AdamSanta85
Well-known member
An hour to warm up on highway? I'm at operating temp on highway within a couple minutes
Lights on front affect cooling?
- Thread starter Classic4X4
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An hour to warm up on highway? I'm at operating temp on highway within a couple minutes
By using components of various MotoRad Thermostats, I run a 198*F in the summer and a 203*F in the winter.
Start with their basic 319-192 T-stat, if you need to go colder get a 319-180
(the last 3 digits of the part number is the temperature of the wax pellet that causes it to open) Their units have a +/- 3*F range of opening.
Find T-stats from the catalog that have 198*F or 203*F or even 205*F as the last digits to get the one you want. There are also high flow T-stats but those will probably cause the coolant to flow too fast and not get the temp you may desire. The 205*F I built causes the engine to run at about 209*F and on my VDO gauge, the distance between 210* & 220* is a very narrow distance so I choose to stay away from that T-stat. Pay attention to the height, width (top & bottom diameters) of the T-stat and be sure yours matches the specs of the 319-192
The rubber gasket that works for all of these is MG29.
To change the T-stat seasonally, open the coolant reservoir, remove the cap from your radiator. Syphon off about 1 gallon of coolant, take off the 2ea. 8mm bolts that hold the T-stat housing, change T-stat. By this method you will only lose a few drops of coolant.
Putting a radiator muff on will only keep the engine compartment warmer and NOTHING to raise the engine operating temperature or keep the cabin warmer.
Start with their basic 319-192 T-stat, if you need to go colder get a 319-180
(the last 3 digits of the part number is the temperature of the wax pellet that causes it to open) Their units have a +/- 3*F range of opening.
Find T-stats from the catalog that have 198*F or 203*F or even 205*F as the last digits to get the one you want. There are also high flow T-stats but those will probably cause the coolant to flow too fast and not get the temp you may desire. The 205*F I built causes the engine to run at about 209*F and on my VDO gauge, the distance between 210* & 220* is a very narrow distance so I choose to stay away from that T-stat. Pay attention to the height, width (top & bottom diameters) of the T-stat and be sure yours matches the specs of the 319-192
The rubber gasket that works for all of these is MG29.
To change the T-stat seasonally, open the coolant reservoir, remove the cap from your radiator. Syphon off about 1 gallon of coolant, take off the 2ea. 8mm bolts that hold the T-stat housing, change T-stat. By this method you will only lose a few drops of coolant.
Putting a radiator muff on will only keep the engine compartment warmer and NOTHING to raise the engine operating temperature or keep the cabin warmer.
Good lord. What a huge hassle. Why? I'm toasty as hell at -40 with a stock thermostat and no radiator muff and have never overheated on the hottest days, pulling a heavy trailer up long mountain roads with an 8274 1" from the front of the radiator.
NPT90
Well-known member
I think its been pretty well established that the lights have very little to do with radiator cooling from everything I have read.
x2 from Red90 seems like you shouldn't be dealing with overheating issues on a diesel at all unless the Tstat has failed or you have a clog in a hose/exchange
x2 from Red90 seems like you shouldn't be dealing with overheating issues on a diesel at all unless the Tstat has failed or you have a clog in a hose/exchange
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
It's not his lights. My lights are in same spot, same truck, same engine. Non issue.
Went back and read the thread.... The OP did not have a cooling issue. He seems to have a power issue. He needs someone to look in person and get it adjusted properly.
The thread resurrection was RBBailey. He needs someone to look at his truck badly. More time has been spent discussing it on the internet than a complete ECR restoration takes.
Viton just made a random post in the middle of everything that had nothing much to do with anything in this thread.
I'm not worried about overheating, I keep my eye on it, have a coolant alarm, etc... But I would like to get warm within 5 minutes of non-highway driving. There is very little heat that comes through the vents, even when the engine is full temp.
What have you done to change this? If you're toasty when you drive in the arctic, why can't I get warm enough when the weather is in the 30s?
Viton: I'm pretty sure a radiator muff does make a difference to engine temps. There would be something wrong with the system if a muff would cause an overheat in normal circumstances, but... Otherwise.... why do we even have a radiator that is exposed to the movement of air? Why should we bother at all with the problem of having water running through the engine block, and in keeping that water cooled?
If the engine is getting to the proper temperature and the heater air is not hot, then your heater needs an overhaul or adjustment. They all do at this age. First check that the hot/cold cable is adjusted to hold the flap tight to the hot side. If that does not solve it, the heater needs to be opened up, the flap foam replaced and the matrix sealed.
To keep hot in the arctic...
- You get rid of the drafts.
- You insulate where needed.
- Get the heater working like new.
- Make sure you have a leak free thermostat.
I've got a new heater core, and the fan blows "well enough". The various flaps are working correctly. And I actually have some insulation on the heater box itself.
I do have some drafts that I hope to address this coming week, actually. But it's interesting that my dash vents and the foot/defrost vents have vastly different temps -- 15-20 degrees -- even though they are coming from the same source! And even when the truck is running full temp
I will be flushing the coolant and putting in yet another thermostat this week.
As far as the original thread is concerned, I was curious about whether or not getting better grounding ended up matching his temp gauge to what he was seeing with the IR thermometer. And also if his low power issues were ever resolved.
I do have some drafts that I hope to address this coming week, actually. But it's interesting that my dash vents and the foot/defrost vents have vastly different temps -- 15-20 degrees -- even though they are coming from the same source! And even when the truck is running full temp
I will be flushing the coolant and putting in yet another thermostat this week.
As far as the original thread is concerned, I was curious about whether or not getting better grounding ended up matching his temp gauge to what he was seeing with the IR thermometer. And also if his low power issues were ever resolved.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
why not try an upgrade ? I put a few allisport matrix into peoples trucks. That along with fixing what red said, cutting the bulkhead hole larger and swapping the Fan to the GM style is about as good as its gonna get without adding a webasto or another aux heater
I also found that even in my soft top 110 if you have a rear bulkhead adding a "fume curtain" vastly improves the warmth in the front two seats
I also found that even in my soft top 110 if you have a rear bulkhead adding a "fume curtain" vastly improves the warmth in the front two seats
Well, I just rebuilt the one in the wife's 110 and the air is smoking hot. I should have taken pictures. You can do a better job than stock with supplies from Home Depot. Next step is modifying the dash vents to improve flow.
In the 90, I have a custom heater and it is much bigger than needed for any temperature. The air will burn you. When I did that one, I measured the performance of the stock fan and showed what needs to be modified to improve performance. The bulkhead hole is not a restriction. The lower dash vents are very restrictive. Opening them up makes a big difference.
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
Talking about heat in diesels... Heated seats went a LONG way for me.
I'm looking to buy my third thermostat, and the Stant keeps coming up, so I searched for the actual number, but when I find a number, it is only when in reference to the 200Tdi, I need the 300Tdi -- are they the same? Which PN do I actually want for a 180 degree stat? I might buy a 190 degree to try that as well.
Here's what you need
180*F T-stat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorad-319...5?epid=75242858&hash=item3f7f709a09:rk:1:pf:0
And the gasket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cool...e:g:4tIAAOSwtVdbl0Qj:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true
300Tdi stock OEM unit would be Motorad 319-192
Javalina Dave here runs this set-up (180*F) in Phoenix
180*F T-stat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorad-319...5?epid=75242858&hash=item3f7f709a09:rk:1:pf:0
And the gasket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cool...e:g:4tIAAOSwtVdbl0Qj:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true
300Tdi stock OEM unit would be Motorad 319-192
Javalina Dave here runs this set-up (180*F) in Phoenix
I have used the stock, I don't know the brand, just picked it up local, but my truck never wants to warm up enough. Red90 suggests that they are leaking.
That's why I want to go to Stant, and probably try the 190 so as to keep it fully closed all the way up to those points when I'm on a hill, or on a warm day.
I thought Javelindave was running the Stant at 180???
That's why I want to go to Stant, and probably try the 190 so as to keep it fully closed all the way up to those points when I'm on a hill, or on a warm day.
I thought Javelindave was running the Stant at 180???