Help! 2.8TGV Delayed Start Hot and Cold

Rivet

Founding Member
I've had this problem for a long time. Granted, my 110 has been in storage or the garage for the past 5 years after installing the TGV. While I've been restoring it, I've tried to get to the bottom of this weird delayed-start issue.

Initially when I had the engine installed, it started in a millisecond. But after about 100 miles, It started a severe delayed starting thing. It actually left me stranded in NOVA and I had to get a tow. The engine has MAYBE 1k miles on it and was a new M&D motor.

Since then, I have replaced the pickup tube and gasket, fuel sender and gasket, changed fuel filter, clear (yellow) Tygon spillover lines since I thought maybe one was cracked.

It does not matter if I'm starting from cold or warm. Sometimes it fires right up when warm, but that is extremely rare. Today I had it running for about 10 minutes and ran it up and down the street to stretch its legs. I then let it idle for another minute, shut if off, and immediately tried to crank it. It didn't start until after another 10-20 seconds of intermittent cranking.

I've cracked the bleed screw on the filter housing and do not see any air bubbles. I've checked for fuel leaks from the tank all the way to the injectors and all looks dry. I've never had a puddle of diesel under the truck. I really do not want to install an in-line electric fuel pump. Are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?

I would like to get this rebuild done and this is the only thing (for now) that is holding up progress.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Take off the fuel cap and see if that fixes your problem. It sounds like you are building up a vacuum in your fuel system.
 

Rivet

Founding Member
Take off the fuel cap and see if that fixes your problem. It sounds like you are building up a vacuum in your fuel system.

Ok, I just started it (again after about 5 cranks) and it started. I removed the cap and let it run for a minute and shut it off. Tried to restart and still have the same problem.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
The only other thing I can think of is an intermittent failing fuel stop solenoid. If not a 12v fuel pump may be your best option.
 

Rivet

Founding Member
The only other thing I can think of is an intermittent failing fuel stop solenoid. If not a 12v fuel pump may be your best option.

Fuel stop solenoid is getting 12v and clicks as it should when I remove and reapply the wire.
 

Rivet

Founding Member
I think I may have found an issue. Apparently whenever the shop installed the banjo fittings to the fuel filter housing, they used teflon tape??? When I took one of the banjos off, I noticed some had disintegrated. How can I tell if this harmed my IP?
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Unless you took apart the IP you wouldn't be able to tell. I'm guessing it dissolved and just passed thru. Hopefully this fixes your starting issue.
 

Rivet

Founding Member
I fitted new copper washers to the filter banjos and got it to start. When it runs, it seems to be running great. But if I shut if off and try to restart it usually takes a few cranks of about 5-10 sec each. I don't want to burn up my starter. So if it's getting fuel and the stop solenoid is working as it should...what could be the issue? I don't think air is in the system because when I shut it off and try to restart it immediately, it won't start. That would have to be a huge air leak since usually they create starting issues when sitting overnight or a few hours.

Half tank of fresh diesel. Battery connections are solid. This is frustrating. I specifically wanted this engine for the "3 wire" simplicity of it.
 

Overlander

Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
one thing not discusses is the lift fuel pump. if the diaphragm is damaged, it will take a few cranks to build up pressure. from back to front

1-fuel cap/breather blockage causing vacuum
2-clog in pickup pipe
3-leak in pickup line
4-air leak in pickup line and sedimentor to primary filter
5-filter blockage
6-fuel pump diaphragm torn
7-IP internal leak
8-fuel stop solenoid
9-injector banjo's loose

the only think left is required compression, but if it drives fine, it's not that. does it feel down on power when it is running?

air leak in a fuel line connection would be my first suspect for your symptoms.
 
Top