Salisbury Axle Disc Brake Conversion

Shearpin

Well-known member
Getting around to dealing with the brake system on my 110?s Salisbury axle. New brake lines, calipers, discs - lots of new parts.

My 110 came with a disc brake conversion done. The calipers are stamped Lockheed 3247-637C. Based on my internet research this part number corresponds to a d90 front, part# SEB500450.

I am trying to avoid basing my order on information collected from assorted ebay ads. Looking for knowledge. Am I safe ordering SEB500450, and the corresponding discs and fasteners?

Thanks...
Henry
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
That part number corresponds to a front caliper for solid discs. So if you need to order caliper Hardware pads or Diss order that type and the solid disks.
 

Shearpin

Well-known member
Got Coffee - as Red90 mentioned there have been a lot of conversions done using various Land Rover parts. Here is one list of possible part combinations I have found - http://www.dieselrover.ca/uncategorized/salisbury-rear-disc-conversion/.

Am I right to assume that once the caliper mount is on your axle you are free to use any of the land Rover calipers - as long as you couple it with the proper disc? So far I have found one part number for the caliper mount. Leads me to believe this is true...

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks again,
Henry
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Long story short three types of calipers: front vented and non vented and rear calipers.

You can get brackets for a rear sals for either front or rear calipers. Rotors are dependent on caliper choice


Here is the super overkill version that I did :

[https://nas-row.com/showthread.php?p=10860]
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
I used early 110 front spindles, hubs, rotors, later rear 110 calipers that have the cotter pin that holds the brake pads.
Cut the old drum brake backing plate spacer to position the Salisbury caliper mounting bracket that had to be machined.
There may be a way to use the rear rotors with the early spindles and hubs to avoid having to machine the Salisbury caliper mounting bracket, but haven't tried that yet.

There are multiple ways to complete this job using different parts from different vehicles.

I loathe the rear calipers with the brake pads that sit in with a raised area like the disco I.
The pads can shift and make the rear brakes useless.
 

Red90

Well-known member
There are a few ways but usually one of two is used.

1) Use early wide front hubs. Normal rear calipers and rotors. Regular caliber mounts with a 6 mm spacer. The spacer can just be some plate. You do not need to machine it.
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/11685-drum-brake-110-salisbury-disc-brake-conversion/

2) Use all late model parts and bolt it up just like a stock later axle rear disc setup. You need hubs, stubs, calipers, rotors, calipers mounts, drive flanges and axle shafts.

There is no point in using front calipers as it is way too much braking and you will just need to use a bias valve to cut out most of the braking to prevent rear lockup. The main reason for the front calipers is for people running fiddle brakes. They run two pistons on the regular brakes and the other two on the fiddles.

If you want a bit more braking because you are heavy the very late model trucks use a larger rotor in the rear with two piston calipers.
 

Shearpin

Well-known member
Thank you for the response Red90...

The Lockheed part# I mentioned corresponds to Land Rover part #’s RTC4498 & RTC4999 - front D90 calipers. Since I am going to replace calipers and rotors, would it be a straight swap to replace them with the proper 110 rears STC1268 & STC1269? Based on the photos I’ve found it appears the caliper mouting bolts don’t have the same pattern...

Thanks again,
Henry
 

Red90

Well-known member
You will have special caliper mounts made for using the 4 piston calipers on a rear axle. You would need to change to the normal mounts with the correct rotors and possibly spacers depending on the hub being used in order to fit the regular rear calipers.
 

Red90

Well-known member
You first need to find out all the parts that are there. Does it have narrow or wide hubs. Maybe take a picture and post it up.
 

Shearpin

Well-known member
Thanks for the responses...

I have convinced my wife 3 across the bench seat in the Series III will be a cozy way to take my daughter to camp this weekend; so, the pressure is off.

I’ll remove the brakes and take an inventory of what parts have been used...
 

Shearpin

Well-known member
RDavisinVA - thank you for the link.

You have used the calipers I would prefer to use. Unfortunately, my conversion was completed by a previous owner with what looks like D90 front calipers. I am not sure.

My 110 has been a lesson in patience. I prefer to have my repair parts on hand and get the job done during the evenings. Brighty, as I refer to it, requires quality time sorting part #’s.

Henry
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Fix is easy.

Making it right is as simple as getting another pair of caliper brackets.

You were already going to buy new calipers and rotors, just buy the ones used on disc brake salisburys.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Why change the calipers and rotors I'm still confused why? Just get the proper replacements. It's a non-issue having front calpiers in the rear...it's actually beneficial for heavy towing and steep decents when loaded heavy.

It's the stetup I have and works great.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Oh ,must have missed that !

Don't revert dude ! Why spend money to get LESS performance?
 
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