Non OEM oil filters?

Classic4X4

Well-known member
What's the census on non OEM oil filters? I found this in store Mighty M2901. Physically identical and fits well. Was listed as an alternative to the OEM LR filter I currently have in the 200TDI on mech database.
 

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El Pinchi

Well-known member
Certain Non OEM filters IMO are just as good if not better like the K&N Gold. It has a anti-drain back design which is what you should always use. Price wise it’s not cheap but I would never skimp on quality filters or fluids. You get what you pay for. I have a V8.
Do you drink cheap beer? Haha!
 

BarryO

Well-known member
For my NAS rig, I heard (a long time ago :) ) the OEM filters were made by Wix. They also make Napa Gold filters. About 1/2 of LR Genuine, and available everywhere
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
For my NAS rig, I heard (a long time ago :) ) the OEM filters were made by Wix. They also make Napa Gold filters. About 1/2 of LR Genuine, and available everywhere

I think they jump around with suppliers. Some of the boxes say Poland (Wix), Germany (Mann) or Austria (Mahle).

I have my doubts the Wix filters available in the states are manufactured in Europe since they have a few domestic plants as well. Does it matter? Probably not.
 

LRNAD90

Well-known member
I've used the K&N filters without issue myself. I like the nut welded to the top as well, nice when its time to take it off..
 

1of40

Well-known member
The point of reference that I go by is my 90 has 170K miles, of which I've put 140K over the past 14 years. I have always used whatever non-syn oil that is on sale with whatever free oil filter that comes with it. I also take it to my local tire shop for their basic $19.99 oil changes w/ free tire rotation.


I change my oil between 3K-5K miles.


Back in Oct/Nov I had my oil tested and it came back with very high marks. I was curious if my oil would show high level of wear metals but it didn't. It also didn't show signs of coolant or exhaust gases. I was happy to hear that because my 90 is still on it's factory gaskets and seals. It leaks at the valve covers enough to be messy but it's not leaving a mess on the garage floor.


I feel like the biggest key to longevity is drive these things and change the fluids often, not so much what fluid/filter within reason.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Back in Oct/Nov I had my oil tested and it came back with very high marks. I was curious if my oil would show high level of wear metals but it didn't. It also didn't show signs of coolant or exhaust gases. I was happy to hear that because my 90 is still on it's factory gaskets and seals. It leaks at the valve covers enough to be messy but it's not leaving a mess on the garage floor.

Nice. I just ordered a Black Stone kit and will be having mine tested pretty soon.
 

Red90

Well-known member
The point of reference that I go by is my 90 has 170K miles, of which I've put 140K over the past 14 years. I have always used whatever non-syn oil that is on sale with whatever free oil filter that comes with it. I also take it to my local tire shop for their basic $19.99 oil changes w/ free tire rotation.


I change my oil between 3K-5K miles.


Back in Oct/Nov I had my oil tested and it came back with very high marks. I was curious if my oil would show high level of wear metals but it didn't. It also didn't show signs of coolant or exhaust gases. I was happy to hear that because my 90 is still on it's factory gaskets and seals. It leaks at the valve covers enough to be messy but it's not leaving a mess on the garage floor.

I feel like the biggest key to longevity is drive these things and change the fluids often, not so much what fluid/filter within reason.

There is probably nothing to be gained with frequent oil changes. If you do oil analysis, you can set the change interval based on the soot levels, assuming there are no other issues. Wear metals rates on these engine are as good as any other modern engine as long as oil is changed before soot levels become too high or the oil breaks down.

The biggest problem with non synthetics is they do not have a suitable viscosity range for cold starts at arctic temperatures. If you live somewhere warm, then any 15W-40 diesel engine oil will do as well as anything else.
 

1of40

Well-known member
I ordered a kit maybe mid last week and it came already.

That was my experience too. After sending in the first sample they sent me new containers for the next test as well.

I?m pulling an oil sample from our LR4 this weekend. A 2016 SCV6 w/10k miles on Mobil1 and an $8 filter off Amazon to see what?s actually happening in there. I want some data before I allow my oil to go to 15k mi before changing and I want to see if the $8 filter can do the jonlb an OE $40 filter should.
 

Red90

Well-known member
... and I want to see if the $8 filter can do the jonlb an OE $40 filter should.

Oil filters will not affect the oil analysis. They are only there to catch large bits, so that the oil circulation system does not plug. All that matter with a full flow oil filter is that it does not fail in service.

In order to remove contaminants like soot, you need a bypass oil filtration system. With that in place, a good engine and oil, 100000 mile oil change intervals have been safely performed. There is no benefit to a system like this on a small engine, as the oil cost is lower than the required filters and analysis.
 
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