Rebuilding the Fuel System

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
5 micron is about a small as you should go. any smaller and you risk causing flow issues maybe?

anyway the stanadyne can go as low as 1 micron. stock is 20 micron, i think?
 

Red90

Well-known member
I use a 2 micron Stanadyne filter. I've not had any issues. CAT did a big study on the effect on injector tip life versus fuel filter size and found a significant increase in tip life by going down to 2 micron and you will see all of their equipment with 2 micron final filters for this reason.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah, it's the same one. I just moved it to a place where it's actually possible to unscrew the filter without removing the mount!
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I use a 2 micron Stanadyne filter. I've not had any issues. CAT did a big study on the effect on injector tip life versus fuel filter size and found a significant increase in tip life by going down to 2 micron and you will see all of their equipment with 2 micron final filters for this reason.

Right, I remember reading into this.
 

The_Vermonster

Well-known member
A higher micron rating won't do much of anything for these engines. The difference between a 2 micron and 30 micron filter is less than 0.5 psi of pressure drop. You'll see a bigger drop from a dirty filter.

The Micron rating is also in some ways marketing. Each company decides how to rate their filters. The exact same filter could be listed as a 2 micron for one company and a 5 micron for another. It all depends on their testing procedures, which they don't advertise. For instance, Stanadyne's 5 micron filter still filters out ~93% of 2 micron particulate. The same exact filter branded for Donaldson is listed as a 5 micron. I believe CAT and Baldwin are similar to Stanadyne. So Micron is a good way to compare filters within a brand, but not great to compare across brands.

The original filters were in the 20-30 micron range. As Red mentioned, we now know that better filters save injectors.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I use a stanadyne and a cat branded 5 micron filter , cause why not ? It looks cool
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Update: I’ve been working on this for a week, and I’ve managed to undo the drain plug to remove the 6 gallons of fuel left in the tank.

Next month I plan on scheduling some time to have set aside in June to undo the bits to get prepared to unbolt the tank in August.
 

ghoregon

Active member
Update: I?ve been working on this for a week, and I?ve managed to undo the drain plug to remove the 6 gallons of fuel left in the tank.

Next month I plan on scheduling some time to have set aside in June to undo the bits to get prepared to unbolt the tank in August.
Damn, that's funny...and totally relatable!

Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm trying to remove the fuel tank today, but the two forward bolts are spinning and I can't tell what type of wrench or socket or what I need to hold the top end while undoing the nuts on the bottom. They seem to be covered with a tab, and I can't make out what shape the actual bolt head is.


EDIT: Part of confusion is that on the diagrams, it shows a bolt going up from bottom, but I seem to have the bolt coming down from the top, so I'm not seeing the same thing that I see in the diagrams for parts.
 

DiscoDavis

Well-known member
I'm trying to remove the fuel tank today, but the two forward bolts are spinning and I can't tell what type of wrench or socket or what I need to hold the top end while undoing the nuts on the bottom. They seem to be covered with a tab, and I can't make out what shape the actual bolt head is.


EDIT: Part of confusion is that on the diagrams, it shows a bolt going up from bottom, but I seem to have the bolt coming down from the top, so I'm not seeing the same thing that I see in the diagrams for parts.

130-tank-filler-assmebly-4.jpg


What you are seeing is number 8 in the diagram (interferes with access to the bolt heads). I have seen the bolt head on top and nut on the bottom so don't follow the diagram exactly, its easier with bolt head top nut bottom

I had the same problem. the tops of the bolts are 'locked' by a thin piece of sheet metal tabs that bend over them (#8). If yours is rusty and dirty like mine were I had almost zero access to get to the bolt heads above.

Easiest way is to take a grinder and cut the nuts off the bottom side. You can find very suitable bolts at any hardware store. I reassembled with a new tank and bolts and omitted the 'locking' tab, instead used lock washers and nuts bottom side so now to disassemble you can get a 17mm wrench on the heads.

EDIT your gas version may be different
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I see it now, turned upside down and with the dirt scrapped off!


Am I going to need to pull the sway bar?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Now what is going on with my vet line? The diagrams do not show the blocked off T-junction seen here.
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
That's the tank vent it doesn't matter if it has a blocked-off t Junction.

You can leave it like that or just cut the t-junction out and Slide the hose down. It obviously isn't doing anything.

when filling the tank from the side you probably see some foam or fuel spitting out the top of the filler neck when you're close to full. That fuel being pushed up the vent line. It's Perfectly Normal and what should be happening
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah, I just am not sure what to think of things when it is different than the handbook.

I had to use a disc to cut the hose off. ...I hope I can find one for less than the $50 Rovers North wants. Would be nice if it is a size that I could get at NAPA.

Next: Pretty sure I need a new fuel tank. What do you all recommend? I really don't want to have to buy genuine if I possible -- $$$$!

Also, I need a new set of sway bar bushings. What do you recommend? I at least need the four main bushes, probably should get them for the frame mount as well.

Would like to order tonight since this has taken me a week to get this far, and if I don't finish by next Sunday, I'll be driving the Series in the rain with no heat...
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
It looks a lot worse in the photo, but still...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/45853126141/in/dateposted/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4821/45853126141_d2788c0dd8_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

The_Vermonster

Well-known member
If you want fast, then Rovers North can't be beat for anything in stock.

Cheap and reasonable fast, LR Direct. But make sure to get items that they say are in stock. I had a few items that were not and took 2 weeks to get. Not fun.

If I understand, you want to go back to the side pickup version, aka , external pump version. If so you want NRC7570. It comes with a seal and locking ring for the sender. The "cradle" was a PITA to get on so I did not put it on mine. I will probably get an aftermarket skidplate instead. The sender you want is PRC8463. The filler tube should be NTC2337, but someone will have to confirm, I ended up not needing it.

For the sway bars, I ended up getting the entire ball joint because it was only like $8. It had the bushings already pressed in and had the castle nut and locking pin. NTC1888 should do all 4. Front bar to frame rubber should be
NTC6828. Rear should be NTC7394.

Edit; be careful of the minimum qty with LRDirect. With a given item, some brands will be super cheap, like $0.17, but you have to order 30 of them. Another brand might be $0.40, but you can order less.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I waited a total of over 12 weeks for three different orders from Rovers North during the process of putting this thing back together. But usually, they seem to be fast with the normal items.


Put it this way, I already have the sender and pick-up and return and seals to convert the original type of tank. I assume the original lift pump is adequate to get me back on the road, as it has been so far, but I plan to put an electric pump in line when I get the chance. I'm thinking Bearmach or ProLine?
 

The_Vermonster

Well-known member
From what I have heard, Proline is just the RN "brand name." They source good quality parts from other companies and call them Proline. Bearmach and Britpart do the same. LRDirect does it with the "Original Equipment" brand; it's not OEM and it's not genuine LR, it's something else, normally britpart.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah, I have some ProLine stuff here and there.


Which of these tanks is the same I just pulled? I probably want to keep going that direction as this whole thread has been about! LOL
 
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