DefendersNW
Well-known member
When did you last check timing?
300Tdi rough idle
- Thread starter chris snell
- Start date
500-mile check run
Do I need to run through the whole timing belt change procedure and pull the front cover off?
...or, can I just set the IP timing using this procedure?
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Another update: I bumped up the idle a bit until the motor was in resonance and it's a lot less shaky now. I had done this before but I guess the cable might have stretched a bit and the idle dropped.
I also moved the clamp that was holding two of the injector hardlines together. It was making contact with the side of the air filter housing and making a lot of noise.
I still want to check the timing and probably replace the vacuum pump but I'm feeling a lot better now.
I also moved the clamp that was holding two of the injector hardlines together. It was making contact with the side of the air filter housing and making a lot of noise.
I still want to check the timing and probably replace the vacuum pump but I'm feeling a lot better now.
DefendersNW
Well-known member
Just a check - no need to remove the cover. The timing belt will stretch over time. If you need to adjust the IP a little it can be done with out removing everything.
Gracias. I'll check it out. I was just watching more of those LR Toolbox videos, good stuff. Have you ever bothered using the dial gauge to time the VE IP dead-on?
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vintagepatina
Well-known member
on my 200tdi the plastic collar on the throttle cable backs off almost every time i drive it. i've had to secure it with a tip tie to keep it from doing so.
I was told to use the gauge. I decided to try without it by using a camera and 9mm pin. I could see that the slot was in the retarded position, and I could get the three bolts just tight enough to hold it in place after I adjusted it, if I didn't bump anything on the way out. This allowed me to advance the timing from where it was, by about 1mm. I would guess that I now have it less than .5mm past dead center.
I assumed that this little bit of movement, given that the results were as expected without any noticed adverse effects, was good enough, and that I would use a dial gauge if I felt that I couldn't get it right. But I've left it since.
When I go through the process of putting a new belt on, or if I ever do any work on the pump, I will go ahead and reset to factory, then advance to the 1.64, or whatever it is people say is the perfect number by using a dial.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
Yep, same. Kept me chasing performance issues for a while because it didn't occur to keep checking the throttle cable because "I know I just tightened it". Zip tie fix FTW
Is the throttle what determines the correct engine speed? I would think that with the throttle cable disconnected completely you should have the correct idle speed.
Anyone in the States sell these? Brian?
https://www.asttools.co.uk/diesel-bosch-ve-rotary-injection-pump-timingast4398g
https://www.asttools.co.uk/diesel-bosch-ve-rotary-injection-pump-timingast4398g
I've bought AST tools from my Snap On guy in NYC.
vintagepatina
Well-known member
yes the mechanical throttle stop, adjusted by the threaded rod on the pump, should set the idle speed if everything is by the book.
in my case even with the stop set properly, the collar would loosen while driving causing the throttle to lose significant travel.
would get progressively worse until half the pedal travel was just taking up slop and then i'd have to stop/get out/tighten collar and good again for another.... 2 hours maybe.
1of40
Well-known member
Can you guys post a pic? I have the same thing happening too.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
Simple but works.
Attachments
DefendersNW
Well-known member
Amazon does it cheaper...
Along the lines of RPMs at idle: When I start cold, it will idle at about 900, seems normal, pressure builds, etc... but after about 30 seconds, without me doing anything, the idle will suddenly bump to 920 or so. If I didn't know better, I'd think it was a computer controlled response, but I've always been curious about what's going on.