Window Felt

[SaintPanzer]

Truck is a '98 ROW D90 Station Wagon.

My rear windows are rattling. It's only a minor annoyance, and I'm sure I can quiet them a bit if needed (while losing the ability to slide them), but it's probably best just to replace the felt. Full disclosure: I've seen some pieces of felt fall out while sliding them, so I know that's needed. Garrison Outfitters advertises a "replacement kit", with all needed improved parts, but they are currently out of stock.

I see the part number is RTC6462.

My questions are:

Must I remove the entire window to do this, or is there a way to install with the window unit in place?

If I have to remove the window, I see that means drilling out the rivets. RN has the correct pop rivets, but at over $2 per. Can anyone tell me the correct size, as I'm sure I have a bunch of aluminum rivets that came with my rivet gun, and I might as well use those first.

Finally, "while I'm in there", any suggestions on what else should be replaced? The previously mentioned GO kit includes the entire rubber, which has the integral felt, but my rubber looks good, it's only the felt that feels the ravages of 22 years.

Thanks!

 

[javelinadave]

Here are the instructions on how to swap it out.
https://garrisonoutfitters.com/product/anti-rattle-kit-rear-sliding-windows-rtc6462/

If your tracks are cracked Zack can help you get those. I thing they are less than $20 each.

The rivets are not normal pop rivets. If you use regular pop rivets water may leak in. I have a bunch of the proper rivets that are sealed at the end. PM me and I can help you out much cheaper than $2 a rivet.

 

[SaintPanzer]

Thank you Dave.

Good to know on the Rivets.

Went through the instructions and video on the GO site. If they weren't out of stock, I would go with the whole kit, instead of just the felt from RN...

 

[BarryO]

There was a recent thread here or on the other forum about someone not using the OEM rivets, with lots of problems.

Yes you need to remove the window to replace the felt. IMO it's worth it to live with the rattle until the Garrison kit is back in stock. The kit comes with the correct rivets.

If the bottom track is cracked or otherwise worn, replace it while you're there. You'll probably want to replace the vertical "squeegee" rubber also. Maybe the seal on the fixed pane if it's cracked.

Make sure to use the supplied PoziDriv bit when removing the screws. You don't want to cause yourself a world of hurt by stripping the heads with a Philips bit. I suggest also ordering a new screw holding the vertical rail to the bottom frame (one per side), as these are often rusty/corroded. Don't use a hardwara store screw as you want the threads to match up with those tapped into the aluminum vertical rail.

 

[WreckITFrank]

Cheap option until full rebuild...a buddy had great luck with this

 

[SaintPanzer]

Make sure to use the supplied PoziDriv bit when removing the screws. You don't want to cause yourself a world of hurt by stripping the heads with a Philips bit. I suggest also ordering a new screw holding the vertical rail to the bottom frame (one per side), as these are often rusty/corroded. Don't use a hardwara store screw as you want the threads to match up with those tapped into the aluminum vertical rail.

Thank you. For the record, Philips Head Screwdrivers have been banished from the shop. I have several nice PoziDrive screwdrivers, I keep one set in the tool box, and another in the tool bag next to the jack, just in case it's needed on the road. Then there's the other set in the Jaguar, but that's a different story entirely. And don't get me started on the Reed and Prince (aka Frearson) needed for the silicon bronze screws on the boat.