What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

Ephry73

Well-known member
I have been driving it daily. Changed thetop front shock bushings this past weekend as the ones installed last summer were missing. What a difference! Oh it is so funny how gradual changes can creep up. Side note, close to hitting 300,000 km ;)
 
Fixing some oil leaks and cleaning up the winter beach driving leftovers.
image.jpg
 
Have driven it with the standard garret and now installed the VNT turbo.
It is an upgrade you can feel on inclines and normal daily driving. No flat spots and it’s eager to move in any gear. Some tweaking on fueling- idle screw and star wheel adjusted. I have not changed the main fuel screw. MD suggest 1/4 turn. The radiator and viscous are new, and the intercooler is the thicker/deeper version. 18 psi on incline and egt”s at 1100 full throttle. There is room to tune to 1300 EGT with the fuel, but would be more smoke.
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Today, I installed the rear mud flaps. Somehow, one was torn off (weird, the bracket was still there, but the flap itself was MIA, and I don't remember ripping anything) somewhere between Shetland and Southampton. Finally "got around to it".

Wanted to install the fronts as well, but wouldn't you know it, there were fronts at one time, but they are gone. The bolts and the rivet nuts are still there, and rusted in fairly well. If fact, the outriggers are rusted more than I'd like, but that's a different issue. Heat with penetrating oil did not seem to work, so I gave up for the evening. I think maybe I might try chiseling off the bolt head, and trying to punch the rivet nut. I'm open to suggestions on this; that is to say suggestions that don't involve a new galvanized frame, which would be nice, but is probably a few years away.
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
OK, so front mud flaps were a complete failure. On the left side, my plan worked perfectly. I got the previous screws/rivnuts out, and was ready to go. The problem was the right side. The outrigger simply had too much rust. As I started trying to break the screw, the rust hole got larger, and one of the screws "folded in" I stopped before I really broke something.

Other than the outriggers, the frame looks fairly good. The rear crossmember was replaced before I bought it, and while there is some surface rust, I think I can clean that up and repaint. The front scares me a little, as there is some rust where the bumper meets, but it's not an emergency. I see outriggers are available, but would have to hire that out, and I think I'd be overwhelmed by labor costs, as it looks like the wings would have to come off, and something done with the bulkhead mounts as well. I'm at a loss with that, and if anyone has info on the process, it would be very much appreciated!
 
Took my truck out for its first drive since putting it away post Winter Romp. Discovered the third flasher unit I’ve had since 2018 has failed.
It was acting pretty weird in Feb, but I forgot about that.
Any better units than Grote 44110 out there?
 

jymmiejamz

0
Callsign: KN4JHI
I installed some Trekworks LED headlamp bulbs. I haven't driven at night, but they look factory installed and much cheaper than the Holley Retrobright headlamp assemblies. I'm excited to have these to offer to customers assuming they perform well, which I'm sure they will.
tempImageauKPqi.jpg
 
Hella DOT housings are the best option for any bulb in Defenders IMO. The Koito are great quality but only available in ECE beam and have a difficult bulb fixing ring.
 
That's too bad, I was going to grab them for my Koitos

Koito have slightly better build quality so you can’t go wrong either way. It comes down to preference between ECE or DOT beam and flat or domed glass. The bulb fixing ring, while difficult to secure, is admittedly more robust and can be made easier to assemble with a bit of antiseize. Again, both are far superior options to everything else out there (except NLA Cibie).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Z.G
Top