It’s embarrassing how crap my engine bay looks, but here you go. The circle is over that little recessed area between the block and bell housing right at the bottom rear corner of the engine. The other pic shows where it actually drips.
Where Is This Leak?
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
That’s after I cleaned it 75 miles ago.
I put two bottles of dye in a while back when I was trying to make sure it was the vacuum pump vs. something else — but if all three or four leaks are coming from the same engine oil, what does the dye do for you? I was hoping it might show that the oil is coming from above and running down, but it is dry between top and bottom of the block. And in any case, I never detected any dye, even in the oil change I did after.
EDIT: I should say I wiped it down with a rag 75 miles ago, not with pressure wash.
I put two bottles of dye in a while back when I was trying to make sure it was the vacuum pump vs. something else — but if all three or four leaks are coming from the same engine oil, what does the dye do for you? I was hoping it might show that the oil is coming from above and running down, but it is dry between top and bottom of the block. And in any case, I never detected any dye, even in the oil change I did after.
EDIT: I should say I wiped it down with a rag 75 miles ago, not with pressure wash.
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Tbaumer
Technical Excellence Contributor
It’s embarrassing how crap my engine bay looks...
/QUOTE]
You're going to make me stop posting pics of mine with comments like that! Looks like an engine that leaves the pavement once in a while...
and has a leak so the dirt has something to stick to!
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
Like I said previously you add the dye, pressure wash the truck, take it for a drive. Don't let it sit Don't let it wait for a week Don't drive it a hundred miles.
Get underneath the truck and check for UV then you know exactly where the oil is coming from.
Or just pull it because it's obviously leaking. It's a shitty job either way
Get underneath the truck and check for UV then you know exactly where the oil is coming from.
Or just pull it because it's obviously leaking. It's a shitty job either way
I'm just disappointed I didn't see any alien blood on the garage floor when I turned on the neat purple light.
But really, it is disappointing to think that I'll be doing this every 10-15k.... It will probably have to go to the shop, or I'll have to wait till July when I can drive the Series, and don't have to go to work.
But really, it is disappointing to think that I'll be doing this every 10-15k.... It will probably have to go to the shop, or I'll have to wait till July when I can drive the Series, and don't have to go to work.
Napalm00
Technical Excellence Contributor
The real issue is with the quality of the seals.
There are three main seals available two are the dowty type And one is a modern rubber style.
The modern rubber are garbage
The only good one are the nos nla original dowty rear main seals. The only people I know that have them is Turner's in the UK. They sell them only in a bottom end gasket set that's for the 2.5na. it's uses the same real main seal.
The replacement dowty seals are now made in India or China and are garbage.
The are two choices of t seals. Rubber and cork impregnated. Use the rubber ones. You have to put a coating of right stuff on them. And install them with the proper shimming tools. And cut them 1mm proud of the bearing/block surface
There are two choices of block to clutch housing gasket. A gray one that is a cheap replacement and a red brick / black one that has silicone seams drawn on it.
You need the red brick / black one and every area that has the silicone seams needs a smear of right stuff.
You then need to use the proper plastic guide tool that's comes with the seal and homemade alignment pins to correctly align and install the clutch housing onto the back of the engine.
If you have a 200 TDI and don't do it like above it's going to leak.
if you have a 300 TDI and don't follow the instructions for the t seal it's going to leak.
There are three main seals available two are the dowty type And one is a modern rubber style.
The modern rubber are garbage
The only good one are the nos nla original dowty rear main seals. The only people I know that have them is Turner's in the UK. They sell them only in a bottom end gasket set that's for the 2.5na. it's uses the same real main seal.
The replacement dowty seals are now made in India or China and are garbage.
The are two choices of t seals. Rubber and cork impregnated. Use the rubber ones. You have to put a coating of right stuff on them. And install them with the proper shimming tools. And cut them 1mm proud of the bearing/block surface
There are two choices of block to clutch housing gasket. A gray one that is a cheap replacement and a red brick / black one that has silicone seams drawn on it.
You need the red brick / black one and every area that has the silicone seams needs a smear of right stuff.
You then need to use the proper plastic guide tool that's comes with the seal and homemade alignment pins to correctly align and install the clutch housing onto the back of the engine.
If you have a 200 TDI and don't do it like above it's going to leak.
if you have a 300 TDI and don't follow the instructions for the t seal it's going to leak.
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