Rear waist seal leak

uc4me

Well-known member
Hi all, While removing the rear speaker covers and plastic window trim on my 97 NAS SW I discovered water ingress at the waist seal where the hard top meets the tub. It was not very noticeable on the outside so I was shocked the amt of water getting in..and for some time. I have to believe when i pull the interior plastic window panels behind the jump seats that I'll find a similar gift.


I'm not removing the top anytime soon. Is there a suitable sealant or method that i should consider to help stem the ingress? Thanks for the input!
 

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Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
That's crazy how good the outside looks - you wouldn't even suspect a problem. Without lifting the top, what?!? Clear silicone bead to fill only the outside seam as a temporary seal?
Wouldn't want to trap the water.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
It?s just bolted on. So get new seals and a few buddies to help you lift it off and replace.
 

uc4me

Well-known member
Thanks, with a short term solution in mind I was initially thinking 3M strip caulk on the inside rear as there is room to fit it in but don't wanna trap water, so outside bead seems possible and will research what product works best as that's a tighter space,, but could get messy.

i'll look into what it takes to pull the top but that seems like much more of a project than my summer constraints allow but even if I can tilt one side at a time it would be the best of all solution just not the short term i was hoping for. I've got all winter to poke away at it.

Rocky--how long does it take for you to get up to the northshore..:D
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Rocky--how long does it take for you to get up to the northshore..:D



Depends somewhat on time of day. Burlington max 30 mins, Peabody has been as much as another 30 in rush hour thanks to the 93/128 section.
I try and avoid rush hour when ever possible.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
To completely remedy the issue, you will need to remove the top and remediate the crusty rust. When you peel off the old seal, it's going to be like pulling off a bandaid that dried on a scab, and take more paint with it. (sorry about that graphic, but that's what it is :eek:)

Putting in new seals over top of whats there will just buy you a little time, but with open rusting steel, condensation will just just continue to make it rust further, you won't be much further ahead. There could already be rust under the paint on the outside edge that would then be exposed, and its a slippery slope.

I would remove the top, grind the rust (100% guarantee there's more than you can see) prime paint and re-assemble.

If you are in for the long haul, remove and galv the capping, or you can get galv capping from YRM, get it painted and do the re and re all at once when there's time. There wouldn't be much need to do anything to try to save the exsisting, probably an easier route but a little more costly.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but when it comes to rust, there is always more than you can see.
 

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