What have you done today to your LAND ROVER (Non Defender)

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Order of the day. Sill repairs, bulkhead footwell prep and repair of surface corrosion internal b hoop feet. The lip on the sills has got to be one of the worst designs. Spot well to sill structure and no paint between panels! Even the rear sills which looked good were hiding tons of surface rust. Spot weld drills are money for this type of work. Finished removing all the stock sill covers, fixed the surface corrosion and etched and put on por15 all parts in need. Tomorrow final sand, etch primer on bare metal and then prime/paint.
 

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Giftshopduane

Well-known member
Knocked out (literally) new side pieces for the 110. Quite impressed with myself today .
 

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I started just wanting to replace the turbo...but there are so many other things needing/wanting repair while I’m in there. Like the wiring. Horrid. So I guess I disassembled things... took out all the extra and shoddy wires so I can see where I’m at and where I need to be. Getting stuff prepped in other words... even got my manifold flattened. Yes, that is just tape on end of unfused wiring off the starter post.
 

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Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Back at it today. Picked up the headliners from getting recovered. Epoxy primed the sill supports on all 4 doors and both footwells after I performed a small weld repair and elimination of surface corrosion, made patches for a couple areas on seat box that prior owner had strange holes. After matching paint, seam sealer and rivets..should not be able to notice. New cover going over box anyways. Prepped the middle area for floor to go back in, wet sanded the middle floor...just need to polish. Removed all the prior carpet adhesive and rubber stip in preparation for floor going back down and new carpet, refinished the bottoms of the interior cage, resealed the bottom of the lt230 and put a new sump on. Mopped up the garage. Done for the day. Getting closer.
 

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LostChord

Well-known member
Back at it today. Picked up the headliners from getting recovered. Epoxy primed the sill supports on all 4 doors and both footwells after I performed a small weld repair and elimination of surface corrosion, made patches for a couple areas on seat box that prior owner had strange holes. After matching paint, seam sealer and rivets..should not be able to notice. New cover going over box anyways. Prepped the middle area for floor to go back in, wet sanded the middle floor...just need to polish. Removed all the prior carpet adhesive and rubber stip in preparation for floor going back down and new carpet, refinished the bottoms of the interior cage, resealed the bottom of the lt230 and put a new sump on. Mopped up the garage. Done for the day. Getting closer.

You are flying through it...nice work!
 

Giftshopduane

Well-known member
How? Howd you do the curved sides? I’d love to try.
quite easily, honestly. I patterned a piece on manila paper, added the extra for the flanges. Then plywood “bucks“ sandwich the aluminum between the two, I used the rivet holes to screw through. Then just a body hammer and work each flange down. The plywood sandwich keeps the body surface from deforming. then take the form out and use a body anvil or bar (bucking bar) to square up the corners of the fold. I had to get creative with one edge where it tucks under the tub side panel.

my buddy owns a steel fab co. I pick through his cutoffs for material. Next up 2nd row seat riser panel and inner tub panel patches under inward facing seats, bulkhead outriggers for donor frame. once the bulkhead is done I’ll make new footwell for my series 2a.

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Installed an updated intercooler, silicone hoses, Turbo Technics VGT turbo and Grim Speed boost controller. Started it up, but haven’t driven it— got too late. More later :)
 

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Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Over the last two days finished installing newly done headliner and finished painting all 4 sill supports after lip/seal delete, bulkhead footwells etc. Setting up a spray booth to re-spray seatbox, media blasted floor pans, stainless sill covers, new passenger side sills, Using ppg single stage enamel. This 110 has very little corrosion however beware of the raised lips on the sills. There is no paint between the two panels and there is guaranteed to be some rust. All 4 of my sills looked like this and only minor corrosion on the exterior on 2/4. The solution is delete, painted stainless sill covers from sp rovers and seals to the lower doors.
 
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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
So what does a boost controller do for a VGT turbo? thanks
That is a great question. I didn't know the need difference between a VGT and a regular turbo--I thought it was basically providing the same benefit. What do you know that I don't? I am still learning so much from the 200TDI as all my others were just petrol...
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I had this written out so ill post it here:

so the way that the turbo technics VNT is setup is like no other VNT on the market, they use a boost reference to control it. All other VNT use a vacuum controller along with a computer or a dual stage controller. On my new custom turbo ill be using this style as its much much safer and more precise, because it controls the max flow and measures the rise rate and the max boost at the same time. TLDR it uses a constant vac source to control the vanes and the boost reference is used to just align the MAX boost and the rise rate.

that being said, the TT turbo setup is fine for what it is. you can use a boost controller on it the same way you do for the stock wastegate turbo. if you have a composite head gasket (old type) max boost should be about 15-17ish PSI . if you have the MLS later gasket you can do 20 no prob and higher if you are brave.

more boost = more air and lower EGTS for the same fueling settings

You cant convert a TT to the dual stage (safer less spiking) controller without removing the boost actuator and replacing it with a Vac actuator. Frankly its wasted money as for the LR tdi setups it works fine.


here is the controller for VAC actuated VNT (like 99.9% of the market)

https://gfb.com.au/products/boost-c...d-effective-boost-control-for-vnt-vgt-turbos/


here is the controller for the stock wastegate turbo or a Boost actuated TT VNT

https://www.grimmspeed.com/manual-boost-controller/




Both are used to set the MAX boost of either system. you can use the grimspeed or similar to run the TT VNT higher or lower than the factory setting of 17-20PSI depending.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
The latter Grim Speed is what I’m using. Simple matter of turning the dial to adjust the max. glad the VGT operates similarly and I didn’t spew anything up!
 
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