D90 body/tub reassembly

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Should be just shy of an interference fit. We some times have to bend the tabs out slightly (whack with a plastic non marr hammer), position the tub and then another whack, to avoid scratching new paint. I use a thin nylon washer between the steel frame tab and the aluminum body work in an attempt to prevent the galvanic corrosion that eats the tubs behind those tabs.

BTW I have two pair of galvanized bumoerettes like those pictured if anyone is looking.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
thanks, I'm going to flush it up with the horizontal tub brace. that way, the panels and capping will stick out past the xmember only their own thickness. just trying to get it as close to factory position before the final weld up. I have a puma style tab mount bar that I'll be welding to the top xmember, so I can't use that as a guide.

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WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
final fitment of the cross member this morning and all holes punched in tub. spent a few hours sanding out a horrible Bondo job only to find it not really that bad underneath. still needs a skim coat, but the 1/2"-5/8" of putty they had was easily corrected by a body hammer and piece of tube. so much damn dust.



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I have a question. On post 26 are those rivets that you use never seen those before, do the end up being round? How do those work.. Thanks in advance.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
those are cleco's, or temp rivets. I bought them from Amazon after my painter buddy told me they are must with bodywork, especially these rovers.

I got them from Amazon here. $35

I could have used more 3/16 than it came with, so will probably get another dozen or so. Usually wont need that many at once though so depends on what you are doing. These things are gold.
 
I have a question. On post 26 are those rivets that you use never seen those before, do the end up being round? How do those work.. Thanks in advance.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
I have a question. On post 26 are those rivets that you use never seen those before, do the end up being round? How do those work.. Thanks in advance.

Panel pins, for holding your work when putting together.
 

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WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
finally some decent weather to paint today. frame/crossmember is done and at least got some primer and paint on it until I decide to ever fully strip the it completely. it came out well and is pretty beefy compared to the original which was pretty bent up. it's nice to be able to drill and tap the actual crossmember for mud flaps and the tub mount bar.

next weekend I'll mock the tub up and pull the trigger on panel bonding the panels on. needed temps above 60 to even consider it and finally got there.

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WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
first side is finally bonded up. took forever to get the rest of the frame prepped, and bolt everything back together getting things where I think they should be. my painter buddy came over and told me my panel prep was garbage, so hit every suface again with the fiber wheel. A couple rivets, 3m panel bond, and a boatload of clamps should be enough for solihull work. Definitely went a bit overboard but we are both pretty maticulous. next weekend I'll finish the other side. then the rest is just putting things back together so I can drive the damn thing

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Angus

Well-known member
Looking good! Now hurry up and finish so we can go get it dirty. Let me know if you need another pair of hands, I'm in town this week.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Welding is quick. That's why they use it on the line. If it were me, I'd use panel bond. You get adhesion over the entire surface area of the overlap, whereas weld is, well, spotty.
exactly- spot welder and follow up with seam sealer was cheaper and faster than panel bond and wait for product to setup.
It's not hard to find ways to improve on how Land Rover did things.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
other side done. finally. single 20oz tube of 3m seam sealer did both sides, down to the drop. both tub and panels painted with thin layer was all it took. came out pretty well I think, so assembly will continue. I was worried about new crossmember lining up, but with hybrid style tub mount, it made it easier to fit.

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WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Decided to not create more threads regarding reassembly, so consolidating here.

completed:
-crossmember
-tub repairs
-bulkhead corners

In process:
-dash clean and reassembly with alu binnacle mount
-dash wiring clean up and tape
-alignment of tub, roof, and doors

questions:

1. the roof sides and the roof overlap, is there any like the pic or should the side slide in between the gap? it is not yet secured down except at the front.

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2. I would assume the front of the door jamb is the same, the roof piece goes behind windshield frame?

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3. the roof and the windshield frame have a small gap, but likely sealed by the rubber gasket. do folks just silicon that gap (larger on corners) ?

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WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Does anyone know how the bulb holder attaches to the speedo. The hot glue the PO used didn't hold. Looks like a green filament of sorts, but don't want to break the other. Running stock gauges for now. Anyone with an old stock cluster harness not in use? thanks

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NPT90

Well-known member
fwiw I drill and install 1/4 20 rivet nuts for plate mounting on pretty much every truck that comes through here
this, or you could install a plate mount using a similar method (generally they will have adjustable holes though most US plates are standard)
 

NPT90

Well-known member
Does anyone know how the bulb holder attaches to the speedo. The hot glue the PO used didn't hold. Looks like a green filament of sorts, but don't want to break the other. Running stock gauges for now. Anyone with an old stock cluster harness not in use? thanks

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there is 2 of those flimsy housings like the one on the left, I feel like they are just press fit into the housing but for some reason they seem to break fairly often.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
there is 2 of those flimsy housings like the one on the left, I feel like they are just press fit into the housing but for some reason they seem to break fairly often.

I do have the other one, just not sure how it was supposed to go in. Has what looks like some broken green pieces in it and was hot glued with damn near an entire stick. stuck to the metal, not the plastic, go figure. Just wondering If I can actually get that piece. not critical.
 
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