Rebuilding the Fuel System

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
This item NRC4757 the spacer for the forward mount was not on my truck...? Should I ignore for some reason, or is the spacer really the only way to do it?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Is this the square spacer NTC2837?

By the way, my frame is galvanized, it looks horrid in the pics, but this is all dirt from Dubai and Turkey. It will look a lot different here when I?m done with this project.
 

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK... last question for tonight. I'm not sure which tank to get that is most like the one I currently have. NRC7570, NTC2017, ESR2000, WFE000190....? And I think I missed two.



I think one of those has two or three extra vent ports on the passenger side next to the filler tube, but none of the photos are consistent enough on any of these to know which one fits. I've had too many things ordered badly, sent badly, or sent damaged in the past few years to pull the trigger on something without being 100% sure of what I'm getting.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Don't worry too much about the part numbers. Some have been superseded.

You need part number:WFE000190

https://rovahfarm.com/defenderfuelsystem.htm

It's a little bit further than halfway down the page.

It is a 2 hole style tank. AKA meaning two Major holes one the top and one in the side plus the filler neck hole, the filler vent line and the one extra vent that you will block off.

I posted a humongous thread on this specific task you may want to just search for it cuz it has every part number
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Thanks, that's kind of what I figured, but with the problems i've had....

I did see that thread, and I'll go back and review it.

...here's hoping a clean fuel system with good flow will make the last few little issues I'm having iron out a bit. I've long thought that what I'm seeing is a fuel related problem. I really don't think my ringing knock will go away, but there are a few other things that make me wonder if I couldn't get a little more performance out of the engine by doing this job. Either way, I think the pic of the inside of the tank shows that this is a job that needs to be done.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Thanks, that's kind of what I figured, but with the problems i've had....

I really don't think my ringing knock will go away, but there are a few other things that make me wonder if I couldn't get a little more performance out of the engine by doing this job. .

Saw this cartoon the other day and I thought of you and all the worries you have.
 

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
How will I know if the cradle is still good to use off of my truck? I didn't think of it at the time, but when I pulled the tank out, the cradle just came with it. I think it is stuck on there with all the gunk from the leaks and dirt.

My parts are supposed to be here on Monday!
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
its spot welded, non removable


maybe Get the tank from bearmach i think that one came with it and has cheap shipping. Make sure to order at least one lock ring and rubber sealing washer as they are flimsy


just for my curiosity if you dont mind pulling the fuel pump from the top and snapping a pic , it would tell us alot about your issues


EDIT: when putting in the return elbow in the top make sure to use ARP thread sealant on the screws as they are through holes and it will weep.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I did order the Bearmach. I just assumed that thing would come off since you can buy them separate. I would like to get a proper shield though anyway.


I should have the seals and such from the sender/pickup and return that I ordered before. Just have to dig them out of storage.



And yes, I'm going to pull the old tank apart just to see what happened.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So I've cleaned things up and I'm ready to install, but I was not able to replace the bolts as seen in post #82 above. I'm not sure what I'm looking at. They appear to welded to the frame? But there is a protrusion on the top side as well. Any thoughts?

The bolt is "usable" but I'd rather figure out how to replace them.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
That looks like a threaded stud that's been put in to a threaded hole. Maybe just double nut it and back it out. It looks fine though I'd probably just use it
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I thought it was one of the plate bolts that come in the ?kit? of things to buy to replace the tank. I ordered some replacements already.

Gee. I wonder if I need a new tank... I suppose it’s too much to hope that this could be something that helps the engine run better?
 

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Where should I put the sedimenter? Seems like no matter where I find a spot it will fit, it won’t work there for some other reason.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
The td5 fuel filter Location is a good spot. Holes are usually there as well or the same spot just on the interior of the frame instead.

I have my pre filter in this spot
 

The_Vermonster

Well-known member
My chassis has some hexagonal holes right next to the Rear spring mounts. I bought a pack of Rivnuts from McMaster Carr that fit tightly. I tired a DIY tool to install them but it didn't work. Get a real rivnut tool. I can send you 2 rivnuts if you need. They're a 3/8-20 thread.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I found a spot that should work: Inside face of the passenger seat box. I think this thing is larger than what most people are putting into their trucks. It hangs down past the frame if I put it anyplace on the frame. The back of the rear outrigger almost worked, but the piping was going the wrong direction. As it is now it is away from heat, spinning tires, up away from most mud splashes, and is easy enough to reach to drain when it needs it.

So far, I have the old system torn out, sedimenter in place, and the line run from the sedimenter to the lift pump. I get the parts tomorrow, and hope to have it done by the end of the week.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
That will work but normally you want the sedimenter/prefilter as close to the fuel tank as possible
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I think this might be my last question before buying a few bolts and getting everything put back together.

I'm still not sure how to replace these items. I bought new ones, as shown in the photo, but I don't know what I'm looking at on the vehicle. Do they drop down from the top? Do they slide into a slot that I'm not recognizing? Is what I have on the vehicle welded onto my frame?

The studs that are on the vehicle are OK, but I'd really like to get the new ones installed and used.
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NPT90

Well-known member
for simplicity's sake I would just take a wire brush to what you have and copper slip the hell out of them. Otherwise figure out a different mounting option.

Those appear to be weld on, if thats the case you are probably wasting a bit of time if yours are fine
 

Red90

Well-known member
Pretty sure you should be able to reach around the lip to insert the new studs. They don't build the cross member with them inside. ;)
 
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