What have you done today to your LAND ROVER (Non Defender)

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
The aperture is the same the gullwings slip right in however the gullwing mounting flange is larger than the stock window flange and it is bolted on not using the rivet holes of the stock window. The bolt holes are outboard of the rivet holes. When going back to stock the bolt holes would be showing through the side panel.

The CSW Gull Wing windows do not require new holes, FYI. It is different, but I suppose it depends on if you care if you drill new holes. Front Runners are always a dear penny, but they are very well made. I have not seen the CSW's in person, but I bet they are nice as well. https://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/gullwing-door-for-land-rover-defender
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I've been running around with my front floor panels & tunnel cover just sitting in place since changing my seat box. A bit noisy to say the least. Finally got around to adding foam seals, securing the parts & adding the gear box foam. Threw on the old tunnel pad & carpet (for now) & actually had a conversation with my wife on the way to dinner - In relationships, it's the little things that count :)(y)!

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Roverman2010

Well-known member
Let me know how it goes, Im thinking of doing the same on my LR3. Especially since the system has developed a leak and now is flat every morning.
Took five hours to do, on the front I dropped the top anti-sway mounts. You WILL need a crow bar and a floor jack.to push the bottom of the unit over to fit the bottom bolt. No need to remove the front calipers as their instructions say. The rears are easy. I removed the hight sensors and tape up the loose wire connection.

I have only done the re-flash, took first time. I did phone AB to ask a couple of Q's but not heard back from them yet.

Will say since we have put a couple of hundred miles on so far, not much differance in ride yet. The nose will drop more if you slam the anchors on. We will test it good in a couple of weeks when we head up the moutains and the logging roads.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
As it was a rainy cool day here in Galveston I decided to fix the seal on the D1's steering box. It had been dripping for about a year and put some of that blue devil stuff in. Sort of stopped but two days ago as I was pulling into my garage it decided to dump all the fuild out.

If it wasn't raining I could have taken a picture of about 2lts of dexron on the road.

I guess the blue devil has its limits as the seal came out in two pieces and split.
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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I've been running around with my front floor panels & tunnel cover just sitting in place since changing my seat box. A bit noisy to say the least. Finally got around to adding foam seals, securing the parts & adding the gear box foam. Threw on the old tunnel pad & carpet (for now) & actually had a conversation with my wife on the way to dinner - In relationships, it's the little things that count :)(y)!

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A little Dynamat or equivalent makes a difference as well on these panels
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
^^ Yes it did. ^^ I have it on the bottom side. I don't think it's durable enough to put down on the top side, since I'm not putting any non-removable covering down.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
After a busy weekend using my truck and m416 to clean out a barn, reckon he deserved a green oval treat that's been waiting to go on for a few days.
 

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FlyersFan76

Well-known member
I recently took my Nakatanenga seat rail extensions off on the drivers side. I am liking the original seat position again.

I might be selling those extensions in the future I just didn't take the passenger ones off yet.
 

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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Made a mount for an external GMRS antenna, bolted it up and ran the wire to my radio. Plus replaced the rear door lock that had gone bad. Alignment took a couple of er shims/washers but its perfect. Makes me want to redo my doors,
Added a high mounted stop light to the rear door. Powered by the trailer connector. This trucks never had anything like that.
 

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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Two things. One investigated why Cylinder #1 wasn't firing. Symptom, while the exhaust manifold for all the other cylinders was around 600 deg F, #1 was barely 200 deg F. Cause was quickly found after removing the spark plug. The screw on electrode at the top of the plug was mostly unscrewed. In fact the little b*gger fell off into that mystery place where things never get found. Replaced spark plug and all seems good.
Also, investigating the reason why using the winch causes the truck to stall. Appears to be some kind of back feed going on. At this point, I took it down to its favorite Land Rover Doctor and left it there.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Two things. One investigated why Cylinder #1 wasn't firing. Symptom, while the exhaust manifold for all the other cylinders was around 600 deg F, #1 was barely 200 deg F.

What made you decide to go on a diagnostic path where you were checking for misfires based on temp? Good find.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
What made you decide to go on a diagnostic path where you were checking for misfires based on temp? Good find.

I had the temperature gun out to look at the coolant temps because of the erratic readings.

It has had an annoying misfire like feeling for a while. Being OBD1 there aren't any cylinder specific codes to work from. It was one of those rare moments of unplanned genius that made me shoot the exhaust manifold to "look see". My first thought seeing the reading of 200 on #1 and 600 elsewhere made me suspect that the gun might be faulty. It tested fine with boiling water so redid the exhaust manifold test and yup #1 was at 200 degrees, every other cylinder around 600 (V8).

Of course the immediate thought was oh shit something is seriously wrong with the engine, but pulling the spark plug boot and seeing the little screw on connector fall off was a pretty big hint that I'd found the problem,
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Been investigating a slight clinck sound on braking and now accelerating coming from the front left. Axle itself is solid but the bushings are showing signs of lots movement went pried... Sticker is due this month as well..
 
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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Got truck back from annual sticker inspection. Had to replace front end bushings. He'd had a bad set of bushings that were failing prematurely a few years ago....and I got one of them. Feels typically much tighter now with non of the shunting that it had pre sticker.
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Installed Bully side steps on my 110 CSW. Drilled and tapped the slider and bolted these directly to the back side of the slider. Works great. 👍🏻
 

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