D1 Axle Swap

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Well yea that is also called a mudshield but not the one I was thinking of . I'd run it as it keeps shit out of the area behind the hub

the reason it feels rubber-coated probably because the axle or the truck was waxoiled /undercoated at one time
That's the one. I've seen on some UK forums that it is questionable to keep or not, but I think if I grease it a little with some anti corrosion grease, it might help with any water getting between it and the stub axle.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Well it's not meant to keep water out or in. It's meant to keep rocks and sticks from getting stuck back there. I wouldn't try and make it a real seal it's just meant to keep big chunky items out.

For example if you don't run it and drive over some crushed gravel or something a rock can get jammed inside of the back of the Hub and then rattle around like crazy back there until it falls out or gets stuck.

It's definitely not made to keep water out. without all the rubberized crap your has sprayed all over it it's just a simple piece of sheet metal



Either way you're on the right track. FYI Amazon has a really inexpensive $8 brass drift
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Cleaned and sanded the axle housing and decided on por15. So will just blast it to remove remaining paint and ensure it's clean. Half rust, half paint won't do well with POR.

Question of the day is with the axles. The pic shows unmatched wear patterns. Any reason these are not fit for reuse? The splines don't show any heavy wear.

Thanks
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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Hit them with some red Scotch-Brite and they're good to go. Top one is a little crunchy but it isn't a real important seal anyway

you're going to want to top coat the POR 15 on the axle tube with Rust-Oleum or some other UV stable paint. It will get chalky if you do not. You also have to put the top coat on when the por-15 is still tacky. I did my axle tubes with por-15 and Rustoleum about 3 years ago now. Looks great

FYI por15 is designed to be painted over rust. It has a wetting agent in it that allows it to adhere to rust and encapsulate it. It may just be marketing speak but I did find when I did my frame 15 years ago on my F150 that the por15 did not stick well to sandblasted clean metal.

In this last iteration when I did my axle tubes I scraped and sanded and wire wheel them then did a coat of ospho/prep and etch this prepared the bare metal for adhesion with the POR 15. it's a quick process and por-15 suggest that you do this on bare metal.

Good luck
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Did you both get to complete bare metal? My fear was that the old paint I won't likely get 100% off, and the etch would further lift it. Sandblasted and etched I thought might do it for adhesion.
 

Red90

Well-known member
The only long term POR adhesion I?ve gotten was with sand blasting. 12 years on my fuel tank with nasty winters and still looks like new. Any other prep and it peels in 2 to 5 years.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Yes bare steel. That shiny part where the ball joint will go is way too smooth .

The prep and etch is about $15 a gallon and takes about an hour to do. No sweat

Works with or without blasting
 

Red90

Well-known member
I?ve tried all of their preps and it does not stop the peeling. I?m not sure if you experience salt and gravel for six months a year. It tests coatings.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
We are saying the same thing here John. that bare metal it won't stick to sandblasting will help and prep and etch will help even more.

Por-15 is designed to go over rust , not bare steel. I don't expect you to remember that I lived in upstate New York/ New Jersey with my truck for eight years before I moved to California.


Either way op is on the right track, keep plugging away !
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
regarding Goodridge brake lines. Is there any change in which kit I should get? Will the D90 kit (+50mm) work fine? I know the rear is the same, but wasnt sure on front, as I may or may not use the D1 calipers.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
regarding Goodridge brake lines. Is there any change in which kit I should get? Will the D90 kit (+50mm) work fine? I know the rear is the same, but wasnt sure on front, as I may or may not use the D1 calipers.

I used the standard D90 kit.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I used two of the extremely ultra small tiny cans to do a rear Salisbury axle. then top coated it with oil-based rustoleum. Seven years , still great.

I didn't sandblast my axle housing I just used a wire cup wheel .
 
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