Made in USA 12V diesel pumps

chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I'm looking for a 12V diesel pump that's made in the USA. Something in the range of 9 PSI and 30 GPH.

I've been running an Airtex E8012S on Robert Davis's recommendation but mine crapped out after a year and from the online reviews, it looks like my experience is pretty common.

Amazon is, of course, flooded with a ton of E8012S clones from China and they all look equally crappy. Surely some company makes something similar here in the US that costs 3x as much but doesn't fail after a year. Right?


fuelpump.jpg
 
R

Red90

Well-known member
Why would it being made in the US ensure it will be good? What a strange way to judge equipment.

The Facet Dura-lift pumps have a good rep.
 
V

Viton

Well-known member
I've been using this since 2000 to pump diesel from my AUX tank into my main tank. This way I don't have a complicated fuel gauge situation in my custom sized & built 14 gal. AUX tank. I mount this pump forward & in the rear passenger wheel well. Seems to pump about 1 gal. per minute. I have a dash switch to turn it on & I've tapped into the dash lamps, the one that is usually used for low fuel, to remind me the pump is on when lit.

Summit Racing has a lot of different types pumps made by Carter.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4594/applications/fuel-type/diesel
 
Uncle Douglas

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Stay away from the green Mr Gasket pump sold @ many auto parts stores. Total crap- reviews are abominable. Given how most are using these, make sure you get a constant duty pump, not a transfer pump.
 
rocky

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
That's the same psi/gph spec as you'll find in an 80's GM 6.2 and 6.5 diesel powered truck or van.
 
C

copleymotorcars

Well-known member
about a year ago i spent much time researching this for my 200tdi and landed on the delphi FD0040. it's typically in stock at most auto parts chains.
 
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
elbee said:
So once you get one of these pumps. Where is the best place to wire it up to?
Click to expand...


Mine is wired to a Blue Sea Systems panel that is switched by a relay that gets signal from the ignition switch. I wired this signal by cleanly adding a jumper wire to a vacant spot on the fuse panel on the bulkhead behind my gear shift.


ignition -> fuse panel fuse -> fuse panel fuse -> relay -> Blue Sea panel
 
LiquidMoose

LiquidMoose

Well-known member
I?m new to the LR diesel world and needs some clarification regarding these electric pumps.
Does the electric pump eliminate the need for the mechanical lift pump, and if yes,
is the mechanical pump left in place or removed and the boss blanked off.
On a related issue: is the inline pump forward of the sedimenter used to only prime the system then is turned off or is left pumping away?
Thanks!
 
R

Red90

Well-known member
It is to replace the lift pump. Not sure what people are doing with the original pump. I know Robert hates them, but I've not seen any problems with a quality mechanical lift pump. Certainly with the reports of electric pump failures, it does seem like you are just changing something without a real benefit.

Tank -> Sedimenter -> Electric Pump -> Fuel Filter -> Injection pump.

Don't forget the sedimenter in any system. It is critical in preventing electric or mechanical lift pump failures.
 
Dan kemper

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
I too am in the camp of don’t get the electrical fuel pump. Super easy to change out the mechanical and cheap as well. Someone enlighten me
 
C

copleymotorcars

Well-known member
for me, my mechanical lift pump died and i was able to pick up an electric replacement same-day from the local auto parts store.

it also makes your fuel system self bleeding and self priming.

and, not so much in the land rover world but in the greater bosch ve pump diesel world, low input pressure from an under performing lift pump is known to cause the injection pump to cavitate and/or overheat (the inj pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it). this is mainly known on big horsepower dodge diesel and super high rpm vw tdi fitments, but the principle is the same with the land rover application.
 
donb

donb

Well-known member
Red90 said:
It is to replace the lift pump. Not sure what people are doing with the original pump. I know Robert hates them, but I've not seen any problems with a quality mechanical lift pump. Certainly with the reports of electric pump failures, it does seem like you are just changing something without a real benefit.

Tank -> Sedimenter -> Electric Pump -> Fuel Filter -> Injection pump.

Don't forget the sedimenter in any system. It is critical in preventing electric or mechanical lift pump failures.
Click to expand...


I have a Carling switch that controls the electrical pump. Like Adam and Robert say it's self bleeding and is available for operation if there is an issue with the mechanical lift pump.
 
R

Red90

Well-known member
The mechanical pump bleeds the system fine as well.

VWs did not use a lift pump. The injection pump sucked from the tank right through the filter.

I ran my 200tdi for two years with a broken lift pump without knowing it. There were no ill effects.
 
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I run both the mechanical pump and the electrical pump. There seems to be no interference. The truck still runs if the electrical pump fails and I assume that it will still run if the mechanical fails.

Like others, I like the electric pump because it makes bleeding the fuel lines a cinch. I just turn the ignition on without starting the truck, crack the bleed screw, and in a couple of seconds, it's bled. The mechanical pumps are also total crap and fail frequently.
 
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