The aperture is the same the gullwings slip right in however the gullwing mounting flange is larger than the stock window flange and it is bolted on not using the rivet holes of the stock window. The bolt holes are outboard of the rivet holes. When going back to stock the bolt holes would be showing through the side panel.
Let me know how it goes, Im thinking of doing the same on my LR3. Especially since the system has developed a leak and now is flat every morning.Out with the oldView attachment 8426View attachment 8427
Took five hours to do, on the front I dropped the top anti-sway mounts. You WILL need a crow bar and a floor jack.to push the bottom of the unit over to fit the bottom bolt. No need to remove the front calipers as their instructions say. The rears are easy. I removed the hight sensors and tape up the loose wire connection.Let me know how it goes, Im thinking of doing the same on my LR3. Especially since the system has developed a leak and now is flat every morning.
A little Dynamat or equivalent makes a difference as well on these panelsI've been running around with my front floor panels & tunnel cover just sitting in place since changing my seat box. A bit noisy to say the least. Finally got around to adding foam seals, securing the parts & adding the gear box foam. Threw on the old tunnel pad & carpet (for now) & actually had a conversation with my wife on the way to dinner - In relationships, it's the little things that count !
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Two things. One investigated why Cylinder #1 wasn't firing. Symptom, while the exhaust manifold for all the other cylinders was around 600 deg F, #1 was barely 200 deg F.
What made you decide to go on a diagnostic path where you were checking for misfires based on temp? Good find.