Must Know: 300Tdi

I'm actually a bit worried about the overcooling effect, since this will be one of my daily drivers, especially in the winter, yet I only drive 5.5 miles to work in the morning, then 5.5 on the way back. The diesel will probably only just reach full operating temps on most days. So I plan on making longer round about trips on my way back home from work as a way to try to counter this a bit.

Ben, you should look at getting a Webasto Thermotop-C if you'll be driving in those conditions.

I'd like to argue that overcooling doesn't exist or at the very least is a misnomer. Either your engine reaches your optimal operating temperature as controlled by the thermostat or it doesn't and in that case there's something wrong with it. What we are talking about it long warm up time.

A Thermotop is the right solution for this, especially if you'll repeatedly be driving short drives where the engine doesn't get enough time to warm up. I have had the same issue with mine. By the time the heater is actually blowing hot air I'm already at work.

RBBailey said:

I'm actually a bit worried about the overcooling effect, since this will be one of my daily drivers, especially in the winter, yet I only drive 5.5 miles to work in the morning, then 5.5 on the way back. The diesel will probably only just reach full operating temps on most days. So I plan on making longer round about trips on my way back home from work as a way to try to counter this a bit.

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1. Mobil 1 Truck Diesel Oil
2. Zerex G-05
3. Mahle filters
4. Stanadyne 6" filter .2 micron (final filter) - this filter requires a Stanadyne filter head.
5. I buy my fuel filter from thedieselstore.com. I get my engine oil and coolant from Walmart and oil filters from the best online deal.
6. Don't have an oil presssure gauge.
7. EGT's vary a lot. 500 - 700 in city. 700 - 1000 on highway. I have an Auber Digital EGT gauge that has a red light that turns on at 900 so I always try to keep it below 1000.
8. I'm usually around 190F - 195F or so.
9. B20 (20% biodiesel) is the best fuel additive solution on the market. Opti-lube XPD comes in second best. Fuel up on B20 or B50 occasionally when you can as it cleans and lubes the engine. I've been running biodiesel consistently for 9 years counting and my 300tdi is a happy camper.

RBBailey said:

I'm getting set to get my truck back on the road soon. I'm starting this thread to see what you all can tell me about owning a 300Tdi. When thinking about maintaining a running vehicle, I constantly find myself re-asking all the same old questions. I'm hoping that by having this thread here, I will have a place to jump directly to, in order to find the answers to these basic questions:

1. What type/brand of oil?
2. What type/brand of coolant?
3. What type/brand of oil filter?
4. What type/brand of fuel filter, and what micron size?
5. Where do you buy these things online?
6. What is a normal running oil pressure?
7. What is a normal running EGT?
8. What is a normal running water temp?
9. Do you have any tips, tricks, or alternate parts that you use?
10. What are some warning signs of impending doom?

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Thanks, Carl, I've actually been meaning to ask about where you get your filters. I'm going to get a 5 micron filter, but will be looking to go to the 2 micron when I get the chance.

5 is fine. I think .2 is probably ridiculous overkill. The 6" filter is much longer so make sure you have room for it. I also like Stanadyne because you can get the fuel filter heater or the clear water separator reservoir as an option. If you get the water separator you definitely have to go with a shorter filter. The fuel filter heater kicks in when it's colder than 40F.

Looking at coolant type. I have green in the tank. So I was looking for green that says safe for aluminum, but can't find any. The G-05 stuff does say approved by Land Rover, and for diesel, but it is not green, I believe yellow.

I would like to buy a gallon to have on hand to top off with as long as I have this leak going on. So I'm not looking to flush and fill.

Fyi the oil filter is the same as a the Rover V8 filter and is available at every Land Rover dealer. The part number is ERR3340.

Wix is a very good brand and I think they got bought by Mann and Hummel. Can't go wrong with any of those.

I forget if the TDIs have a water separator. If not, I would consider that a good conversion. While the older engines are more tolerant, it still isn't good to have water in the system. Converting to one of those spin-on fuel filters with the drain at the bottom would be ideal. Then replacement is easy. Water does a lot of bad things to diesel fuel systems.

Yeah, keeping engine temps is good. Helps burn off the fuel vapors that get into the crank case. If you are truly worried about your engine in colder temps, just up the service interval. If the ambient temp is below freezing, then half the service interval.

On my 109, I run a radiator muff below 50F ambient. That said, I have a 160F T-stat, so the second that opened up, the engine never got hotter. So I ran into a lot of issues with engine temp getting to 160F...then never any higher. Google indicated that there is an 88C T-stat available. I'd say run that if you aren't already. That'll help a lot. If you are below freezing often, then radiator muff.

I used the yellow G-05 stuff on my Defender for a good 6-7 years. No issues. Just replace it with Zerex next time.

RBBailey said:

Looking at coolant type. I have green in the tank. So I was looking for green that says safe for aluminum, but can't find any. The G-05 stuff does say approved by Land Rover, and for diesel, but it is not green, I believe yellow.

I would like to buy a gallon to have on hand to top off with as long as I have this leak going on. So I'm not looking to flush and fill.

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I get the Stanadyne products at: http://thedieselstore.com

I'm considering installing one on the G. The heating element is nice in cold weather. If the temp drops below 40F the Element warms the fuel inside the filter before it goes into the engine.

RBBailey said:

Thanks, Carl, I've actually been meaning to ask about where you get your filters. I'm going to get a 5 micron filter, but will be looking to go to the 2 micron when I get the chance.

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Ive got the stanadyne fm100 as well. One of the best features is that you can buy fuel filters for pretty much anywhere. And if you know how to shop you can get those fuel filters pretty cheap. I have mine outfitted with an optional primer pump on the top and the optional clear water retention fuel bowl on the bottom. Works great


I'll be actually finishing up my total Refresh on my fuel system later today. It includes all new lines, a Racor pre- filter, stanadyne FM100 and a new fuel filter. I'll be posting pics

Napalm00 said:

Ive got the stanadyne fm100 as well. One of the best features is that you can buy fuel filters for pretty much anywhere. And if you know how to shop you can get those fuel filters pretty cheap. I have mine outfitted with an optional primer pump on the top and the optional clear water retention fuel bowl on the bottom. Works great


I'll be actually finishing up my total Refresh on my fuel system later today. It includes all new lines, a Racor pre- filter, stanadyne FM100 and a new fuel filter. I'll be posting pics

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Can you do a thread on this? I'd like part numbers and pics.

Already did

Awe, you're gonna make me look it up? Sheesh.....

https://nas-row.com/showthread.php?t=1347

Here ya go. There ante some minor differences with the fuel pump connections on the 300. They are the same pitch and size just different orientation.