The rear crossmember has 2 small spots next frame rail that never got cleaned out by the MOD and rusted a small hole in the back crossmember. I cut them back and painted them. Truck was in the desert mostly I think. I pressure washed about 2 wheelbarrow loads of sand out of the frame into my driveway when I got it
Bulkhead had surface rust on bottom when I got it. This has been treated and painted. It has patches at windscreen hinges. But, I haven?t quite worked out why. It?s not rotted there.
Doors I bought from a forum member. They had very little surface rust on them and one small spot through on rear corner of drivers door. I cleaned it out and left the hole. Doors were flooded with OSPHO and then filled with Fluidfilm. It still drips out in the summer.

I spray the undercariage down with WD-40 about twice a year.

Truck leaks a surprisingly small amount of water. Sometimes right by the drivers door will have a little water on the mat and a leak I have never bothered tracking down will get a tiny bit of water in the rear on top of the rubber mat.


This is most definitely a working 110. It was not built to be pretty. It was built to not break me down. It has done that very well.
It will pull a mountain pass with an occasional drop into 4th gear with sub 1200F EGT?s
Fuel mileage is low to mid 20?s
It will cruise 70+ on the freeway, but is a tad squirrelly if you have to brake hard. Not ,oh god oh god we are all going to die, but it?s there. I think it is the tires. I put some new Hankook ATM?s on it my brother gave me from his new truck. Quite frankly, they are not very good tires. They ride much quieter and smoother than the ZXL?s I have, but the sidewalls are much less stable under a heavy truck.



I am sure I have missed something in the description and can take any pictures anyone may want.
This is an extremely solid truck and can be driven day 1. I have made several 5-600 mile trips in the truck with no issues. Starts with a touch of the key and I seldom use the glow plugs unless it's down in the 20's.


I will probably be selling off the parts hoard at some point. I have another running 300 TDi engine ,couple of LT230's, the complete galvanized roll cage from the Tith and a ton of seals,gaskets, and misc parts. I have collected up.



But, I think may be out of the Land Rover business. It's just not what it used to be for me.
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
I definitely will. It's like a Band Aid. Rip it off fast. If it doesn't sell quickly I will change my mind again. Took me 6 months to even make up my mind to sell it in the first place.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Fairbanks ,Alaska. So, definitely not. He is going to fly in a drive back.
I am going to do him an oil change and make sure all the fluids are topped up. And, give him my spares kit. I already carried lift pump, water pump and a few other misc things. That's a long trip.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
It is, I really hate to get rid of it. But, I haven't driven it anywhere this year except to ABFM and to the store a bit just to run it.
So, with the cost of houses around here, every bit helps. So, toys must be let go.
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
It is, I really hate to get rid of it. But, I haven't driven it anywhere this year except to ABFM and to the store a bit just to run it.
So, with the cost of houses around here, every bit helps. So, toys must be let go.

Yeah, it's too bad houses are sooo crazy expensive. It seems though that the housing prices have crested.
Hopefully you at least get to keep the LC and maybe get another Landy in due time.
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
LC is staying for the moment.
I agree, I think the nuts housing market has crested. I am not going to do anything for a few months and see if they continue to fall.
They have started going for less than asking price around here for the first time in 9 years. That's a good sign.
 

LazyRabbit

Well-known member
Smart move. I'm doing the same.

Just curious, what was the sticker on your fuse box? Couldn't make it out. Some military warning about gear box?
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
Its the diff lock sticker from the Wolf trucks.
The other is just the standard R-380 pattern sticker.

I wanted the factory stickers, but I liked the MOD one better so I replaced the one that was on it. Mine was torn.
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
That BJ73 LC in Seattle you posted a picture of on the other site with your truck next to it is the guy I got my roof rack from that I have on my LC.
It's actually 100% stainless. I modified it some and put Frontrunner feet on it. And, painted it black. Little too much bling for me. But, I know it won't rust on me.
 
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