110 brakes

Boswalt

Well-known member
I took my 110 down to Portland this weekend and, just as I?d been told, my brakes are not up to the task. It?s a 1987 exmod and I?m running an LS based 4.8 in it so it goes pretty good. Just doesn?t stop real well.

I looked at Forbyn Brothers kits and they?re awesome but out of my price range. What other options are out there that won?t make me sell a kidney?

I was hoping someone has already been down this road and has a parts list.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Fix the stock ones. They should be quite good. You should be able to easily lock up all four wheel at highway speeds. It helps to change to the newer (larger) booster and most likely the rest of it can do with being replaced.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
You have the tan/green MoD with the light bar on front? Really sweet truck! I meant to come back around and say hello, but was always getting sidetracked by everything.


I want to see a 110 lock wheels while rolling fast!
 

Boswalt

Well-known member
It has the older style solid rotors. You can stand on the pedal and not lock up anything. If you want to stop, you gotta plan ahead.

Is there a newer style with a larger caliper and a vented disc?
 

Boswalt

Well-known member
You have the tan/green MoD with the light bar on front? Really sweet truck! I meant to come back around and say hello, but was always getting sidetracked by everything.


I want to see a 110 lock wheels while rolling fast!

Yeah, that?s me
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
https://nas-row.com/showthread.php?t=1346&highlight=Salisbury+brake

I did this and converted the Land Rover pedal box to use a GM style Corvette master and Corvette booster. The 1 1/8 in master is about one-fifth the price of the Land Rover part and works about a hundred times better. If you haven't already converted to disc in the rear now is the time.

My brakes are so powerful now that I have to run a bias valve to reduce pressure to the rear or they will lock up before the fronts. I can turn that bias valve down for off-roading and Towing.

I also happen to be running front calipers in the rear so I have 4 piston brakes front and rear all using solid rotors. But rotors and calipers are your option
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
It has the older style solid rotors. You can stand on the pedal and not lock up anything. If you want to stop, you gotta plan ahead.

Is there a newer style with a larger caliper and a vented disc?


It sounds like you probably have a combination of a failing or old booster, a weak master, partially seized calipers, old fluid and a stuck pwda valve.


All of the calipers that fit on the front of Defenders, are very very similar with only minor differences in piston size and Pad area and brake lines. they are so similar in fact that they all use the same mounting bolt pattern.

Vented rotors won't allow you to stop any quicker but will reduce brake fade, I actually prefer the solid rotors because they are cheaper and I am cheap
 

Robert

Well-known member
All of the calipers that fit on the front of Defenders, rrcs and discos or very very similar with only minor differences in piston size and Pad area and brake lines. they are so similar in fact that they all use the same mounting bolt pattern.


25% more piston area for the vented front brakes from a NAS 90 or 300tdi era ROW. The 300tdi era ROW rear 110 stuff is also 25% bigger than 90/disco/rrc rear calipers.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
The rears you may be right but the fronts, I'm not so sure. When looking at vented and solid calipers side-by-side the Pistons are exactly the same size. The only difference is a spacer.
 

Robert

Well-known member
The rears you may be right but the fronts, I'm not so sure. When looking at vented and solid calipers side-by-side the Pistons are exactly the same size. The only difference is a spacer.


sorry I meant compared to a rrc or disco. its 41mm vs 46mm diameter. I have no idea what a NAS 110 or older has for front brakes
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
I am running the 292 which goes fast and my brakes were poor, so I replaced all the front with new parts and converted the rear to disc brakes.
They are solid rotors and the 110 stops fine.
 

Red90

Well-known member
25% more piston area for the vented front brakes from a NAS 90 or 300tdi era ROW. The 300tdi era ROW rear 110 stuff is also 25% bigger than 90/disco/rrc rear calipers.

That is not true. All 110s had the same sized pistons from day one.

His problems are due to something broken in the system, and not the design.
 

Red90

Well-known member
It sounds like you probably have a combination of a failing or old booster, a weak master, partially seized calipers, old fluid and a stuck pwda valve.

All of the calipers that fit on the front of Defenders, are very very similar with only minor differences in piston size and Pad area and brake lines. they are so similar in fact that they all use the same mounting bolt pattern.

Vented rotors won't allow you to stop any quicker but will reduce brake fade, I actually prefer the solid rotors because they are cheaper and I am cheap

This is it. Like I said, the only real difference from 86 is they put in a larger booster. Since you could probably do with a new master and booster, it is best to change to the newer style. Get rid of teh PDWA at the same time as it might be part of the problem. Caliper and rotors never changed. You can put discs in the rear, but the drums stop just as well.

The poor braking is due to one or more failed components. When in proper condition, the brakes should be strong and let you lock up the wheels without undue pedal force. Replace all flex lines and check that all pistons are free. Make sure you have quality pads and shoes and that the shoes are properly adjusted.
 

Robert

Well-known member
That is not true. All 110s had the same sized pistons from day one.

His problems are due to something broken in the system, and not the design.

As mentioned in the following 2 posts that was in reference to rrc/disco calipers
 
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