Carb Issues - 1987 3.5 V8

NMEXPAT

Well-known member
A little update on my situation. This past Friday I got some unexpected time off from work and the weather was perfect, mid 70's with low humidity.

I removed the intake air cleaner and intake boots. The right carb is the problem. There was gas in the intake boot on that side alone. The float valve is surely sticking open.

I've made the decision to go ahead and remove the original intake manifold and SU carbs. I'm going to install an edelborck manifold and 4 barrel carb. I can spend basically the same amount of time dissemble and rebuilding the carbs as replacing the entire intake. Plus if there are problems in the future, I know which idiot to blame, me!

After I replace everything, going to change the oil because there surely is gas in it now.

Just need the time off to do the replacement and the oil change. Should be easy. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

NMEXPAT

Well-known member
An update on my intake manifold situation.

First I must be a huge idiot because I can't figure it out. From the various edelbrock manifold threads on the internet I haven't seen this problem discussed yet, regarding the water neck / thermostat housing.

The one that came with my truck and on the stock manifold looks like this.

IMG_20180407_040106-L.jpg


It is clearly not compatible with the edlebrock 2198 manifold for two reasons the water temperature sensors and the by pass hole is missing.

Therefore I ordered this water neck, four seasons 84853. It easily fits on the edelbrock manifold and the bypass outlet lines up. The problem is that it clashes with the vacuum advance on the distributor as shown below:

IMG_20181025_154748-L.jpg


So what's the "correct" water neck to order? Yes I'm aware of the one from ta performance http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1535

Before I order the one from TA performace, I'm concerned I'll have the same problem. I tried another water neck which has a different angle, shorter length but both holes don't align and the clash remains with the vacuum advance.

I see Rimmer sells a water neck for this conversion but is currently out of stock.

Surely there has to be a water neck / thermostat housing in the US that actually works and has a by pass connection and a vertical (12 o clock orientation) for the main hose and bolt hole spacing is correct.

Do I change my distributor for one without vacuum advance?

Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks for helping the person who has to be the biggest idiot on this board. In addition to frustration and I'm feeling just plain dumb. These trucks are so simple, but I'm just missing something.
 

Robert

Well-known member
easy fix. remove the distributor and rotate everything a few teeth counterclockwise. You'll likely not be able to get it 100% right and need to reset the timing
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Simply shorten the elbow you have ?

I have re-used the ones that came off the rover manifold but none looked like the one you picture.
 

NMEXPAT

Well-known member
If anyone is interested here's an update on the situation with the water neck.

I tried shortening one, but the hose still ended up hitting the distributor with the hose connected

IMG_20181026_094542-L.jpg


IMG_20181026_094517-L.jpg


I contacted the company I bought my defender from, since they offer the edelbrock carb & EFI conversion service. I asked them what water neck they used to solve this problem. Hindsight being 20/20, I should just have paid them to do this. Although I'm learning about my truck, I want to drive it instead!

Well it turns out they either have them custom cast or a special order from a place overseas. It has the bypass hose connection as well as the correct angle.

In the end I bought one from them. Fast FWD a few weeks later, I finally have some time along with great weather.

This water neck solves the problem entirely!

IMG_20181116_104821-L.jpg


IMG_20181116_104821-L.jpg


IMG_20181116_104749-L.jpg


I can provide their contact information if anyone wants it!

Just waiting on a new lokar throttle cable and thottle cable bracket to come in. Should be an afternoon away from getting my defender running again!
 
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rlynch356

Well-known member
Where did you get that water neck and the hose?

I?m about to do the same thing to a 3.5 except with a holly sniper 2bbl efi.
 

NMEXPAT

Well-known member
Another update on changing the intake manifold and carburetor. Great weather this past weekend in South East Texas. Family allowed me some time to work on the defender.
I finished installing the throttle cable and throttle cable bracket, temporarily installed the fuel lines, now with pressure regulator and fuel filter, with the return line connected, temporarily installed some of the coolant lines.

My defender is running again and not leaking fuel or coolant. Taking a slow and methodical approach work for me, since I've never tackled something like this before. My first attempt at starting did have a minor hiccup. I connected the vacuum line for the distributor advance to the wrong point on the carburetor. After checking my work, I found the mistake and move the connection over. She started right up and ran like nothing has happened. I expected leaks, rough running and other unforeseen issues.

Before I drive her around, I need to make a mounting bracket for the fuel pressure regulator and trim the fuel hoses to make it clean and tidy. I also need to finish the coolant lines. For the connection on the water pump and intake manifold, I had to use 3/4" I.D. hose, which turns out to be too large for the heater core connections. I think the heater core connections are 5/8" I.D. I need to get two 5/8" to 3/4" adapters for the hoses then everything will be plumbed correctly.

It was a great weekend to finally get 95% complete on this task.
 

rlynch356

Well-known member
He got it from Sam at royal overland…
It’s from one of the UK sellers though..
I found one direct but can’t find the receipt anymore
 
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