Which radiator

bkeef

Active member
Guys that have done this, which radiator did you go with? We have a few inches of depth to play with, but its tight in the engine area. Using stock innercooler.

I added a dual evaporator AC unit and powered fan to my unit and re used my 200TDI radiator.

Did my first 80 mile trip on the highway and had some overheat potentials. Was runninf up around 216-218F. As soon as you pull off the temps would drop down.

Im running around 2150 RPM at 65-70 MPH with 1.2 Tcase NV3550. Turbo is right on edge of spool. Noticed a little oil getting pulled from crank case . Shop is going to reach out to Brittany to discuss breather/ vacuum routing.

Motor runs way stronger than 200 TDI. Good acceleration.

First real time in truck and we are still sorting steering etc. Toe in was off so it drove like a bus. Off to paint once this is sorted
Thanks
Brian
 

1of40

Well-known member
I did a britpart radiator when I did the 2.5NA swap. My operating temps on the IR gun show mid 180’s. I don’t have a tach but run a 1.4 tc and it’ll do 70 in 4th gear, low 80’s in 5th with little to no headwinds. I use a $65 electric fan I found on eBay.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Guys that have done this, which radiator did you go with? We have a few inches of depth to play with, but its tight in the engine area. Using stock innercooler.

I added a dual evaporator AC unit and powered fan to my unit and re used my 200TDI radiator.

Did my first 80 mile trip on the highway and had some overheat potentials. Was runninf up around 216-218F. As soon as you pull off the temps would drop down.

Im running around 2150 RPM at 65-70 MPH with 1.2 Tcase NV3550. Turbo is right on edge of spool. Noticed a little oil getting pulled from crank case . Shop is going to reach out to Brittany to discuss breather/ vacuum routing.

Motor runs way stronger than 200 TDI. Good acceleration.

First real time in truck and we are still sorting steering etc. Toe in was off so it drove like a bus. Off to paint once this is sorted
Thanks
Brian
Nice! Cruises easy at 70+mph? Sorry don't have radiator advice for you
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I have a refurbished stock Disco 300Tdi radiator in my truck, and even on 90 degree days I have a hard time getting above 180 on normal drives. If I go long, or do the hills once warm, it will run normal temps.

In other words, a clean stock radiator does well.

But I can also barely get to 75 if I try hard. Not sure if that has anything to do with the radiator though......
 

bkeef

Active member
I have a refurbished stock Disco 300Tdi radiator in my truck, and even on 90 degree days I have a hard time getting above 180 on normal drives. If I go long, or do the hills once warm, it will run normal temps.

In other words, a clean stock radiator does well.

But I can also barely get to 75 if I try hard. Not sure if that has anything to do with the radiator though......
Thanks
I have a feeling the old radiator was the culprit. Once we stacked a big condenser coil for the air conditioning and some lovely SC heat, we were bound to warm up a bit. Gonna see if we can get a Griffin to fit when the shop gets back on it.
 

WaywardLR

Member
I have a refurbished stock Disco 300Tdi radiator in my truck, and even on 90 degree days I have a hard time getting above 180 on normal drives. If I go long, or do the hills once warm, it will run normal temps.

In other words, a clean stock radiator does well.

But I can also barely get to 75 if I try hard. Not sure if that has anything to do with the radiator though......
Sounds like you need to replace your thermostat. I had put new one in my 200TDi along with a new mechanical temp gauge. Same issue you were having. Replaced it with another new one and temps go up to where they should, 185/190.
 

13diamonds

Member
Guys that have done this, which radiator did you go with? We have a few inches of depth to play with, but its tight in the engine area. Using stock innercooler.

I added a dual evaporator AC unit and powered fan to my unit and re used my 200TDI radiator.

Did my first 80 mile trip on the highway and had some overheat potentials. Was runninf up around 216-218F. As soon as you pull off the temps would drop down.

Im running around 2150 RPM at 65-70 MPH with 1.2 Tcase NV3550. Turbo is right on edge of spool. Noticed a little oil getting pulled from crank case . Shop is going to reach out to Brittany to discuss breather/ vacuum routing.

Motor runs way stronger than 200 TDI. Good acceleration.

First real time in truck and we are still sorting steering etc. Toe in was off so it drove like a bus. Off to paint once this is sorted
Thanks
Brian

Going to use a Puma radiator/intercooler setup for now with electric fan. Will upgrade as necessary eventually.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Sounds like you need to replace your thermostat. I had put new one in my 200TDi along with a new mechanical temp gauge. Same issue you were having. Replaced it with another new one and temps go up to where they should, 185/190.

I have been thinking the same, but it opens at 180. At least, all hoses are getting equally warm, so I'm assuming I'm getting full flow.
 

rocky

Well-known member
I changed the thermostat on mine in an effort to help out with temperature fluctuations.

It made no discernible difference at all.
 

rocky

Well-known member
Thanks

I have a feeling the old radiator was the culprit. Once we stacked a big condenser coil for the air conditioning and some lovely SC heat, we were bound to warm up a bit. Gonna see if we can get a Griffin to fit when the shop gets back on it.


Would sure be good to get a US based aluminum radiator company like Griffin. I've talked to them and sense the surest way forward is to send them a radiator so they can duplicate dimensions, mounting points etc. Anyone got a failed Radiator?
They're only ten miles from my Mother in Law's place....
 

bkeef

Active member
Would sure be good to get a US based aluminum radiator company like Griffin. I've talked to them and sense the surest way forward is to send them a radiator so they can duplicate dimensions, mounting points etc. Anyone got a failed Radiator?
They're only ten miles from my Mother in Law's place....
Can check and see if shop still has mine
 

bkeef

Active member
Interesting enough, new 3 row aluminum radiator arrived from China. For $199 this is one seriously nice radiator.

All back and rolling. Now the shop drove it hard today and did some up and down hill highway rolls with both ac units running. Ran warm still , close to 218F in the murphy. Pull off the highway for 30 aeconds and it dropped down ri 175f.

This motor boosts between 25-30 Pounds. Didnt know that before today.

Shop gonna call Brittany tomorrow and talk about temps.

Using a KBX grill but that shouldnt matter,

Setup is large vintage air AC cond unit, 3 coil race radiator/innercooler stock ans powered fan (controlled off CPU)

B
 

1of40

Well-known member
Double check the right amount of oil is in the engine. Low oil levels will not allow the engine to cool properly. Double check the fan direction. You definitely want it pulling.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Is your fan in the front or on the rear?
with dual a/c he should have condensor fans in front and an engine cooling fan behind the radiator pulling.
A single fan will never handle all of that need.
Engine fan controlled by ECU, condensor fans on when compressor is running.
With Dual a/c are there two condensors ? Sounds like air flow to radiator is blocked @ hwy speed.
The radiator sounds like it is dropping coolant temp quickly. Problem is airflow-more cfm captain
 

Napalm00

Well-known member
with dual a/c he should have condensor fans in front and an engine cooling fan behind the radiator pulling.
A single fan will never handle all of that need.
Engine fan controlled by ECU, condensor fans on when compressor is running.
With Dual a/c are there two condensors ? Sounds like air flow to radiator is blocked @ hwy speed.
The radiator sounds like it is dropping coolant temp quickly. Problem is airflow-more cfm captain
I think he means he is running a dual pass single condenser? I also think the fan is suspect but, personally wouldn't.put one-up front . I'd run a dual rear or a serious single fan with a trinary switch to force it on when ac is on.

I am a proponent that a properly set up puller outperforms any front pusher.


So four q for op:

Multi pass condenser?
Are you forcing fan on somehow when ac is on ?
What fan on rear ?
Is there ANY gap between the rad and the condenser?
 

rocky

Well-known member
On the D1 and D2 LR installed pusher electric fans to run when demand called for it. Usually when the AC was on. The puller engine fan presumably wasn't enough to keep things cool.
Presumebaly the RRC was the same way. Not sure what they did with more new fangled LR3/4
 
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