Turn Signal Lever

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I kid you not, every time I was tempted to put that stupid cover back on the steering column I stopped myself and said, “Self, you know the moment you reinstall that thing, one of those wires will catch fire, or the switch will fall apart in your hands!”

....I installed it last weekend.

This morning the stupid turn signal/bright light switch went POP! And now the thing flashes high beams whenever I accelerate or go over a bump.

Question: is this one of those items that you only buy genuine from Rovers North, or are any of the aftermarket brands reliable?
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I think I have a NIb one that I don't think I'll need since I added a relay for the headlights.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Let me know if you find it.


Also... what do you mean you added a relay, so you aren't using this switch?
 

Red90

Well-known member
A relay for the headlights. The stock wiring runs all the power through the switches and that is what kills them.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So people use a different switch for headlights? How about brights?



Mine broke some plastic piece, was it brittle from overheating over the years?
 

Red90

Well-known member
No. They use the stock switches. They add relays for the lights so that the power goes through the relays and not the switches. This prevents the switches from dying.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Ah, I was imagining he was saying he didn't need it because he eliminated the switch somehow, thus he didn't need it anymore.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Questions:

  1. What is the difference between STC439G and STC439?
  2. For the relay harnesses, that just fits between the existing headlight plug and the headlight itself, and I assume it gets its power from a circuit I provide, like the extra one I have in the Blue Sea fuse box under my seat?
  3. But if I get an LED kit, I assume the amp draw is lowered enough that I don't need the relay kit?
 

NPT90

Well-known member
1. G usually designates 'OEM' component vs britpart or similar.
If it isn't insanely cost prohibitive I recommend going genuine when you can.

2. Some vehicles have a headlamp relay behind the gauge cluster (as best I can tell). Mine is aftermarket, Red Bison and the fit was reasonably good and straightforward.

3. I would always instal the relay harness as the headlamp switch, while inexpensive, is a PITA to change, your current draw for the headlamps should go through a relay regardless of your light choice
 

Red90

Well-known member
2. Some vehicles have a headlamp relay behind the gauge cluster (as best I can tell).

To clarify. The stock headlamp relay used in 1994+ trucks does not reduce the current load on the switches. It is there to turn the lights off when the ignition is off.
 

NPT90

Well-known member
To clarify. The stock headlamp relay used in 1994+ trucks does not reduce the current load on the switches. It is there to turn the lights off when the ignition is off.

Good to know!

Kind of a silly use of a relay, so you can't turn the headlights on with the ignition off then...
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So I installed the new Lucas turn signal lever. All seems fine, except for right turns. When I go left, it clicks the ratchet, then snaps back to center as it should when the steering wheel turns. But if I make a right hand turn, the blinker comes on, but as the steering wheel clicks past that first ratchet click, it disengages the blinker, and the lever snaps back to off.

I thought maybe the steering column cover was mounted oddly, or that the blue collar really did have an up down orientation, but even after removing the steering wheel, I can move the blue collar back and forth by hand, and I get the same results....

Did I just buy another new in box defective part? Or am I missing something about the installation that should be obvious, but...?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, I inspected the thing today, and it seems like the problem is that the rubber boot that surrounds the switch arm is stiff enough that when the signal is turned to the right, it has enough back-pressure that it is just barely hanging on. If a slight bump occurs (like turning past the ratchet point) the arm springs back into the neutral position.



So I'm applying some conditioner to the rubber, and I'm leaving it in the right turn (up) position whenever I am parked. I think, but I'm not sure, that this is starting to make a difference. It seems like it is not as sensitive. Hopefully it will loosen up by tomorrow, and I can drive like normal.
 
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