The problem here is that Defender disc brakes are a pain to work on.... The hub needs to come off to change the rotor. The 90 drums are stupid simple. If you were comparing normal car discs to drum, the argument would hold water, but not in this case.
Value of D1 vs just axles for D90 swap
- Thread starter WreckITFrank
- Start date
The problem here is that Defender disc brakes are a pain to work on.... The hub needs to come off to change the rotor. The 90 drums are stupid simple. If you were comparing normal car discs to drum, the argument would hold water, but not in this case.
John, I get what you are saying.....but I can't like non self adjusting drum brakes.
I'm a hater
I'm a hater
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
So finally got a chance to see the disco. Floors are toast, but exterior and doors are decent. It also runs but has an astounding 270k miles on it. Interior is not all that bad. Axles are fully oil coated so not the worst with rust. At this mileage, is it even worth it for the axles? I assume they'll need a rebuild most likely. If parting out can fund the axle rebuild, them I'm game. Otherwise just move on to some yard axles with half the mileage ( that may need rebuild anyway?)
TF 3" w/ about 20k miles. Wheels and noname tires in decent shape.
Thanks again in advance.
TF 3" w/ about 20k miles. Wheels and noname tires in decent shape.
Thanks again in advance.
We use the following for defender builds:
steering
axles and radius and trailing arms and rear wishbone
engine wiring loom and ecu
heads, injection system, y pipe, block depending on milage
trans and transfer case, shifters and linkage
front drive shaft (solid vs defender tube)
frame side engine mounts and rear tcase frame side mount brackets
Sell the carcass to scrapper to get it out of here -typically get $120-140, never pull glass, interior, anything .07 lb.
Have found there is next to zero demand for doors, seats, interior panels etc so have discarded 8 trucks less the list above in the past 12 mos. We only buy the 96-99 gems trucks for donors.
You said you wanted it for its vented front brakes and disc rears. Disco 1's didnt have vented front brakes. I put vented rotor/caliper setups on these axles all the time but wanted to give you a heads up they aren't there stock. If its local and cheap its hard to go wrong for less than 1k.
steering
axles and radius and trailing arms and rear wishbone
engine wiring loom and ecu
heads, injection system, y pipe, block depending on milage
trans and transfer case, shifters and linkage
front drive shaft (solid vs defender tube)
frame side engine mounts and rear tcase frame side mount brackets
Sell the carcass to scrapper to get it out of here -typically get $120-140, never pull glass, interior, anything .07 lb.
Have found there is next to zero demand for doors, seats, interior panels etc so have discarded 8 trucks less the list above in the past 12 mos. We only buy the 96-99 gems trucks for donors.
You said you wanted it for its vented front brakes and disc rears. Disco 1's didnt have vented front brakes. I put vented rotor/caliper setups on these axles all the time but wanted to give you a heads up they aren't there stock. If its local and cheap its hard to go wrong for less than 1k.
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks, I'm going to make an offer and see where we land.
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
The vehicle didn't work out, as there was too much unknown with that many miles. Pulled the trigger on a decent front and rear axle set, with plenty of ancillaries still attached. Since the rear of the vehicle is apart, I will work on that end first. The rear did not come with calipers, so need brackets which seem impossible to find and calipers. Prices are not that bad, but without a core they would cost more than I paid for the axle, which is why i guess they are not on there.
That said, what is the best way to go on calipers? Stock disco 1, or is there a better version of something that fits. Is there any other vehicles that are interchangeable to keep an eye out for?
Thanks.
That said, what is the best way to go on calipers? Stock disco 1, or is there a better version of something that fits. Is there any other vehicles that are interchangeable to keep an eye out for?
Thanks.
I put Defender 110 callipers, pads, and rotors on my D90 which is the same as a D1 rear axle.
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks, I assume they are an upgrade over the stock D1's. Likely more difficult to source but good to know that's an option.
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Looks like lucky has them on eBay for $100. These will work with 110 or disco caliper brackets?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/112336552038
Would these larger brakes mess with valve proportioning? I don't want to get into pressure issues.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/112336552038
Would these larger brakes mess with valve proportioning? I don't want to get into pressure issues.
Robert
Well-known member
I'm running those calipers and matching rotors on a disco rear axle along with the front defender vented rotors and matching calipers. It works well, the proportioning valve had the same part number when I investigated. I was surprised, so feel free to double check that. A nice bonus is the D1,90,RRC pad retention springs are crap and for some reason possibly due to supplier quality the pads rotate in the caliper, the 110 uses solid pins and totally eliminates this problem.
edit: looks like prop valves may be different, anr 1415 vs anr 3194. Using anr 3194 works fine for me, no abs, single line to the rear tee fitting
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks for the info Robert.
I think I have all this straight. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Front options:
1. D1/D90/RRC, with D90 being best due to larger piston.
2. D90 vented option from a NAS 90
Rear:
-D1/D90/RRC (STC1264/65)
-110 (STC1268/69), but new prop valve suggested?
As Robert seems to be running on a D90 valve over the 110.
I think I have all this straight. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Front options:
1. D1/D90/RRC, with D90 being best due to larger piston.
2. D90 vented option from a NAS 90
Rear:
-D1/D90/RRC (STC1264/65)
-110 (STC1268/69), but new prop valve suggested?
As Robert seems to be running on a D90 valve over the 110.
Robert
Well-known member
I'm only considering 300tdi era parts. Looking at the parts catalog, A NAS 90 uses the same front brakes as a ROW 300TDI era 90/110/130. its the same vented front rotor as a NAS RRC, but the caliper is 46mm pistons instead of 41mm. They all have the same footprint, single line to each caliper unlike the ABS RRC
Mine is on a Disco. Since the front and rear calipers all went from 41mm to 46mm the braking proportion is unchanged and the stock disco anr3194 works fine for me.
A 90 uses ntc8836, 110/130 uses anr1415. I don't think I'd change this on a 90 since they are so nose heavy as it is, but a 110 should probably get the correct part.
Robert
Well-known member
There have been several vehicles made that dynamically adjust the rear braking force based on cargo weight. A built 90 with an increased rear weight would benefit from this.
Can you even lockup just the rear with a awd center diff vehicle? Front would have to accelerate to 2x the rotation speed while fighting brake forces. Maybe if a throttle stuck while braking