Gas Strut Rear Door

Anyone do their own?

It seems like you could modify the back door with a strut of the proper length for about half the price of a ready made kit. Has anyone done this?

I considered it, but it looks like they all use the same Piston (Britpart, Bearmach, Naka). Britpart comes with stainless plates, like the naka, but much cheaper. I can't imagine that one is much better than the other. I don't think the hassle for me at least is worth any potential savings.

What I did wonder is it forces the door open, or you can stop it partially as to not hit something parked behind you or something.

$75 on lrdirect, or $103 on eBay (>2002)

For what is costs to buy the strut and making the brackets I bought one from LR Direct for $51 plus the ride.

https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1204-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-BRITPART.html

The strut force is 400N, about 100 pounds.

Where does that one mount?

Just installed one from sdo. Comes complete. I used factory bracket on tub. Opens with full size spare and carrier. Initial assist to about mid way open then can stop it or open all the way. But my spare is a 305/70

That is a good price. I think these struts with the ball joints are about $30-$40. The catch would be getting one of the right length. But if I have something else to order from LRDirect, I might call up that DA1204 number again.

Fitting instructions:
http://paddockspares.com/downloads/DA1204_vr1.pdf

I had every intention of building my own but for $51 and it has stainless steel brackets it wasn't worth the effort.

What part of the door does that strut attach to? I'm concerned that there is nothing left of my door enough to bolt into at that point.

Naka has a top of the door mount version if you are wary of the lower mount. I considered it as well.

Anyone know if these work with the Mud UK rear door card without a ton of cutting? Pic?

What about keeping the door from going too far? It seems like the moment it extends to it's fullest, it will get pulled too hard, or the door will keep swinging and bend the strut.

I can’t find the top version of the strut. Anyone have a link!

So with some careful measuring, and by using a spacer behind the existing bracket at the door, then by using one of the brackets not in use for the passenger doors (because of the roll cage install) I managed to create a gas strut thing for the cargo door. It actually works very well; however, it really highlights how weak the Defender itself is.

My rear door is bad, so I just bit the bullet and drilled straight through to put some nice long bolts through. They are plenty big, and the bracket is plenty strong, but the door itself is.... I'm sure it will pretty much slowly get crushed by the repeated opening and shutting of the door. Also, for the bracket that is inside the door, that point is very weak as well. Even the backing plate was already bent when I pulled that bracket off. The side of the cargo area where that bracket is mounted bulges out when you open the door.

The stock configuration/build of the cargo area is too weak. And I'm pretty sure a new door would be too weak unless you were to drill all the way through like I did with my old rusty door.

I only spent $30, and a trip around town, but I'm afraid it may end up being more problematic in the long run. I'm betting the strut is putting too much pressure on the door. Is there any cure for this? I can't weld, and I suspect that a proper job to rebuild the door would be the same as buying a new one.

rocky said:

I can?t find the top version of the strut. Anyone have a link!

Click to expand...

https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/optio...863/nakatanenga-rear-door-damper-top-mounting

I have installed both the upper, and lower before (on a Puma door). I found the lower to be more secure on the door.

One of the nicest features is the soft opening. Well, that and not having a door with a 50lb. tire on it swing it's self closed, crushing you... It's all about the simple pleasures of a luxury automobile...

I?m going to have to uninstall. It works as I had hoped, keeping people from getting killed by it swinging shut, but it is basically ripping out what is left of the bottom of the door. At least I have the kit for when I get a new door!

Here’s what I got: https://www.flickr.com/gp/bhcmbailey/9x7k3q

The strut is doing what it is supposed to do. If your door is falling apart then you need a new door or remove the strut and go back to how it was.

Yeah, see post #16 above.

I had a new door for $300 a few months ago, but couldn’t convince the bank to let me buy it.....