What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

I cannot find an example of this anywhere. Can you point me to where I might buy one? Thanks!
Sorry I don’t have a link but as I recall its a sealed unit where the boot is closed on the wire end. Perhaps you can salvage that rubber boot and put a bullet connector on the end.

Or… Perhaps you could source a single snap connector and put that on the sensor and then solder a bullet connector on the wire and you’re done.

This is what I am referring to.
good luck
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Priapus

Well-known member
I managed to find some time to hone the cylinders and get to work installing the pistons. The first went great. The second caused way too much effort to turn the engine over. I removed it, struggled with my cheap ring compressor and broke the oil control ring trying to install it. Very ready for this phase of my half-assed rebuild to be over.

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Y’all know my truck works to justify living with me. I’ve been ripping out our old kitchen and just moved to ripping up the old floor. Floor needed to be cut into short sections to fit in my truck. Several trips to my town dump like this over the past few days….
 

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Priapus

Well-known member
Santa brought a lovely package from Turners today containing a new OE piston and set of rings. There is some minor damage on my #4 piston, so this should do nicely. Also picked up a tapered ring compressor that should make this a painless process. I just hope I can find a day in the next week where it’s not 30 degrees outside.

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After several days of sub zero temps, glad to say my truck started first time, so I went out for a drive. Put plenty of miles on him and he’s running great.
 

pmatusov

Technical Excellence Contributor
Callsign: AK6PM
Now's my turn.
First thing to do in the morning was to repair the rear driveshaft for 1:12 scale RC D90.
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The trunnion broke off the cross; miraculously, it was found, put back into the yoke, and attached to the cross with a red-hot sewing needle.
 

pmatusov

Technical Excellence Contributor
Callsign: AK6PM
The D90 was barely 12 hours from an Amazon box, with maybe 2 hours on that driveshaft . The similarities don't end up there - the bumper was crooked from the box:
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All in all, it is the first time in my life when a toy manufacturer captured the essence of not just the vehicle (it is an mind-blowing good off-roader!), but the entire manufacturing environment.
 

Priapus

Well-known member
The D90 was barely 12 hours from an Amazon box, with maybe 2 hours on that driveshaft . The similarities don't end up there - the bumper was crooked from the box:

All in all, it is the first time in my life when a toy manufacturer captured the essence of not just the vehicle (it is an mind-blowing good off-roader!), but the entire manufacturing environment.

Now you just need it to leak oil, coolant, atf and mtl simultaneously.
 

brutus147

Member
Changed the oil and spent way too much time replacing a brake light bulb. It’s been never since I had the rear taillight guards off and broke two of the four 10mm bolts in the process. Hindsight…probably should have tried to pry the lenses off with the guard in place.

Used Liqui Moly 10W-40 this time. When I started pouring, I thought I grabbed the wrong container at first…much darker oil out of the bottle. Seems a little quieter.
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Today, I managed to break my '98 UK Spec Defender. And I absolutely suck at electricity.

The day started simple enough. I'm going through the cooling system, and have all the hoses off and was at a "natural stopping point" as I'm waiting for RN to send me a new water pump, thermostat, et al. So I thought "what else can I do here in the nice warm garage while it's raining outside?"

Remember when I lost tail lights, and we tracked it to a bad ground, and I only have tail lights when the rear door is closed, and sometimes if it's not closed right nothing lights up in back? I thought "now is a good time to put in a good ground." And that's when all hell broke loose.

Rear door card off, I installed a nice Blue Seas bus bar, in the process breaking a 1/16 and 7/64 cobalt drill bits. The 1/16 was from pushing too hard, the other when the door slipped a bit as I was drilling. Bus bar installed, I attached the ground wires from the rear wiper and third brake light to the bar, and then ran a ten gauge wire from the bar to the hinge backing plate (seemed like a good place on the body to ground, and the nut/bolt was right there. Turned on the lights, and... nothing. No tail lights, no brake lights, nothing.

Reset the wires to how things were. Still nothing. I have turn signals and license plate light, the rear fog lamp was working, I didn't check the reverse light, but no tail lights/brake lights.

Checked all fuses. They were good. Started tracing things back, looking for a possibly disconnected wire. Saw an empty "bullet connector", and thought that might be it, but according to my book, purple is "always hot", for dome lights, radio, etc (fuse 2). Pulled the cover plate on the RH side, to see if there was a disconnect behind there, but couldn't see anything. It's a bit hard to work in that space with the jump seat in the way, so I'll probably try and pull the seat tomorrow. What could go wrong? I did find another purple wire coming out of the main feed, but that was very corroded. Will work on that tomorrow too.

Oh, and then I checked things one last time... and now no fog light. Sure, the light on the dash says it's on, but no light. Maybe the bulb just burned while I was working on it?

I'm starting to think it's the ignition barrel. I noticed on the wiring diagram that all lights go through that (ignition needs to be "on" for the lights to work). Noticed last week I had to "wiggle" the key to get the starter to turn. Trying to figure out if I need the whole barrel or can get by with just the switch.

No idea what's going on back there, but I do hate electricity.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'd say keep it simple with ground. Originally, at least on my trucks, the rear lamp grounds were just sheet metal screws under the covers. I put in bulkhead style through bolts and tied in 14awg wire to the cross member below on each side. The top is pretty insulated from the rest of the body, so may not be the best place.

Youll figure it out, good grounds are always a place to start.

I used similar to this...the Lucas bullets are horrible.

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Run a temporary wire from battery - to rear ground location. If that resolves the issue, make it permanent. Defender grounds are the worst. Countless issues could have been prevented over the decades if only LR had not assumed that a body which is largely bolted together would conduct electricity. They should have ran dedicated wires for front and rear grounds, and not terminated them on aluminum panels.
 
Caught up on some maintenance before I head to New Mexico for the ANARC training with I4WDTA. The clutch master started dripping a while ago… so replaced that with new double seal master, same as LOF (second master in 10 years).

Swivel seal was a bit weepy so changed that with Corteco seal. Replaced burnt out incandescent dash bulb with an LED. Minor stuff, but still stuff that needs doing to keep a 25 year old Defender running well.


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SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Run a temporary wire from battery - to rear ground location. If that resolves the issue, make it permanent. Defender grounds are the worst. Countless issues could have been prevented over the decades if only LR had not assumed that a body which is largely bolted together would conduct electricity. They should have ran dedicated wires for front and rear grounds, and not terminated them on aluminum panels.
So, almost fixed.

I went over it step by step... checked for shorts along the way. Turns out, the center high mounted brake light had an issue on the ground wire.

The center mounted brake goes from the top of the door, behind the door card, through a grommet/sleeve at the hinge, and then on to the cover panel in the rear of the tub. The red and black wires are in a sheath, and they "bullet plug" into a Green/Purple wire and a black wire behind the cover panel. I had to remove one of the jump seats (and that was a challenge by itself) to get a good view of things, but it turns out the black wire in the sheath was mostly broken (maybe one strand left. I cut the wires at that spot and used Ancor marine grade spade connectors to splice it together. I wanted to replace the bullet connectors, but the cut wire would have been too short, and I was out of spades. I'll get it next time, because I'm sure there will be a next time.

Then I went on to the fog lights. I checked the bulb, but it was good, so while I was in there I cleaned the socket. I saw intermittent voltage at the socket (and a little bit of a voltage loss), and moved on to the connectors behind the panel. I saw voltage to ground, then went to check "both" sides of the ground bullet connectors. As I pushed things around, the light went on. I'm betting there's a loose wire on the ground side, but I want to understand the system better before I go hacking around. There are a lot of wires in there, and not all make sense to me yet. But I think a bus bar type connector would make much more sense and would be neater.

So I was thinking "job done, and started to put it back together. Panel back in, fog light checked. But the weirdness continues!

Brake lights: Check. Door open or closed.
Taillights: Check, Door open or closed. And I could be wrong, but are they brighter than they used to be?
Headlights on, Brake Lights: Oops. Center Mounted Brake light works. Tail lights go dark. It's like the tail lights give up their energy to feed the center mount. This only happens when the headlights/running lights are ON. Take your foot off the brake, center light goes out, tail lights come on. When the headlights/runnign lights are OFF, the brake lights work as they are supposed to work.

Sounds like another wonky ground.

Parts to finish the cooling system are scheduled for a Tuesday delivery. So we will continue on from there.
 
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