What have you done to your Land Rover

sherpamike

Active member
Really slick Carling switches installed with the awesome switch plate from Jason at Series-Defender. Super happy with the result!
 

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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Come to realization that my kid is going to have to drive mine to school for a week or two. He rear ended a Subaru in my old DD a honda. Thats off the road until fixed.
 

FlyersFan76

Well-known member
Finally pulled the seat box. Thank goodness it is aluminum.

As I was nearing the end of getting all the nuts and bolts out I thought for sure that there would have been a couple hidden ones.

Should probably get in there with some greaser and a vacuum.

And have to build the new box. :( Does anyone sell the gearbox adapter plate for an LT77? I know I can reuse it like YRM states but thought it might be easier to go new.


In a related task I have a battery disconnect that I do not want to reused but wouldn't mind getting a new one. Are they a good idea? Any recommendations? I like the Blue Sea systems ones but not sure exactly which one to get. I have a 200Tdi.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/Manual%20Battery%20Switches

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/37/Manual_Battery_Switches/m-Series

And of course are there any vendors that sell these?
Thanks
 

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DefendersNW

Well-known member
Finally pulled the seat box. Thank goodness it is aluminum.

As I was nearing the end of getting all the nuts and bolts out I thought for sure that there would have been a couple hidden ones.

Should probably get in there with some greaser and a vacuum.

And have to build the new box. :( Does anyone sell the gearbox adapter plate for an LT77? I know I can reuse it like YRM states but thought it might be easier to go new.


In a related task I have a battery disconnect that I do not want to reused but wouldn't mind getting a new one. Are they a good idea? Any recommendations? I like the Blue Sea systems ones but not sure exactly which one to get. I have a 200Tdi.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/Manual%20Battery%20Switches

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/37/Manual_Battery_Switches/m-Series

And of course are there any vendors that sell these?
Thanks

Yes
 

KGH

Well-known member
Finally pulled the seat box. Thank goodness it is aluminum.

As I was nearing the end of getting all the nuts and bolts out I thought for sure that there would have been a couple hidden ones.

Should probably get in there with some greaser and a vacuum.

And have to build the new box. :( Does anyone sell the gearbox adapter plate for an LT77? I know I can reuse it like YRM states but thought it might be easier to go new.


In a related task I have a battery disconnect that I do not want to reused but wouldn't mind getting a new one. Are they a good idea? Any recommendations? I like the Blue Sea systems ones but not sure exactly which one to get. I have a 200Tdi.

And of course are there any vendors that sell these?
Thanks

Ahh... battery box rebuild. Fun. What I learned:
-The YRM pieces will need a little tweaking on the corners to create correct offsets.

- Sand where rivets are going before riveting, alu etch primer on those areas that are aluminum.

- Scuff and alu etch prime new pieces before assembly.

- SikaFlex or similar to seal joints once assembled.

- Used all new foam seals and SS hardware for reassembly. After 2-3 days, retighten, as foam compresses.

- I bought Blue Sea components off of Amazon at 1/2 the cost. And learned that there are hundreds of trucks in Europe with basic dual battery systems that cost under 100 bucks, using basic relays.

http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174
 

Rivet

Founding Member
Finally got the bodywork done and spent the day yesterday taping it off. I've painted it the same color before in pieces, but it was a rushed job since there was a PCS thrown in the mix. Next is sealer on the bare metal spots and then some high-build on the wings and rear quarters.
 

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Wilboro

Well-known member
Got my re-trimmed headliner installed last night after applying a layer of b-quiet and a layer of 5mm uxcell foam.
 

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CDN38

Well-known member
- Used all new foam seals and SS hardware for reassembly. After 2-3 days, retighten, as foam compresses.

If you are using any stainless or steel fasteners through aluminum, don't forget anti-corrosion paste.
 

Wilboro

Well-known member
Curious what you noticed in regards to cabin noise with the lining?

I didn't get a chance to fire it up last night, but banging on the roof with just the b-quiet made it less tinny sounding. Once the excell went on it was significantly quieter when doing the same. The same again once the liner went in. It's actually shocking how solid it sounds now compared to before.

I won't get to road test it for another month or so which will determine how effective it really is, but I'll try it out in the laneway in he next day or so.
 

Dan kemper

Founding Member
Callsign: KK6ECF
Finally finished up the battery box cleanup and cleaned up prior work. Trimmed all cables and crimped new fittings, installed new cutoff switch, new odyssey, installed rivnuts for fuse box etc
 

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rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Got my re-trimmed headliner installed last night after applying a layer of b-quiet and a layer of 5mm uxcell foam.

That stuff looks interesting. Hope its working well. Better priced than the much of the stuff you see out there.
 

FlyersFan76

Well-known member
Thanks.

Did you do a complete seatbox?

Any suggestions from anyone on how to reuse this piece as YRM suggests. Anyone have one fabricated. I have an LT77.

The one side would continue the length of the seat box thus the reason I bolted the pieces back together.

The factory box is riveted and welded so that is why my holes are really big. Anyone have the correct measurements side to side. The fact that the angle piece at the top is still attached makes the top to bottom measurement will still be correct.

I am planning on Line-Xing the interior at some point so that will at least hide my somewhat "hack" job a little.

Thanks

Ahh... battery box rebuild. Fun. What I learned:
-The YRM pieces will need a little tweaking on the corners to create correct offsets.

- Sand where rivets are going before riveting, alu etch primer on those areas that are aluminum.

- Scuff and alu etch prime new pieces before assembly.

- SikaFlex or similar to seal joints once assembled.

- Used all new foam seals and SS hardware for reassembly. After 2-3 days, retighten, as foam compresses.

- I bought Blue Sea components off of Amazon at 1/2 the cost. And learned that there are hundreds of trucks in Europe with basic dual battery systems that cost under 100 bucks, using basic relays.

http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174
 

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rovercolorado

Well-known member
Pulled out the REALLY bad wiring going to my rear spot light. The guys in Spain used whatever they had laying around and a whole roll of electrical tape to make it "work". No fuse and wired straight to the battery. I wondered what that extra wire in the battery box was for when I got the truck and now I know.
Weekend project to install new switch and properly install the wire and ground connections. If I have time also rewire the interior lights in the back of the truck.
 
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