What have you done today to your LAND ROVER (Non Defender)
- Thread starter Roverman2010
- Start date
a frame ball joint looks to need love
Terrapintige
Well-known member
Thankfully it is all just surface rust. I put a wire wheel and brush on everything I could reach and applied POR 15. I hope not to be back up in there anytime soon. It's amazing the amount of areas and ledges that dust/dirt can get trapped. It's no wonder why rear cross members rot from the inside out.
Terrapintige
Well-known member
Yeah, I didn't notice that until I dropped the tank. What is the best treatment? Can it be rebuilt or in the SDO replacement the way to go?
TIA
Jeff B
Well-known member
Details!
And type slow, because I haven't done any audio work since a head unit in my Hunter circa 2006ish??
.
Its super simple, you just connect ignition power, ground, and however many speakers you want. It doesn't require there to be a head unit at all and you control everything via Bluetooth from your phone. There is no app, just play what you want to listen to and adjust the volume on your phone. It can be used with a head unit and external amplifier, but it isn't required.
I got the Mark 1 for the 110 because it only has two speakers. I might put the Mark 4 in my wife's D1 so she can do bluetooth calls and such.
yes and yes
Remove the two bolts through the arms and the large nut and pop the ball joint out with the casting its pressed into. You can press in a new one or buy the casting with a new one already pressed in. The wide articulation one is the best option but not the cheapest.
Frobisher
Well-known member
I spent all day replacing the gaskets on the passenger side exhaust manifold due to it seriously leaking. Buttoned it all back up only to find the flange on the Y pipe was cracked as well. Back at it next week...
Here’s hopeful news for all doing this down the road: all the bolts came out with no problem (maybe that was the problem!). Only one stud on the flange was correct, another was backwards, and the third was actually a PO’s desperate move to get it back together with a M6 bolt/nut flat and lock washer combo. It turns out the manifold threads were still good, so all is right now and easy to remove again next week.
Here’s hopeful news for all doing this down the road: all the bolts came out with no problem (maybe that was the problem!). Only one stud on the flange was correct, another was backwards, and the third was actually a PO’s desperate move to get it back together with a M6 bolt/nut flat and lock washer combo. It turns out the manifold threads were still good, so all is right now and easy to remove again next week.
I rewired all the fuses under the dash with new blade fuse type boxes. I only had to shave about 1/16th of an inch off the bottom of the frame for these to fit into the original hole in the frame. I took the time to detangle the wires a but, and to bundle them with their respective sets of fuses and relays. This left me with more than enough room behind the new fuse boxes, and the whole thing went back together very easily.
I used the world's best wire stripper that I've had for like 20 years, and this new crimper that I got off Amazon, that works surprisingly well. I can't seem to find the fuse box I used from Amazon.... sorry, it's a fair quality, and fits well. If anyone needs me to, I could open up the panel again and see if I can get a brand off the back of it.
I used the world's best wire stripper that I've had for like 20 years, and this new crimper that I got off Amazon, that works surprisingly well. I can't seem to find the fuse box I used from Amazon.... sorry, it's a fair quality, and fits well. If anyone needs me to, I could open up the panel again and see if I can get a brand off the back of it.
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Terrapintige
Well-known member
I appreciate the advice. I have ordered the SDO unit. Looks like another project for next weekend. Thanks!
who makes that stripper Ben ? I want one.
Terrapintige
Well-known member
It appears to be an older version of this Gardner-Bender stripper:
Roverman2010
Well-known member
Elliott Lucas PA1851/8
Here are the different versions I see on Amazon. That EL one above looks like almost exact same thing.
This and others are basically the same, but I don't like the look of the plastic bit used in the mechanism:
I worked for an electrical company in the mid-90s and that GB tool was one of several things I was supposed to have in my tool belt. I've had it ever since, just keeps working. I hope the newer ones are the same quality.
I have the Irwin strippers. 80% of the time it works good. 20% of the time it doesn’t work. I wouldn’t buy it again.
erover82
Well-known member
The self-adjusting kind still have an adjustment knob, which if not adjusted correctly cause them to work poorly.
Roverman2010
Well-known member
I have this one about twenty five years, works the same as new and has seen a lot of stripping. Kind of surprised as this has seen at
Alot of salt water.
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Get the Klein Katapult or Knipex auto strippers. I like Irwin tools but these strippers were a waste of time.