No Start 300Tdi

I parked it on Saturday evening and pulled the EGT probe. Read the other thread to see why it just took me THREE DAYS to look at an EGT probe, then put it back in. Three. Days.

Anyway...

Once the probe was back in, I turned the key for a test run. Nothing.

Voltage is at 12.8 as it sits. The deep cell battery was charged last week. The starter has about 3k miles on it. The ignition switch, and the ignition module are both new. I did nothing else to the vehicle while it was sitting for the last three days. This is not a recurring problem, it is new.

I'm charging the battery again with a smart charger. I checked all connections that I can see without digging much.

When I turn the key to run, everything seems normal. But when I turn it to start, there is just a click at the fuel solenoid. Not even a half hearted attempt to roll the engine over.

At this rate, I couldn't even sell it to end the misery.

You shouldn't be able to hear the fuel solenoid. When the truck is in the on position (right before the start position on the key ) the fuel solenoid should already be open. You can test and see if it's getting voltage by putting the truck to the on position and checking the spade for 12 volts on the pump.

If you get a click and nothing moves check and make sure that you didn't accidentally pull off the solenoid wire on the starter. Check and make sure that the battery connection on the starter Hot Side is nice and solid and good to the battery.

You may be stuck in between teeth on the starter ring gear. Try putting it in gear and rolling it back and forth little bit.

If you want to try some redneck testing, get a screwdriver and short the two posts on the starter if the engine turns over then try it with the key in the on position and the truck out of gear. It should start. If it does not then your problem is not in the starter circuit. If it doesn't even try and crank when you have the hot side and the other post of the starter shorted with a screwdriver then your starter is bad.

I'll double check what the click is.


https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/1991-hilux-ln-107/6585833074.html
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1992-toyota-hiace-diesel-4x4/6556663974.html


....oh... did I put those there?

The solenoid is clicking as you say, the click I heard in the cab is coming from a relay at the fuses.

I have a couple of hours of work I need to do tonight, I might have time to pull the intake hose and really inspect the starter connections after that. For now, I could only sort of reach and peek and not notice anything odd.

What solenoid is clicking fuel or starter ?

If your truck is equipped with a starter relay as well you may hear that click in the cab.

You need to check voltage for the spade on the starter when you have the key in the start position. If no voltage present, check the relay if equipped then, check the ignition switch...work backwards from the spade

Fuel is clicking as you indicated it should. Also another relay in cab. Can't remember if it has a starter relay, or what that one might be.

I'll try to work on it, but it might be not till this weekend.

The relay in the car is the starter relay.

Step one in starter troubleshooting. Make sure the starter works. You just need to short a screwdriver or similar between the starter solenoid input and output. If the starter is working and you have power and ground, the engine should turn over. Depending on the result will help you start the troubleshooting in the right direction.

30 second trail check is to wiggle the trigger wire on the starter solenoid (ie checking that connection) and then tap the starter housing with a hammer a few times. Truck starts 75% of the time.

Ignition switches for these trucks are complete crap. Have a brand new one that requires you turn the key 5-6 times to get a start. Waiting for a replacement now so the truck can ship to Nantucket.

I seem to remember though that when I’ve had a starter die in the past, I can hear the solenoid pop off, but the starter doesn’t go. That’s when the tap with a hammer works. I’ll try all the tricks when I get the chance this evening.

Been at work since 7 this morning. But I get my summers off, so the 14 hour work days a few times a week are a trade-off....

Anyway, I checked the wires at the ignition, then knocked on the starter. Nothing. So I took a few minutes to open up the space and check all the wires at the starter and solenoid. Nothing was amiss; however, it did start like normal after that.

I'm not sure what I did, but my best guess is that the main ignition wire going to the starter solenoid has a loose connection at the blade connector. It has a sharp u-turn in it as it plugs into the solenoid, and I remember thinking it was a bit of a bend to put right at the end of the wire where it connects to the solenoid. So maybe that's it. I will have to pull it apart and redo that connection if it happens again.

Now... I have to go back to that knock I'm hearing. I swear this engine would be as quiet as my wife's 2008 Mercedes diesel if that knock wasn't there.

RBBailey said:

Anyway, I checked the wires at the ignition, then knocked on the starter. Nothing. So I took a few minutes to open up the space and check all the wires at the starter and solenoid. Nothing was amiss; however, it did start like normal after that.

.

Click to expand...

A few years ago, I thought my RRC was getting a bad starter.
Just a complete No-start condition in my driveway.
Tried the tapping, etc.... no luck disconnected the battery and started to loosen the hot+ on the starter and it was already slightly loose??
So I took it off, applied some dielectric grease, re-tightened it good and it was fine.
I dont know why it wasn't starting, as it was still completely held in place but the bolt was just loose.






Electricity is a funny thing.




.

You do know that dielectric grease is not conductive? You should not be putting it on contact surfaces.

Red90 said:

You do know that dielectric grease is not conductive? You should not be putting it on contact surfaces.

Click to expand...

Of course.


It is more protective I guess.


My battery terminals are coated with it ,too.

Once the connections are tightened, the metal is contacting and the grease "protects".


Anyway, Ben, check all those connections!






.

Jeff B said:

Of course.


It is more protective I guess.


My battery terminals are coated with it ,too.

Once the connections are tightened, the metal is contacting and the grease "protects".


Anyway, Ben, check all those connections!






.

Click to expand...

Sorry you have to deal with this here

Uh?

The attitude, not yours