WTB 110 Project Truck

I'm actively searching for a project 110 and lurking on the forum trying to soak up as much info as possible. I think my project needs might be a bit different(or maybe not) than some of the other posters so I thought I'd ping the group to get your expertise on how best to proceed with securing a base vehicle for my project. Quick background: I'm planning to build out a 5 door 110 as a daily driver. I live in Colorado and the vehicle will spend most of its life at elevation, in mixed use for light overland trips, 4wd roads, getting to remote trailheads, highway, etc. This will not be a rock crawler. I've got the drivetrain pretty much sorted and hopefully I don't offend any of the purists out there but it will look like Cummins 2.8 swap, R380(slightly reworked), LT230(slightly reworked), existing front/rear differentials(slightly reworked). This will by no means be a heritage rebuild but there will be very few systems left untouched in this project. Likely the frame will get swapped for galvanized. Most all of the work will be done by me. I've got the time and the background.

So.... here is my dilemma. For most of the vehicles I've seen the sellers' have put a premium on the engine running, drivetrain in decent shape, etc. I get this but given the amount of work I'm going to do I care a bit less about that. The last few I've looked at literally were so rotten that all doors, pillars, sills, and bulkhead were beyond repair. All needed full replacement. I'm very familiar with the Rover history for rust and not expecting anywhere near a rust free body but there have to be better solutions out there than what I've been seeing to date. Maybe this is just the way it in in defender-land but hard to swallow paying almost $30K in some cases for what will amount to a VIN, Rear Tub, 2 axles, and a Transfer Case.

If you were starting a project like mine, what kind of vehicle would you be looking for? What are reasonable expectations that I should have? Is there anyone out there that has option(s) that might fit? etc. LHD preferred but RHD OK as well. Also R380 preferred but I can swap out the LT77 if necessary. Looking forward to creating a build post once I get going. Thanks All!
 

evilfij

Well-known member
There are so many other things that corrode or go bad, I would get a nice one or nicest one you can find and do the drivetrain and frame swap you want.
 

Grnrvrs

Well-known member
Welcome. I too am in CO and live at 7400, so I get the elevation thing. If I were in your shoes, I would be looking hard at trucks from Italy, S. France etc. and just import it. I imported mine from the UK and ended up driving it for a year or so and then pulling it off the road for 4 and replaced the frame, bulkhead, redid all of the wiring, hydraulics, rebuilt the transmission and transfer, rebuilt all doors and galvanized just about everything. The engine is the one major component that I've never really touched.
 
How was the titling/Registration process for you in CO? Anything I should be aware of if importing from that perspective?
 

Grnrvrs

Well-known member
I live on the western slope. Titling and registration was easy, but I had it registered in WA for a few years prior to moving back to CO. If I were to import another one, I would probably hire Doug C to manage that side of things, in large part because I no longer live within striking range of a port.
 

blueboy

Well-known member
ACCB8405-D580-448F-A40E-2FE9918F31A7.jpeg
I'm actively searching for a project 110 and lurking on the forum trying to soak up as much info as possible. I think my project needs might be a bit different(or maybe not) than some of the other posters so I thought I'd ping the group to get your expertise on how best to proceed with securing a base vehicle for my project. Quick background: I'm planning to build out a 5 door 110 as a daily driver. I live in Colorado and the vehicle will spend most of its life at elevation, in mixed use for light overland trips, 4wd roads, getting to remote trailheads, highway, etc. This will not be a rock crawler. I've got the drivetrain pretty much sorted and hopefully I don't offend any of the purists out there but it will look like Cummins 2.8 swap, R380(slightly reworked), LT230(slightly reworked), existing front/rear differentials(slightly reworked). This will by no means be a heritage rebuild but there will be very few systems left untouched in this project. Likely the frame will get swapped for galvanized. Most all of the work will be done by me. I've got the time and the background.

So.... here is my dilemma. For most of the vehicles I've seen the sellers' have put a premium on the engine running, drivetrain in decent shape, etc. I get this but given the amount of work I'm going to do I care a bit less about that. The last few I've looked at literally were so rotten that all doors, pillars, sills, and bulkhead were beyond repair. All needed full replacement. I'm very familiar with the Rover history for rust and not expecting anywhere near a rust free body but there have to be better solutions out there than what I've been seeing to date. Maybe this is just the way it in in defender-land but hard to swallow paying almost $30K in some cases for what will amount to a VIN, Rear Tub, 2 axles, and a Transfer Case.

If you were starting a project like mine, what kind of vehicle would you be looking for? What are reasonable expectations that I should have? Is there anyone out there that has option(s) that might fit? etc. LHD preferred but RHD OK as well. Also R380 preferred but I can swap out the LT77 if necessary. Looking forward to creating a build post once I get going. Thanks All!
Also depends if you want a NAS truck with which to start or a ROW one. ROW will be less expensive yet even those are going up in price. There is a NAS truck with relatively high mileage for sale at ECR.
 

blueboy

Well-known member
If haven’t already, you might want to read Member Trucks NAS 110 #66 as well as NAS 110 #145.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
How was the titling/Registration process for you in CO? Anything I should be aware of if importing from that perspective?
Are you in a county that does emissions testing? I think colorado is more strict than California when it comes to diesels.
 

TravelinLight

Well-known member
Are you in a county that does emissions testing? I think colorado is more strict than California when it comes to diesels.
I can tell you it is a nightmare in the Denver area if the rig is not 100% as it left the factory engine wise. If there are any changes to the engine model, the IP is tuned you cannot get the DR2365 form which is required. The DR 2365 form was also being enforced retroactively for rigs that were titled and registered for years and then up for renewals. They asked for the DR2365 which is impossible to get as 2.5 TD were swapped for 200 or 300 TDI. If emissions are required do your homework.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I can tell you it is a nightmare in the Denver area if the rig is not 100% as it left the factory engine wise. If there are any changes to the engine model, the IP is tuned you cannot get the DR2365 form which is required. The DR 2365 form was also being enforced retroactively for rigs that were titled and registered for years and then up for renewals. They asked for the DR2365 which is impossible to get as 2.5 TD were swapped for 200 or 300 TDI. If emissions are required do your homework.
Not quite accurate but close. I’ve done this now before and am about to do it on a R2.8. If you try and register it as stock, in an enhanced emissions zone (few mountain towns are...) the you need the DR2365. If your plan is to do the truck immediately, by whatever with good body panels. F-the frame no matter and get a galv frame (or if good, take it to the galv place out towards airport). Swap engine engine, get it approved and dr form and then regi— way easier. If you want to drive, then all original period. Not dead set but big stuff including IP can’t be tampered with on diesel. I’ll pm you. I’ve been through it. I got mine from Houston, via Spain. Rust free. For now.
 

TravelinLight

Well-known member
@MountainD agreed, if you do not require emissions and can register out of the counties that require them it is no problem. I live in Arapahoe county. There are vehicles that were registered which had to retroactively acquire the DR form. CO Springs, Golden. If you do not have an address in one of those areas, buyer beware is all I am saying.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
2021 was supposed to have achieved a 26% reduction of greenhouse gasses in CO— a target which was missed (look up HB 19-1261 for House bill). They are currently working towards ways to get back on track for next milestone (50% by 2050? Can’t recall...). Many have pushed for a state wide mandate for air control which would put every county into compliance — but they are taking economics into the equation and getting non- conforming vehicles into the plan would be very difficult for some so that is a massive grey area. They do say tampering with emissions equipment of a vehicle is not allowed regardless of emissions test, but who knows? If it were me, however, I’d lean toward compliance before sinking $20k or whatever into a swap. But hey, I am that sort of guy that doesn’t want to get stung + I’m in an enhanced zone and don’t want to skirt the law and certainly wouldn’t want to have to redo anything...— YMMV.
 

TravelinLight

Well-known member
I think we are saying the same thing. I know of people who legally purchased, imported and registered their Defenders. They drove them for years. Now the state is retroactively making these people secure the DR 2365 form. They swapped out the 2.5 for a 200TDI.

They are now faced with registering in a county that does not require emission control or swapping back the 2.5 for the form and then swap the 200 back.

So CO is not so cut and dry when it comes to engine swaps.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Yes, that is correct. My buddy, many of you know, has been driving his 110 for nearly a decade here. It was imported before all the scrutiny. Out of nowhere, 2 years ago, they told him he needed to do the DR2365. He is not driving it at all right now, waiting to do an engine swap so that he can get the DR form as his current engine is non-EPA compliant for the year of his truck. What a mess.
 

meatblanket

Well-known member
Lol, no, he's talking about another dude with a 5 door TD5. Who you may or may not know, I don't think I've seen you guys in the same place at the same time. :)
 
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