4JG2T in 110

nas90tdi

Well-known member
I am researching engine options in my 110. Obviously my easier option is a 200 or 300 TDi. But, having had those engines, they are still a bit underpowered.

I am considering an Isuzu 4JG2T as they are readily available for fairly cheap, with low mileage, and after doing a ton of research on them for my Trooper, I think they are a really good engine.

Has anyone done any business with Conversion and Precision Engineering in the UK? They have an adapter kit that utilizes the R-380 and LT-230. I have sent them a message asking which bell housing this is set up for.

Any thoughts? Possible pitfalls to fitting this in the engine bay of the 110?

On the plus side, it seems like an interesting project with the possibility of it being a fantastic upgrade.
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I'm going all Horsey on you and moving this thread into the Technical forum, where I hope you'll get more of a response.
 

Grnrvrs

Well-known member
Look into the 4JB1T instead. It has a much better reputation for longevity.

I am researching engine options in my 110. Obviously my easier option is a 200 or 300 TDi. But, having had those engines, they are still a bit underpowered.

I am considering an Isuzu 4JG2T as they are readily available for fairly cheap, with low mileage, and after doing a ton of research on them for my Trooper, I think they are a really good engine.

Has anyone done any business with Conversion and Precision Engineering in the UK? They have an adapter kit that utilizes the R-380 and LT-230. I have sent them a message asking which bell housing this is set up for.

Any thoughts? Possible pitfalls to fitting this in the engine bay of the 110?

On the plus side, it seems like an interesting project with the possibility of it being a fantastic upgrade.
 
They say the best conversion is the Mazda 3.5 tdi conversion done by M&D engineering in the U.K.., leaves the Isuzu and Land Rover engines in the dust...and conversion kits are available for the r-380 transmission...now if you could just find one of those kits already done ready to go on this side of the pond...:)
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
They say the best conversion is the Mazda 3.5 tdi conversion done by M&D engineering in the U.K.., leaves the Isuzu and Land Rover engines in the dust...and conversion kits are available for the r-380 transmission...now if you could just find one of those kits already done ready to go on this side of the pond...:)

Speaking of, when was the last time that motor ran? You should have put it in any of your trucks. Mine drives like a Disco V8 but has the 1.003 t-case ratio.
 
Speaking of, when was the last time that motor ran? You should have put it in any of your trucks. Mine drives like a Disco V8 but has the 1.003 t-case ratio.

Actually ran it about 6 months ago...and then fogged it with fogger as I cranked it over... and sealed everything back up..it's a single wire system so I strapped it down to the cart it's sitting on and fired it up with a bottle of diesel..
 

nas90tdi

Well-known member
I honestly am not that interested in making a Defender fast. I have had a 300 hp 4.6 RPI engine in one and my nephew owned one of the ECR 5.2 D90's Mike built. Honestly after the fun wore off, it just wasn't really that important in daily driving. Though, I will say being able to cruise up a hill was really nice.

So, while I am not really opposed to the Mazda engine or the 4JB1T, cost wise and my usage seems to make the 3.1 appealing. I put no real miles on my Rovers, and seldom actually leave them together long enough to need an engine to run forever. They are never a daily driver and might take a few long trips ,then park.

I am just about an hour south of Vancouver also so parts, and engines ,are fairly easily sourced as they seem to come into Canada more then the states.

I am mostly looking for unforeseen problems with fitment. The oil filter housing interference for example. I have not come up with a firm plan for overcoming that which doesn't require a bunch of machine work.
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
Cost wise then, I'd keep an eye on ebay UK and autotrader.co.uk and landrover net forums. I picked up an entire running range rover(minus some range rover doors) with the professional SL35TI conversion intact for 800gbp. Get something like that even with shipping you'd be ahead of the game in conversion costs.
 

Grnrvrs

Well-known member
My personal favorite is a 4BD1t intercooled and mildly tuned. I have zero issues here in CO up any of my local hills. It's not quick but it is fast(enough, 75+ uphill).

The 4JB1T is an entirely different engine, and well worth considering for a repower if you are looking at used motors, along with the MB OM617. In the new motor arena, I would want to know more about the baby Cummins.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
The 4BD1t is a huge 3.9 Liter low revving clunky industrial box truck engine that easily runs out of rev capacity.
I have driven 4BD1t powered Perente 110.
It has plenty of power if you don't mind the short shifting.

I have a 110 with the 4JB1-T mated to a stumpy (short belhousing) R380.
The longer belhousing transmissions push the engine right over the front diff which will destroy the aluminum oil pan, but the stumpy places the engine far enough back to avoid oil pan interference.
The only issue is the stock lower coolant pipe places the lower radiator hose just above the diff where the hose rips open on full rebound.
I machined an adapter that bolts to the block and routes the hose differently eliminating the problem entirely.
It will go 80 MPH and is a very smooth engine.
The 4JG2-T has a bad reputation for lack of longevity and is inferior when compared to the 4JB1-T.

Conversion Precision Engineering is good to deal with, but their motor mounts use the hard rubber hockey puck setup that passes all the vibrations to the frame and body.
I made metal mounts that bolt to the stock 110 4 cylinder frame that use the big hydraulic filled Mercedes mounts that absorb all the engine vibrations.

My conversion went very well and I prefer the 4JB1-T over any other diesel engine with the exception of the 2.8 liter Iveco engine used in the Land Rover Santana PS-10 which I like almost as much, but not quite as much as the 4JB1-T.

The Mercedes OM617 is also a good choice for a conversion because it is very cheap and very plentiful.

Here are a few pictures of the 4JB1-T in a ROW RHD 110 below:
 

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nas90tdi

Well-known member
I remember seeing your Mercedes engine mount post. I liked that idea. Did you have any oil filter interference Robert? I keep finding mention of that, but not a single picture of what the hell they are talking about.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
I remember seeing your Mercedes engine mount post. I liked that idea. Did you have any oil filter interference Robert? I keep finding mention of that, but not a single picture of what the hell they are talking about.

There is not any oil filter interference with the 4JB1-T.
Added some pictures of the install to post #13.

Don't get me wrong, the Mercedes OM617 is a great conversion with an engine that will run on almost any combustible fuel and drive for a million miles. With the M-IP it will get up to about 250HP.

I just like the 4JB1-T, it is very very fast, but not available in USA.
The OM617 is very easy to find in USA and the Mercedes Dealers can get most any part for them at a reasonable price.
 
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nas90tdi

Well-known member
That is my thought. I am a huge fan of the OM617. But,as you said, out of the box. Not that peppy. I was more talking about you using the engine mounts themselves. It makes a ton of sense they would isolate the engine better then a rubber puck mount.

That means the 4JG1 would not interfere either. They are the same block essentially. That is why I asked. I could not see where the interference would come in and with no pictures documenting it, I could not figure out what was being said.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
Well there are a few pictures in Post #13 showing the mounts themselves.
I can make copies of them at cost if you decide on that engine family.
Think there is a 4JG2-T in the engine room of my workshop, but I've never compared the bolt pattern of the 4JG2-T block to the mounts I manufactured for the 4JB1-T shown here.
 
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nas90tdi

Well-known member
I like those. That allowed you to maintain the frame mount location, correct? Was that a V8 or 4 cyl mount previously? I can't quite tell where they are in relation to the truck.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
I like those. That allowed you to maintain the frame mount location, correct? Was that a V8 or 4 cyl mount previously? I can't quite tell where they are in relation to the truck.

From Post# 13: "I made metal mounts that bolt to the stock 110 4 cylinder frame that use the big hydraulic filled Mercedes mounts that absorb all the engine vibrations."

Mtanzania on D90 Source showed one of the 4JG2-T engines in a RR Classic.
In that thread, he used an oil filter relocation kit for some reason, but I think it was ease of changing the oil filter, not because of clearance issues, but can't be 100% sure.
This install used the R380 where as our 4JB1-T install in our 1993 RR LWB Classic used the V8 ZF.

The thread was under: <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr valign="bottom"><td>
</td><td width="100%">Defender Source > Classifieds > For Sale - Vehicles </td></tr><tr><td class="navbar" style="font-size:10pt; padding-top:1px" colspan="3"> 1993 RRC LWB w/ Isuzu diesel and R380 </td></tr></tbody></table>
Is that thread why you assumed that there were oil filter clearance issues in the 110?

The 110 and RR Classic are very different vehicles with very different engine compartments/bulkheads.

I can tell you that in our 1993 RR Classic LWB install with the 4JB1-T mated to the ZF V8 automatic that there are NOT any oil filter clearance issues at all, so that need not be a concern for you.
 
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nas90tdi

Well-known member
No, that is not where I got that. It has came up in discussion on several occasions on the UK and Australian forums. That is why I said I wish they had posted pictures. I wonder if it the difference in using the stubby vs standard bell housing putting the engine further forward. But, since you have seen physical proof that it doesn't interfere ,that's good enough for me.
You answered the question I had because you have actually done it. Not knowing the players on the other forums, it could just be random chatter and they have never actually done anything.

I am talking to Doug right now about the 300 TDi he has. I might just get lazy if we strike a deal and go the easy route for now. I know exactly how that works, so it becomes a simple and quick project. I might start gathering parts for the other route if I drop the 300 in and just revisit this in a year or two. It's not like putting the 300 in and out is hard or time consuming.
 
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